2JZGE Na-T TT Ecu Mod
12-20-12, 08:09 AM
#811
FINALLY FIXED THAT F***ING SURGING!
After all that work and testing and tweaking and checking, it turns out I have a bad coil or igniter. I went back to my Ford coil setup and ES300 igniter and it runs beautiful. It runs sooooo smooth now. I can't even feel the engine running. The electric fans vibrate more than the engine. FINALLY!!!!
Never did get the OBDI cable to work.
Now I have to fix the truck, my laptop, the latest 2 wheeled addition, and I have been informed that the dryer broke yesterday.
After all that work and testing and tweaking and checking, it turns out I have a bad coil or igniter. I went back to my Ford coil setup and ES300 igniter and it runs beautiful. It runs sooooo smooth now. I can't even feel the engine running. The electric fans vibrate more than the engine. FINALLY!!!!
Never did get the OBDI cable to work.
Now I have to fix the truck, my laptop, the latest 2 wheeled addition, and I have been informed that the dryer broke yesterday.
Toyota's Internally ignited coils work awesome!
No more strut mounted igniter box!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=56JBEYWRdmU
No more strut mounted igniter box!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=56JBEYWRdmU
Hello Club... Noobie here
I have read thru all the pages of this thread---And nice work ! :-) I am still a lil confused on what ECU I should use for my car, And If will even have any benefits at at all...?...
I have a 1996 OB2 Automatic Supra W a 2JZ GE- I have A Custom turbo From a shop in San Bern CA using the crappy XS mani, Thicker HG, ARP studs, 225walbro, Wideband O2, Electric Dual Fans W Derale controller, 10 PSI spring...
I am having issues cuurrently as sometime the car runs great and smooth-Then half the time it runs like crap misfiring all over the place.. throws a CEL saying Random multiple misfire-- But the widebank shows optimal -WTF.?. is this because it is trying to adjust itself? I have also tried removing the boost pipe from throttle body and running an intake filter thru the MAF and still runs like crap with no boost at all... THIS BLOWS!!
I Do Have a new VAFC2 and RC 440's I could use- Id rather sell the VAFC and maybe use this mod to fix the ECU so I can actually run a Turbz and also use the RC 440's...
So do I just need the TT JDM ECU and use the 440's .?.
Or do I have to use the TT USDM ECU and find 550's .?.
From reading the thread- It states that I have to keep the MAF since I have the auto trans.?. Is this correct?
Please help- :-)
I have read thru all the pages of this thread---And nice work ! :-) I am still a lil confused on what ECU I should use for my car, And If will even have any benefits at at all...?...
I have a 1996 OB2 Automatic Supra W a 2JZ GE- I have A Custom turbo From a shop in San Bern CA using the crappy XS mani, Thicker HG, ARP studs, 225walbro, Wideband O2, Electric Dual Fans W Derale controller, 10 PSI spring...
I am having issues cuurrently as sometime the car runs great and smooth-Then half the time it runs like crap misfiring all over the place.. throws a CEL saying Random multiple misfire-- But the widebank shows optimal -WTF.?. is this because it is trying to adjust itself? I have also tried removing the boost pipe from throttle body and running an intake filter thru the MAF and still runs like crap with no boost at all... THIS BLOWS!!
I Do Have a new VAFC2 and RC 440's I could use- Id rather sell the VAFC and maybe use this mod to fix the ECU so I can actually run a Turbz and also use the RC 440's...
So do I just need the TT JDM ECU and use the 440's .?.
Or do I have to use the TT USDM ECU and find 550's .?.
From reading the thread- It states that I have to keep the MAF since I have the auto trans.?. Is this correct?
Please help- :-)
Since you are 96 if you want to keep odb2 working you will need a USDM odb2 GTE ecu, and use some 550's. this setup will run both the gte maf and the gte map sensor since it is USDM.
double check the work you have done it should sound alot cleaner than that.
