Aswilley

iTrader: (1)

I am going to be running the HKS SSQV IV but I have not started my project just yet so I don't know.. I will stay posting progress, as I am doing one of the first JDM ecu Mod's in an OBDII car..hopefully there is less problems then BuffNStuff had with his USDM ECU and OBDII car..

ashtray

iTrader: (12)

EBay. Just type in "is300 550 cc injectors"

BuffNStuff

No this is incorrect. That was my initial assumption, but I later discovered they changed injector style after 1995 as well. OBDII cars do not have the same lower runner as OBDI cars, AND I believe vvti lower runners are different as well, but I can't confirm because I haven't seen a vvti lower runner.

BuffNStuff

A lot of my problems were only because the shop I originally had doing the work on my car messed quite a few things up. Also, I was treading uncharted waters. Now that the information is here and proven to work, it will be easier for everyone else after me, and a couple of the other original OBDII tt ecu users.

The task may seem daunting, but trust me it's worth it. I am really happy with how it turned out. When my manual boost controller comes in, and I'm boosting 10-11psi, I will be ecstatic. I was dicking around with a cbr600 earlier and he only slowly walked away from me on 5psi. I'd imagine with 11psi, it would have been a pretty close race....all with stock like reliability, driveability, and no need for tuning adjustments every time the weather changes.

Another plus side to this....If you do the work yourself, it is muuuuuuuch cheaper than going standalone, and it will force you to learn more about your car, as well as learning new skills. I didn't know how to solder before this because I've never needed to. Now I am really good at it. Not that soldering is hard in any way, but I got good at making clean connections and hiding them to keep everything in the engine bay looking nice.

HiPSI

iTrader: (2)

If this is the case and your going to be running a MAF, then consider recirculating the BOV to avoid any issues with idle and stalling.

Non maf, MAP driven cars can generally run vented bov's without any ill effects but I still want to make sure that the ECU can control idle well.

I guess if BuffNStuff can get his maf setup to run and idle fine with the Tial, the map setup should be fine.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

Buff, glad you are enjoying it and got it working, its so great when you get to learn it all and do it and save some money. Also you know you didn't take any shortcuts and put everything where its supossed to go. hard to trust alot of shops these days even when they know what to do so yeah glad you knocked it out and can enjoy it now.

For the runners its easy guys 96-97 you have an obd2 lower runner. no exceptions.
If you have a 92-95, then you have an obd1 lower runner. only exception is that maybe some cali models got the obd2 style early.

For visually confirming, on 96-97 there is a giant air hose sticking up out of your lower runner (the one that runs to the throttle body) and that means you automatically have a obd2 lower runner. If you have a black plastic hotwire maf, you will have an obd2 lower runner. basically if you have an obd2 port in your car, you have an obd2 runner. all of these 96-97 cars will have all 3 of these features from factory

If you have a 92-95 that has the metal KVF maf instead of the black plastic one, then you are obd1 obviously, and there won't be a giant air hose sticking out of the runners that goes tot he throttle body either. these cars also will not have an obd2 port in the car. These cars have an obd1 runner and accepts the more common injectors.

So basically look for the large air hose nipple coming off the lower runner because only obd2 runners have this.

So on the upper left between runner 1 and 2 you can see the hose coming straight up in the air. only obd2 runners will have this.

read this about the o-ring. only certain types of obd1 injectors that are shaped similar to the oem ones can get away with using on obd2.
http://www.supraforums.com/forum/sho...728-going-na-t
post 16
"I asked Curt about this years ago and from what we can tell some injectors will fit using the OEM top and bottom lowwer seals (o-rings) and others will not due to incorrect diameter. If you look close there is a normal seal at the very tip of the injector, but under the solenoid itself is another seal."

For the tials that open to atmostphere, this is fine on a map car, it will still run if its cracked open at idle, but you generally want to open it up and shim the spring with washers till its closed at idle. that is what I do to adjust my tials. when its closed at idle, it wont open until you get past like 4 psi or so but thats how its supossed to be no one runs 4 psi just uninstall your turbo and call it a day then if you worry about compressor surge at 4 psi, cause the turbo is not even breaking a sweat it doesn't care.

