HiPSI

iTrader: (2)

Is your ACIS valve still hooked up using the VSV and vacuum tank?

At the moment I just have mine plumbed to a direct vacuum source but I'm not using the VSV or vacuum tank. With the GTE jdm ecu and being boosted is there any torque advantage to plumbing it correctly with the VSV and tank? Does the JDM GTE ecu know how to control the ACIV?

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

Nope I pulled those because the gte ecu does not trigger the vsv's at the same time the ge ecu does.

I plumbed it directly to a vacuum source.

basically the stock setup is only different that it cuts the vacuum out at idle and lower throttle so you don't get the extra performance = save gas and a little smoother. without the VSV its like 100% performance mode so I wasn't about to figure out how to get the vsv working like stock I rather have the power on tap at all times.

killersqrl

I've got 550's and an igniter on the way, and about to order a 2.5 map sensor to try. If one of you gets a chance can you look at your igniter plug and tell me the part# on it? I'm trying to get one from Toyota but he needs the number from one... And what's a better source for ecu pins than the dealer? Even with a discounted price they are over $5 PER PIN which I think is pretty damn insane.

HiPSI

iTrader: (2)

I have a question for guys here running 15psi plus. Whats the general consensus to making more power? I know that pump gas has it's limitations so I was considering Meth injection. What about E85? The way I understand E85 will make the tune run considerably leaner but what if we had larger injectors to compensate? Is there anyway the stock ecu could adjust for E85? Or is sticking with pump gas / meth injection , or race gas the only viable option to when wanting to run 20psi +?


I finally got my IAT sensor bung welded and mounted in the upper IC pipe. It was just chilling in the engine bay wired in until I could get it welded.

I was previously experiencing an issue where the tune would lean out at idle as I was driving. I'm running 550cc injectors and I'm using a SAFC to compensate the rich difference at idle and throughout the RPM band.

What was happening is that upon cold start the car liked -20% or so pulled out, it would warm up and idle at 14.7:1. Then after driving for a little bit I would notice the idle A/F leaning out slightly to high 15.8:1 or 16:1, and I would richen it up to -15% and it would be right back to 14.7:1.

I believe what was happening is with the sensor laying in the engine bay, not mounted in the IC pipe, it was getting heat soaked and the ECU was compensating based on this high abnormal temperature (Hot summer days). On the way home after getting the IAT mounted in the IC pipe, I noticed that the idle wasn't fluctuating anymore. I pulled the fuel back to -20% across the board and it was perfect. I believe that heat soak was the culprit.

So moral of the story get the IAT mounted properly! It will cause the tune to fluctuate slightly.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

89621-30020 - Igniter (DH61)
90980-11653 - Housing, Connector
82998-12440 - Terminal, Connector (each, you will need at least 9, 10 if you are picky and want to wire up IGf)

the housing and terminals are the same for the DH61 and DS62.

I am not sure how our ecu's cope with full E85 but its theoretically possible with the right injector combo to dial it in ( I have had the same thought). I am not sure about the drive ability without the extra tune in certain loads and not sure if the ecu will dial in the extra advance you can take advantage of on e-85, but at the least you should get the full advance of the pump gas tune without it pulling anything due to knock. this is a complicated thing to try but interesting if someone wanted to take the plunge, just the stock ecu not really sure how much power it will make. On that note I have mixed e85 in with my fuel before and the car boosteed similar to normal. one could also manually add advance in at the distributor but they would have to run e85 all the time.

must have been the heatsoak then, I guess those sensor do need air passing over them I have had mine in the intake pipe so haven't noticed anything.

