Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

Nice, I would go with the tt plugs which are a 6 range to pair with this mod, or even a 7 if you on the higher power side.
Stock TT is a "BKR6EIX -11" but that one comes gapped at .043 which is doable for low boost but over a bar of boost you may get blowout and want to gap them down to .032.
OR, you could get the "BKR6EIX" plug without the -11 and it comes pre-gapped at .032 and I just drop those in.
above 17-18 psi run a 7 or 8 range plug @ .032 gap or basically a "BKR7EIX" or "BKR8EIX".
you could also use a 7 range around a bar of boost, everyone has their own preference on the heat range subject, the GTE rule of thumb used to be stock to bpu = 6 range, and single or APU was a 7 or 8, but with the na-t crowd running lower boost levels on singles, well because they never had the twins you can run a 6 on a single turbo if you are only boosting a bar, and the plugs will cycle (clean themselves) better.

It has to be sort of close, like If you run an 8 range plug and only ever see 8 psi, you will probably have more plug fouling issues than with the 6 because the plug never gets hot enough to burn the contaminates off of it and eventually fowls itself. you generally want to shoot for the coldest range you can run (to prevent detonation) where the plugs still can get hot enough to clean themselves (to prevent fouling).

yeah it adds up quick I learned that the first time I did it with the tt ignitor, had to get the 2 connectors, all the millions of pins that ignitor has on it, and then wire it all up its literally double the work and the connectors are harder to find unless you buy them at toyota or online.
when you can get the ds62 with a pigtail that is always the best way to go, I just skip over the auctions that don't have the connector with it and I almost always find the best price for those on ebay from junkyards.

aznexus

I finished up wiring everything and finally got the car running. My AEM wideband is currently showing my AFR as 10:1 and blowing out tons of black smoke.

I've triple checked all the wiring to the sensors to the Aristo ECU pins. The only code I'm getting right now is CODE 21 for the O2 sensor.

I've done the following to try to solve the pig rich AFR with no success:
- new 550cc injectors from Osidetiger
- new stock FPR
- replaced the O2 sensor
- swapped in another TT 2.3bar MAP sensor
- new fuel filter
- checked that all my spark plugs were getting spark
- reversed the wiring for the TPS
- checked that my timing belt hasn't jumped any cam teeth

I've narrowed down the problem to a possible faulty Aristo ECU or a possible bad coolant temp sensor. I've ordered another Aristo ECU and coolant temp sensor. If these two items don't fix the pig rich AFR, then it might be a clogged fuel return line.

Any suggestions?

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

if you are getting code 21 thats your issue, with the larger 550's the o2 will need to be working to bring down your afr's. when I start mine up after resetting the ecu with just 440's it runs 12:1 rich until it learns from the sensor, so you aren't that far off or anything, you need to get the o2 sensor working.

aristo only has one pin for o2 sensor, and stock we have 2, so make sure you are using the right signal wire that actually goes to the right pin on the ecu. once you fix the code 21 it should be better, or you will need a fuel controller.

aznexus

I'm currently using a single wire O2 sensor, so I thought the Code 21 wouldn't have caused the 10:1 AFR at idle. I'm pretty sure the car is running much richer than 10:1, as my AEM wideband maxes out at that. I traced the O2 sensor wire that goes directly to the Aristo ECU to avoid using the wrong O2 senor wire.

Maybe I haven't got my unheated O2 sensor hot enough for the ECU to learn. I only start my car for 30-40 seconds at a time. By the 30 second mark, my alley is full of eye-burning smoke and stinks very badly of fuel. Don't want to upset the neighbours.

Should I get a heated O2 sensor to see if it prevents a rich startup?

The car was also running 10:1 AFR when I was running my stock 305cc injectors before the 550cc upgrade.

Thanks!

6SOARER

iTrader: (20)

I got my 500CC's installed on Sunday, I am getting a high pitch electrical noise I thought it was coming from the 500s because I never had that noise with my 660s installed. I called up Osidetiger and asked could it be a faulty injector. They said they never experienced a high electrical noise with their injectors so it had to be some other root cause.

The car is running the same as like I am on the 660s, it still smoking when I accelerate on 1st. I am getting the same break up on high boost but it would be a lil worse on the 660s. When my car is not fully warmed up(bout 5 mins warmed up) for the 2 minutes I drive, it would boost hard. But, when its at operating temperature, it would break up at WOT.

I tried pulling and adding a lil fuel with the Apexi NEO, it didn't change anything, so I have it all zeroed out. How come boost breaks up at full throttle when its warmed up? Any suggestions would be cool

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

code 21 is the main o2 sensor, doesn't have to do with the heater so something is up with the sensor or wiring. if its going to the right pin then it may be the sensor.