If you have a maf car and a tial, you must shim that spring to get it to be close at idle or you will have all sorts of issues including cruise. you can also get a stiffer spring, but I found that the next stiffer spring was way too stiff, the one that was just barely cracked open plus one or 2 washers was perfect for me.

also note with these bov's when you change the piping alot or the intake manifold, they usually need to be readjusted unless you originally adjusted on the stiffer side. alot of times I can tell if I have a vacuum leak or some sort of vacuum issue when the bov stops operating like normal, thats how sensitive these are to your base idle vacuum being right you can actually hear when somethings wrong.

you do not have to recirculate these on a maf car, but it may run better. if you make it well closed at idle, that should be a good start. map sensor is doesn't matter that much but the ecu will get confused here and there if its not closed at idle like it expects, but the difference is the map version will still run no matter how open it is, the maf one will shut off because so much unmetered air enters at idle it confuses the ecu.

hopefully thats enough bov info to keep you guys busy on that front for a while =)

ashtray

iTrader: (12)

Thanks Ali. That 100% confirms that I purchased a OBDI lower runner : )

Aswilley

iTrader: (1)

Ashtray.. Have you confirmed or anyone for that matter confirmed that the IS300 injectors will fit OBDII runners.. I thought VVTI were also different.. So I don't want to order a set and then just have them laying around lol..

Ali the post in the suprafourms is all good info but it didn't go into the combinations of what o-rings work with what injectors for OBDII runners .. Not as far as I read anyways. .. From what I got you can use "similar style injectors" and if I was understanding correctly put you stock o-rings on them and they "might" work?

So basically no one has had verified success upgrading their injectors in an OBDII Runner? Or am I reading everything worng.


*edit* BuffNStuff what injector / runner combo are you running.. You are OBDII and need 550's for the USDM ECU

myLEXsc400

Ok guys, so another update on my car. I picked it up from the shop and have been driving it around a bit since the install of the new Tial QR BOV. No more boost leaks, apparently. However, a few issues still:

1. Driving mostly highway (80%), the car is averaging 12.5 MPG and i'm not even boosting too much. mostly cruising. its abysmal
2. Car still hesitates going into boost, and the wideband reads full rich under WOT. (dumping fuel, which would explain the bad mileage i guess)
3. Idles at 1200 rmp cold and warm, and after boosting hard it idles closer to 1500.
4. My new Southbend clutch that was installed less then 300 miles ago might be starting to slip.
5. Tensioner is pinging everytime i let off the throttle

Other then that, it runs ok. Does not shut off. No CEL. But it def smells like fuel a little... Nothing seems to be leaking though. I had the TPS replaced with a new one, i have OBDI lower runner

Here is a pic of the bay:

Anybody know how I can make this thing perfect? It's driving me insane, and I'm a perfectionist

BuffNStuff

I am running obd1 style 550cc injectors from Osidetiger on my stock obd2 lower runners. See my comment on that a few pages back.

The vvti style injectors have not been confirmed to work on our non-vvti obd2 runners yet. They would probably fit better than the obd1 style injectors that I am running, but I am not going that route at this point in time. We need a guinea pig for that.

BuffNStuff

You should not be idling that high. Either your tps is out of adjustment, your idle screw is out of adjustment, or you have a vacuum leak like I did...or a mix of all three. I believe you have a leak because your idle air control should be putting you at the correct idle rpm, and you are smelling fuel. Also, if your idle is going up after a hard pull, check that your lock nut on the idle screw is tight. I had that problem too.

myLEXsc400

ok, how do i do that? i'm fed up bringing the car back and forth from the shop which is an hour away each way. i don't work on cars myself, unless is basic maintenance. is this something fairly easy? pics of what to do would definitely help. i'm sorry if im asking for too much

BuffNStuff

There is a tiny nut on top of the throttlebody linkage. Make sure it's tight. Take a picture of your tps so we can see if it looks like it's in the correct position. To check for leaks, spray carb spray on all areas of the intake manifold and throttlebody that have a vacuum line or gasket. Be careful not to spray on parts that get really hot, or you could lose an eyebrow. Soapy water is supposed to work as well. If there is a leak, you will hear the idle rpm change for a few seconds. I would also double check that all the vacuum lines are routed correctly by following the chart under your hood. Maybe even go get a few feet of vacuum line and replace all the lines just incase. This worked for me. My engine wanted to idle high and hesitate in boost until I did all the things listed above.

This is a project that essentially requires you to do the work yourself just because you will have a better understanding of what is going wrong. Plus, an hour each way? Ouch.

I believe in you! If the tt ecu works in my car, it will work in yours!

myLEXsc400

so, just drove it home from work and the CEL came back on. AGAIN after i was told by the shop it was fixed properly and running perfect. put about 50 miles on the car since driving out of the shop when the light came back on. haven't ran the codes yet

BuffNStuff

Yes post codes please. I'm curious to see if you get the turbine speed sensor circuit code like I did. I still don't know what the heck that is. Never heard of it.