If your afr's are good and you did the tt headgasket you should be able to get up to the 500hp range or more and 20 psi would probably be close.
You need to ensure your afr's are good as in 12:1 or richer at those psi's I would just go up a few psi at a time and have someone watch it carefully, try like 17-18 first. ans see how it responds.
lots of people do a meth injection setup, its an easy way to extend what you can do on pump, but has its drawbacks. I prefer to just do what I can on pump and if you have to have more then do the meth setup.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

here is where I am with hiding the wire harness that goes over the lower runner... its going slowly but I finally got it under and everything reaching where it needs to go. still need to wrap a few more wires.

taking the intake to get the 90mm flange chopped off for a RMR Q45 flange that I dremeled out to a full 90mm (so my arm will fit through easily). I just cant bring myself to run a mustang throttle body, and I decided not to get the RMR 90mm that would also fit and work with a gte tps ($350), so yeah going with the good old trusty q45 setup again it worked very well for me last time and I have the toyota tps adapter. should work nicely.

Kris9884

iTrader: (7)

The igniter part number is - 89621-41010

HiPSI

iTrader: (2)

I really liked the RMR 90mm throttle body and TPS sensor adapter that I had with my FSMoto FFIM kit. It fit nicely, and the throttle body was short and simple not bulky at all. However this isn't the cheaper option but it did work well.

Are you going to be running a IACV? I'm interested to hear the driveability with a FFIM compared to the stock intake.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

Yeah I thought about getting one and bolting it on but decided I would stick with the q45 for now. I am running a SC400 IACV and having the 2JZ IACV flange welded on the bottom of the intake and I found out the sc400 one also bolts up just fine to that flange so another IACV option with the same flange 7m/1jz/2jz/sc400. Also going to have the intake shortened some compared to the picture, and 3x 1/4" NPT bungs welded on for my vac lines that will be hidden and stuff instead of tapping it on top like I did last time.

The drive ability is great with a FFIM. I have had one on before like in t he 2nd video on the first page. The power comes on at different ranges but the car will drive great as long as you use the toyota tps or wire the nissan one to mimick it I think some people do that, I like the adapter to use the toyota one myself.

Kris9884

iTrader: (7)

^^^ Nice, I like the bay, its less cluttered for sure but also not over the top show car style. Also good find on the IACV, there are so many options now.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

Yeah I decided that if I was to go FFIM again I would get everything down to the last detail this time so I won't have to do it again or pull it soon for the stocker. believe it or not I plan to pass emissions without removing the FFIM. I am going to have a way to bolt on the egr and it will connect to one of the 1/4" npt bungs on the bottom, well at least for a little while every few years =)

aznexus

I'm not running an IACV with my FFIM. From a cold start, you'll need to warm up the engine by pressing on the gas pedal for about 1-2 minutes to get it to idle by itself. If the engine is already warm and you start the engine, you can start the engine without pressing on the gas pedal to get it to idle by itself. All this, of course, is assuming that you've slight cracked open your throttle body valve with the valve stop screw or by adjusting the throttle body cable.

Drivability wise, it drives quite nicely.

For people with an automatic transmission and want to use an RMR throttle body, you can attach the transmission pressure line to the bottom of throttle body pulley (has 24 pre-drilled holes). The radius between the center of the pulley wheel to the barrel hole is exactly the same as the radius on the stock TB AND pressure line pulley. If you're using an Accufab 90mm TB (mine leaked like hell before and after rebuild), you'll have to drill an extra barrel hole on the pulley wheel for the pressure line.

As for people who want to run a XS Power FFIM with a Q45 TB, drilling new screw mount holes on the flange won't help, as the Q45 TB's pulley will hit the flange. Ask me how I know You will need to cut the 90mm Mustang TB flange and weld on a Q45 flange for the pulley to clear. Also, on the XS Power FFIM, you might need to re-tap the flange bolt holes, as mine weren't tapped properly from purchase. I'm guessing XS Power pre-drilled and tapped the bolt holes before welding the flange onto the plenum, warping the bolt holes and threads slightly after welding.

187

are the "Terminal Connectors" required for map sensor or are those only for the igniter?

aznexus

I'm tucking the wire harness underneath the intake runners. Man is my back sore. Also, having a fat arm doesn't help with reaching and taking off the furthest bolt in the FFIM.

I also learned that you have to modify or replace the Y-shaped wire harness cover between the distributor and the left valve cover in order to fit on the TT spark plug cover.

HiPSI

iTrader: (2)

Ya that last bolt or two deepest in the runner i had to have my girl do for me!