2JZGE Na-T TT Ecu Mod
07-01-14, 08:29 PM
#1846
check the injector connectors and maybe give each one a light tap, quick search of those got me this
http://my.is/forums/f115/note-all-p0...e-saga-327372/
If you think it smells like extra fuel that could be a bad injector or a bad coil or plug.
Definately check the clips on the coilpacks are not broken, they break very very easily.
I would first pull the plugs you can get to and look at them, if they are damaged or gap is blown out or oily etc.. good to check.
http://my.is/forums/f115/note-all-p0...e-saga-327372/
If you think it smells like extra fuel that could be a bad injector or a bad coil or plug.
Definately check the clips on the coilpacks are not broken, they break very very easily.
I would first pull the plugs you can get to and look at them, if they are damaged or gap is blown out or oily etc.. good to check.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 07-01-14 at 08:34 PM.
07-02-14, 06:08 AM
#1847
gte & na-t
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so, it turns out my celebrations of the car running right were short lived. it ran ok without the CEL on for less then a week. I had it dynoed yesterday morning and then parked it, and today in the evening i started it up and the CEL is on again. Just my luck with this effing car. Smells like fuel again. I ran the codes and they are
P0300
P0302
P0303
P0306
So there is a random misfire, and a misfire on cylinders 2,3, and 6.
So idk if this is due to the plugs being fouled (they are the cheap copper ones that were just cleaned last week), or a fuel pressure problem, or a vacuum leak, or maybe my coilpacks or plugs are bad.... Anyone else had these codes and can help me out? This is the second time these codes have come back within a few weeks. My boost gauge would usually read 20 in vacuum during idle, now it reads about 16-17. Idk if this makes a difference
P0300
P0302
P0303
P0306
So there is a random misfire, and a misfire on cylinders 2,3, and 6.
So idk if this is due to the plugs being fouled (they are the cheap copper ones that were just cleaned last week), or a fuel pressure problem, or a vacuum leak, or maybe my coilpacks or plugs are bad.... Anyone else had these codes and can help me out? This is the second time these codes have come back within a few weeks. My boost gauge would usually read 20 in vacuum during idle, now it reads about 16-17. Idk if this makes a difference
Pm me I will help you fix it over the phone I think
should be something easy imo.
07-02-14, 10:47 PM
#1848
Lexus Test Driver
hey guys, so i got the codes scanned at a shop today, and now i have cylinder 5 misfiring along with the random misfire and cylinders 2,3,and 6. cylinder 5 misfire was not showing up yesterday. so i doubt this problem is just because of fouled plugs. However, on the topic of plugs, which ones are recommended for running this mod? I will be replacing them since i need to check the coilpacks anyway. And how should they be gapped? Im looking for best plugs for longevity and performance.
07-03-14, 06:59 AM
#1849
NGK bpr7eix iridium plugs is what Ali recommended. They are one heat range colder than stock which will give you some headway but once you start making upwards of 450-500whp you may need the 8's. They come pre-gapped at .32 I believe and shouldn't need to be gapped lower at your power level.
07-05-14, 07:33 AM
#1850
Hey guys, I was wondering if anyone knew the part number for the ECU Pigtail wires..
At my dealer I have a bin full of wires with female ends and seals ready to be plugged into a connector
So if I knew the part number of the Pigtail Wires I could cross reff. them and not have to buy the 5 I need to Pin into the JDM ECU..
Thanks in advance to anyone that knows
At my dealer I have a bin full of wires with female ends and seals ready to be plugged into a connector
So if I knew the part number of the Pigtail Wires I could cross reff. them and not have to buy the 5 I need to Pin into the JDM ECU..
Thanks in advance to anyone that knows
07-07-14, 02:05 PM
#1851
I don't have the part number, I just got them off a spare harness. driftmotion sells them but I am not sure what the original part number is, likely they just get them from toyota. they are the 40 pin ecu connector pins that match up to the supra. IF you take an ecu pin with you you should be able to tell as they are all different sizes, the ones for the ecu are the smaller ones but not the smallest ones (on some of the body plugs).
On another note, the sc400 IACV fits on the 1jz/2jz idle valve flange perfectly, so another option for an idle valve for FFIM's and that is what I will be using on mine, as Its newer than the 7m stuff and from an SC so it just makes sense. it does have like 3 little coolant nipples on it instead of the 2 the JZ one has (cause its a v8), but I don't hook those up anyways and usually pull them out or grind them off so basically its the same idle valve at that point.
On another note, the sc400 IACV fits on the 1jz/2jz idle valve flange perfectly, so another option for an idle valve for FFIM's and that is what I will be using on mine, as Its newer than the 7m stuff and from an SC so it just makes sense. it does have like 3 little coolant nipples on it instead of the 2 the JZ one has (cause its a v8), but I don't hook those up anyways and usually pull them out or grind them off so basically its the same idle valve at that point.
07-07-14, 08:38 PM
#1852
I don't have the part number, I just got them off a spare harness. driftmotion sells them but I am not sure what the original part number is, likely they just get them from toyota. they are the 40 pin ecu connector pins that match up to the supra. IF you take an ecu pin with you you should be able to tell as they are all different sizes, the ones for the ecu are the smaller ones but not the smallest ones (on some of the body plugs)..
07-08-14, 09:06 AM
#1853
I can take a picture of the ecu pins, but not sure how its going to help it looks like every other female connector pin its just smaller. where in co are you if you send me an envelope I can send you a few pins so you can figure out the part number for us =) I haven't had time to go to toyota and figure it out, last time I went there to get the 2jzgte ignitor connectors and some wire leads and I left with just the connectors cause the wire leads buying them individually was more than what my junk spare harness cost me.