If you are using a non heated sensor, and especially after the ecu has been reset or first startups, it takes a few drives for it to learn wont do too much just sitting there for under a minute. once it learns it will happen less on startup in the future even with the non heated sensor. if you let it idle for like 15 minutes maybe it will start to learn then. I have the same wideband it does max out at 10:0 so I get what you are saying on that.

if you were running 10:1 with the stock injectors, then that is definitely a sign of a real problem. I would check the voltage on the map sensor first to make sure its working right, anything out of range there can cause the car to run rich. should be around 2.1-2.4v when the key is on engine off, and with the engine on it should drop down into the 1-2v range. if it does not drop down or is always a higher voltage then that is where your extra fuel is coming from. you can check the caps on the ecu or even for a faulty injector but the chances of 2 sets of injectors having issues is less.

I am assuming it ran right before on the stock ecu with the stock injectors. correct me if I am wrong on that one.

That is a bit odd, different injectors so tend to make different noises but its usually the newer ev14 that click like crazy. high pitch noise not really sure but if they are working it should be fine.
I normally get a high pitched noise when i hook up a timing light but that prob not it.

since you have the neo you can do a bit of troublshooting there. make sure the pressure reading makes sense and varies how it should be like on a boost gauge. its kind of tricky since its normally not in psi but in some other unit like kpa, but you should be able to get a rough idea its working right. it could also be something with the o2 sensor if its a problem just when warmed up, or even the coolant sensor? do you have an iat or did you put a resistor in.

6SOARER

iTrader: (20)

I have a GM IAT sensor hooked up but not mounted, its dangling in the engine bay. I will try disconnecting it to see if it changes. Does it matter how its wired up, polarity wise?

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

nope its just a resistor so no polarity, hanging in the bay should be fine for the most part, but if you used the wrong resistor it can affect the mixture a decent amount.

aznexus

I forgot to mention that my turbo setup is using an FFIM with an Accufab TB and TPS.

When I tested with the stock injectors, I only performed an idle test and let it idle 3 minutes tops until I couldn't bare flooding the alley way with thick smoke. I've ordered a new O2 sensor (heated this time) and will try to get rid of the Code 21. My previous two O2 sensors were the old ones that were in the stock exhaust. The O2 signal wire I'm using right now is the one closer to the front of the car and the wire has transparent insulation showing the copper strands inside. As well, I'll test the OEM MAP sensor with my voltmeter to see if it's reading the correct voltages as per your instruction.

The car ran fine before I converted to turbo, albeit the exhaust smelled of fuel but no sign of smoke.

As for my 550cc injectors, do I need to use a fuel controller to run them with my Aristo ECU?

Once I receive my 2nd Aristo ECU and new O2 sensor, I'll test those out and report back.


Thank you so much!

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

you should be using a toyota tps. an out of range or not set right tps can keep it from going into closed loop right sometimes. shouldn't be as bad as you are describing though. let us know how it goes with those items.

aznexus

Will do! Thank you so much, Ali!

aznexus

Regarding running an FFIM, I'm not running an IACV and left the female connector unplugged. Is this okay?

Also, I deleted the EGR system with a block off plate and just left the female connect unplugged as well.

187

Did anyone confirm that the obd2 keep working properly? I know you mentioned it on the first page just wanted to see if anyone confirmed there were no problems.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

Np.

Yeah it is alright, you may get a code for it but probably not, either way it is not a big deal and won't affect how the motor will run as I had it like that for several months and it ran fine.

as long as you use a odb2 USDM 2jzgte ecu, your odb2 will work properly. there is no need to confirm it all toyota odb2 is the same protocol and its just 1 wire from the ecu to the connector, the other wires are just a power and 2 ground wires.
Tweak one time posted about how he got a jdm 2jzgte aristo motor in a odb2 tacoma with usdm electronics and had everything working like it came that way, and thats much harder than what we are doing because it requires fusion into the body harness, where our body harness is already wired up.
for an odb2 sc300 non vvti, it is a matter of swapping the ecu's and swapping out for a tt maf and installing a map sensor. then you have to do the rest like the coils and the right size fuel injectors but at that point its a odb2 gte as far as the odb2 is concerned. you should even have close to the right amount of o2 sensors and heated as odb2 did all that good stuff even on the n/a

you can even use an odb2 ecu on an odb1 vehicle and gain odb2 functionality. all you have to do is change to the newer maf and add a 12v wire (older maf uses 5v), and then you swap out the ecu's and it will fire right up. to get the odb2 port to work it just requires an odb2 port itself (female) and running the 1 wires and tapping into power and ground. neat right!!

this shows how to wire an odb2 port.
they didn't have to do the maf 12v wire because theirs are turbo and both the turbo odb1 and odb2 have the same 12v hotwire maf, just like a odb2 sc300 does. its only from odb1 n/'a to turbo the maf types changes so we have to swap out the 5v wire for a 12v wire, and thats the only major difference on the engine harness.
on a 2jzgte motor you don't have to do anything they can plug in the odb2 ecu and the vehicle will start and run, so their thread mostly focuses on wiring up the odb2 port, which will be the same for us.

http://www.supraforums.com/forum/sho...2-ECU-Upgrade&

187

Thanks just wanted to see as in my county they have to plug in test the vehicles at each inspection.

In regards to the maf, I thought they were pretty much identical between the two. Is there really a difference?