Aswilley

iTrader: (1)

Ali, this is all very revealing info we are coming across.. I think the route I'm going none of this matters but it is nice to help and contribute

Buff I am curious as to how much wiring and adding to the harness you will have to do to swap.. I would imagine that this could get excessivly expensive also if a shop is doing it .. probably upwards of $1,000 ... but you never know.. it looks like I'm just going to run a nice BIG ****ING TRANS COOLER and deal with ****y gas milage for now..

I can find TT-auto Trans. all day so maybe us 96+ guys need to budget that into our builds if we want to stay auto..

Look into these guys Buff really high rep and I believe they are direct bolt ons for us http://www.atfspeed.com/store/index....roducts_id=403 .. this is the route I am going eventually bacause I want to stay auto..
These trans.'s are factory TT-Autos Beefed up to handle 900HP .. the Baltic Supra is running this set up now along with some sick 2J swaped 240SX's

incase you want to see what your getting

BuffNStuff

I really don't think it takes much to wire the tt auto in. All you need is the transmission branch of the harness and plug it in, on 1 end and place the pins in the correct spots at the ecu. I didn't want to keep the stock auto anyway because it will blow up. I've decided that for me, fiddling with the stock auto is a waste of time when there is a much better tranny that will work correctly and handle the power I am at. I figure $900 for a trans swap including parts doesn't sound too pricy. The shop said they have them just sitting around with tt torque converters, flex plates, sensors, drive shafts, etc.

aznexus

I finally got my motor running nicely. Next up is to install 2 transmission coolers, install the IACV, and tidy up the engine bay by tucking some wires.

Kris9884

iTrader: (7)

Looks great already, which FFIM and throttle body did you go with?

aznexus

Thanks! It's an XS Power Ebay FFIM with a RMR throttle body with a TPS adaptor. I ran an Accufab throttle body before, but it leaks like crazy. My rpm was at 3,300rpm with the Accufab closed.

aznexus

To everyone drilling their oil pan for the turbo drain line, when I drilled the oil pan for my turbo drain line, I used plenty of grease to catch shavings. I also flushed the oil pan 4 times and then changed the oil filter.

Driving the car after completing the NA-T conversion, I drove for 10km and checked my turbo feed line filter. All clean.

After driving it for 200km, I checked my filter again and saw this:




As careful and meticulous as you may be when drilling the oil pan, I think you're still going to need a filter for the turbo feed line as insurance.


Also, after the engine is fully warmed up (drove for an hour), is it normal for my AFR to fluctuate like this at idle?

BuffNStuff

My AF does the exact same thing. I would bet that if we had AF gauge on our cars when they were stock they would behave the same way. The computer is constantly adjusting to everything it's sensors are telling it so there is always going to be SOME fluctuating. From what I've seen, you really only see a rock steady AF on standalone cars. But again that's just been my experience.

Aswilley

iTrader: (1)

This is exactly why I chose an Inline oil filter for my feed line.. I had a feeling that if you dont drop the pan to do it there is going to be something left over.. I grabbed an Earl's -4 AN In line for almost $50 but WELL WORTH IT IMHO... 50 is a hell of a lot cheaper then a new turbo.. or worse

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

just be sure to clean out the filters periodically as if it gets clogged the turbo is also done. that is a good amount of shavings, I have been driving mine for many many miles and still good over here. I think if you have a ball bearing turbo then those have tighter tolerances and will def not like any shavings.

Its very normal for the AFR to fluctuate from around 14.5 15.2, mine does that slowly all day long also. sometimes its more stable but usually it goes up and down a little.
Its a good sign that it is working in closed loop. also by the rpm and sound of it sounds like its idling perfect really.
This is an older video of mine its a little more unstable but you can see it flipping just like yours.
Half way through I start revving it but before that you can see the back and forth.

myLEXsc400

So something is pretty wrong with my car. This morning it barely started, it took a few cranks, and when it did the idle was dying out so i had to press the gas to get the car to keep idling. it blew out some black smoke when it started finally. The car still runs like crap. i posted bay pics a few posts back, so if anyone knows what can be wrong, please let me know, especially the tps. i'm obdii usdm

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

you didn't say if you know the timing was set right where you heard the sound.

nothing really looks majorly out of place, the tps appears to be in the right way. does moving the tps around make a change? it should stumble from going from that side to the other side. you might have a bad tps if it doesn't you can try that but remember where it was.

the vac hose on the fuel pressure regulator does look pretty bent, I would just bypass the vsv for the fuel pressure regulator for right now to eliminate that you know troubleshooting. just run the vacuum line from the Tee to the regulator skipping the vsv. you can leave the vsv plugged in so you don't get the code for it.

make sure that vacuum cap on the end of the intake where it used to go to the power steering idle up valve is not leaking.

I see the diagnostic connector has not been put back in place, that would make me want to check the other things that should go back in place when changing the intake like all the intake grounds, there are a few in there.

also there was that 96/97 thing where the maf pin could be in the wrong spot. I would double check that as well make sure you have a wire in the right pin, its on the first page.
also on hotwire maf cars sometimes its helpful to clean the maf with the cleaner spray. if its gotten dirty sitting on a shelf or something that can mess with it.

187

@mylexsc400 What timing were you running on that dyno pull you posted?

Also Ali do you know somewhere I can read to understand the limitations of the stock distributor?

edit* also are any of you obd2 guys running without a cat or with? My car has the 02 sensor at the bottom of the down pipe and not on top of the cat.

BuffNStuff

I have a high flow cat. Currently I am getting a code that says my cat is bad. But that's probably because I also have my rear 02 in front of the cat. Don't know why the exhaust shop decided that was a good idea. Doesn't effect how it runs but it's a tad bit annoying lol.

187

Shouldn't it be in front of the cat?

BuffNStuff

On the stock exhaust, the cats are built into the exhaust manifold. They sit in between the front and rear O2 sensors. The rear one is there to check if the cats are still doing their job so it must sit down stream from the cat.