07-08-14, 09:44 AM
#1854
I can take a picture of the ecu pins, but not sure how its going to help it looks like every other female connector pin its just smaller. where in co are you if you send me an envelope I can send you a few pins so you can figure out the part number for us =) I haven't had time to go to toyota and figure it out, last time I went there to get the 2jzgte ignitor connectors and some wire leads and I left with just the connectors cause the wire leads buying them individually was more than what my junk spare harness cost me.
A picture would be awesome and I would be more then happy to send you an envelope. I work for Infiniti but all of our pigtail wires have been interchangeable so far..
I will post Part Numbers of the wires on the Nissan side that I used for my DS62 ignitor and TT MAP Sensor. Litteraly perfect fit so I'm sure I can match the ones for the ECU too.. I think I have them narrowed down to 2 of the almost 20 I can choose from lol.. just wanted to be sure before I posted the prt#
*EDIT*
Here are the pics and Pt.# for the Pigtail Wires that I used for my DS62 Ignitor and m TT MAP Sensor connector.. keep in mind these are from my Infiniti Dealership so you would need to go to Nissan/Infiniti to get these.. I am unsure of cost tho.
Ali the last two pics are what i would need a picture of but for the ECU Side.. as each pin has different designs only one will fit into our ECU Connectors.. once i have them figured out for the ECU i will post pics of those too.
Pt.# for wire pins used for DS62 Ignitor and MAP Connerctor
Bottom of the wire pin
Top of the wire pin
Last edited by Aswilley; 07-08-14 at 02:23 PM. Reason: add pictures
07-15-14, 04:08 PM
#1855
Pole Position
Join Date: May 2012
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So I have decided that I am going to swap out the stock auto with a tt auto to keep the ecu happy. The wiring I did for the lock up converter did not work so my trans is over heating if I go on drives longer than 20 minutes or so. A local shop quoted me $900 to do it including the trans because they have a few laying around from swapping supras to v160s. I'll just have to do the wiring myself. Still can't locate any wiring diagrams for the transmission on a 97 tt. I'll probably just run new wires from the trans to the tt ecu.
I think this is probably the easiest/cheapest route for anyone with an auto obd2 car running the tt ecu mod. The new trans will be able to hold the power level I am at and it is what the ecu wants anyway.
My question is, since one autos shift solenoids are electronically controlled and the other is controlled by line pressure, how to I go about this conversion? Can anyone post a link to a tt auto swap? I searched for quite a bit but came up with next to nothing.
I think this is probably the easiest/cheapest route for anyone with an auto obd2 car running the tt ecu mod. The new trans will be able to hold the power level I am at and it is what the ecu wants anyway.
My question is, since one autos shift solenoids are electronically controlled and the other is controlled by line pressure, how to I go about this conversion? Can anyone post a link to a tt auto swap? I searched for quite a bit but came up with next to nothing.
07-15-14, 05:30 PM
#1856
Pole Position
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Okay so clubNat.com is back up so that helps a lot. Basically the transmission for the tt is electronically controlled and the sc300 auto is line pressure controlled so it sounds like there isn't any complication there since I will just have to wire the tt auto up to the tt ecu and not have to worry about the line pressure part.
how long has clubnat been back up? That was a wealth of information that disappeared for a while.
how long has clubnat been back up? That was a wealth of information that disappeared for a while.
07-16-14, 09:13 AM
#1859
completely forgot about the pins aswilley I will try and get some up later today or tomorrow.
Buff, basically when you do that swap its like when they wire up the transmission side of a gte harness. basically your harness is missing a handfull of extra connectors the gte auto has, for line pressure 1 and the other is the torque converter lockup the wires are there but the solenoid on the GE wants one of the power/ground, and the gte wants the other which is why it doesn;t work right away. I am not so sure you can even swap the GTE one onto the GE, and its obviously better to use a gte auto since your ecu can support it or just manual swap it is what I always say.
So you would have to wire the different auto connectors up manually, or buy a junk gte harness and strip off all the auto wiring from that and put the 2 harnesses together. I am not sure what would be easiest in this case never done it but it should be as easy as plugging it in with the right harness once you make it or get it made. maybe look through Gerrbs wiring thread to see what all is involved with the auto side.
I still think all you obd2 guys should just manual swap and use the manual ecu version. much less to no codes, and much less to no nonsense with wiring that stuff up.
Buff, basically when you do that swap its like when they wire up the transmission side of a gte harness. basically your harness is missing a handfull of extra connectors the gte auto has, for line pressure 1 and the other is the torque converter lockup the wires are there but the solenoid on the GE wants one of the power/ground, and the gte wants the other which is why it doesn;t work right away. I am not so sure you can even swap the GTE one onto the GE, and its obviously better to use a gte auto since your ecu can support it or just manual swap it is what I always say.
So you would have to wire the different auto connectors up manually, or buy a junk gte harness and strip off all the auto wiring from that and put the 2 harnesses together. I am not sure what would be easiest in this case never done it but it should be as easy as plugging it in with the right harness once you make it or get it made. maybe look through Gerrbs wiring thread to see what all is involved with the auto side.
I still think all you obd2 guys should just manual swap and use the manual ecu version. much less to no codes, and much less to no nonsense with wiring that stuff up.
07-16-14, 02:49 PM
#1860
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Just to verify, there doesn't seem to be any advantage to spending the extra $ on a tt jdm 6sp ecu now right? Just grab the aristo (auto) tt ecu and pull that one wire and there's no other downside?