12-20-12, 09:07 AM
#812
12-20-12, 10:32 AM
#813
Thats for the final round of timing setting. definitely remove the rotor, but its not hurting anything.
I always stand by on the first start with the timing light to make sure when it fires up that its at least less than 10 btdc (8 degrees will be smoother), and if its advanced more than that I immediately retard it down so it is.
you can make the final adjustments later on when it does stay running long enough.
Every tooth you are off on the dizzy is alot of timing advance or retard, and if its advanced your cold motor will not like that at all. a cold motor can tolerate more advance because the fuel does not burn as fast, but the downside is you are more likely to damage stuff on a cold motor, so never take the risk.
get it in the ballpark cold, and then when it can warm up set it in. if you make any changes elsewhere, its always a good idea to verify your timing again at the end, especially with a belt driven cam/crank sensor.
If I had to guess what your issue is (which I have been doing alot lately and getting better and better at it), I would say that your map sensor has something to do with it.
reason is that it does rev sort of clean when you throttle it, but it is having trouble keeping an idle, you can hear it moving the iacv open and closed trying to haul it in but its not getting anywhere. I dont think the ecu is seeing the right load, but thats just a guess you could have just miswired something as well.
he was asking where your map sensor was plugged into not mounted. like which port on the intake are you using?
I always stand by on the first start with the timing light to make sure when it fires up that its at least less than 10 btdc (8 degrees will be smoother), and if its advanced more than that I immediately retard it down so it is.
you can make the final adjustments later on when it does stay running long enough.
Every tooth you are off on the dizzy is alot of timing advance or retard, and if its advanced your cold motor will not like that at all. a cold motor can tolerate more advance because the fuel does not burn as fast, but the downside is you are more likely to damage stuff on a cold motor, so never take the risk.
get it in the ballpark cold, and then when it can warm up set it in. if you make any changes elsewhere, its always a good idea to verify your timing again at the end, especially with a belt driven cam/crank sensor.
If I had to guess what your issue is (which I have been doing alot lately and getting better and better at it), I would say that your map sensor has something to do with it.
reason is that it does rev sort of clean when you throttle it, but it is having trouble keeping an idle, you can hear it moving the iacv open and closed trying to haul it in but its not getting anywhere. I dont think the ecu is seeing the right load, but thats just a guess you could have just miswired something as well.
he was asking where your map sensor was plugged into not mounted. like which port on the intake are you using?
Last edited by Ali SC3; 12-20-12 at 10:41 AM.
12-20-12, 10:58 AM
#815
12-20-12, 05:19 PM
#817
well IAT is installed and still have a dumping gas issue. It would start first crank and run for some seconds and choke out. how did you guys wire your 7mgte resistor boxes? in random pairs or as per 7m specs?
12-20-12, 09:14 PM
#822
i have a 97sc300 stock motor for right now
I got a 97 TT 6 speed ecu
I will need VVTI coilpacks and igniter
Question. Can I used a lexus AFM? IF so which one can I use and do you have the part number. I have plenty of Lexus afm so I would like to use an lexus afm since I already have them. Bad thing I didn't mark which one for what model car I pulled it out of.
I got a 97 TT 6 speed ecu
I will need VVTI coilpacks and igniter
Question. Can I used a lexus AFM? IF so which one can I use and do you have the part number. I have plenty of Lexus afm so I would like to use an lexus afm since I already have them. Bad thing I didn't mark which one for what model car I pulled it out of.
12-21-12, 05:50 AM
#823
7mgte is 3, 3 ohm resistors.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...ox-wiring.html
I am currently using the 7mgte resistor box wired in parallel.
12-21-12, 09:23 AM
#825
You bypassed the wrong resistor, or didn't hook up the black wire off the igniter to the tach signal wire - or you jacked up your cluster.[/QUOTE]
You either have a broken timing light, or that coil isn't really sparking unless you didn't connect your timing light correctly.
You either have a broken timing light, or that coil isn't really sparking unless you didn't connect your timing light correctly.