2JZGE Na-T TT Ecu Mod
09-19-12, 07:53 AM
#466
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Hey i got. A noob question if the map sensor a direct replacement of maf so where would i put the map and iat when I have all the ic piping and stuff installed?
Also any pics of installed map and iat I'm slowly building my kit
Also any pics of installed map and iat I'm slowly building my kit
09-19-12, 08:12 AM
#467
Haha. Definitely a noob question. We have all been there though. The MAP is a pressure sensor. You just hook it to a vacuum line on the intake. I made a new port for mine just to make sure it gets a good reading. Replace the MAF with intercooler pipe or leave it there, but it will restrict flow - no big deal.
Last edited by ishootstuf; 09-19-12 at 02:26 PM.
09-19-12, 08:29 AM
#469
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Haha. Definitely a noob question. We have all been there though The MAP is a pressure sensor. You just hook it to a vacuum line on the intake. I made a new port for mine just to make sure it gets a good reading. Replace the MAF with intercooler pipe or leave it there, but it will restrict flow - no big deal.
09-19-12, 08:31 AM
#470
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09-19-12, 09:10 AM
#471
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ait sensor goes on your intercooler piping before the TB, you have to buy the gm ait sensor it's about $35 with the pigtail.
On the ge (non turbo) car the iat sensor and map sensor is part of the maf sensor, so you take the maf sensor wires to rewire your map and ait sensor.
On the ge (non turbo) car the iat sensor and map sensor is part of the maf sensor, so you take the maf sensor wires to rewire your map and ait sensor.
09-19-12, 09:41 AM
#472
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ait sensor goes on your intercooler piping before the TB, you have to buy the gm ait sensor it's about $35 with the pigtail.
On the ge (non turbo) car the iat sensor and map sensor is part of the maf sensor, so you take the maf sensor wires to rewire your map and ait sensor.
On the ge (non turbo) car the iat sensor and map sensor is part of the maf sensor, so you take the maf sensor wires to rewire your map and ait sensor.
09-19-12, 11:33 AM
#473
Yeah normally the maf reads airflow and temperature (which is why it has so many wires), but since you are getting rid of the maf, we have to use those wires to run a seperate map sensor and IAT sensor.
map sensor you want to be as close to the intake as possible, IAT you want anywhere after your intercooler, and before your throttle body. If you make the MAP and IAT wires really long it will help you mount them in the right places later.
map sensor you want to be as close to the intake as possible, IAT you want anywhere after your intercooler, and before your throttle body. If you make the MAP and IAT wires really long it will help you mount them in the right places later.
09-19-12, 02:31 PM
#474
If you don't care about your old Karman MAF, you can extract the thermistor component out of it for a functioning AIT like I did in post 429 here. I then drilled and tapped mounting holes and a hole for the sensing part to go into the intercooler pipe and sealed it with an O-Ring. Best to just buy a sensor, but I like to experiment.
09-20-12, 04:56 AM
#475
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If you don't care about your old Karman MAF, you can extract the thermistor component out of it for a functioning AIT like I did in post 429 here. I then drilled and tapped mounting holes and a hole for the sensing part to go into the intercooler pipe and sealed it with an O-Ring. Best to just buy a sensor, but I like to experiment.
Get the hell out I might mess with that too with my spare I got laying around...I too like to experiment its the only way you learn New ****, right?
I keep trolling the truck junkyard near my house for a turbo I can make work,I wanna start digging into my 2jz already smh
09-20-12, 07:42 PM
#476
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which vacuum line is best for the MAP sensor. i read earlier that you shouldn't tee it so that means unplugging some vacuum line from the intake to use, but which one? Like in Ali's post #285 page 19..where and what is that?
on a side note i get my car running with downpipe and o2 installed and just put the IAT into the IC pipe. my braking issue was a vacuum line that came loose put that back in and we good. now im just running crazy rich still and will have to fill the tank up using a bunch of gas cans since i dont like driving the car while shooting flames out of the bottom.
and previous owner did something when he installed an auto start on it i believe so i cant use the diagnostic jumper to check my codes since the red "!" is always on but my check engine light comes on now.
on a side note i get my car running with downpipe and o2 installed and just put the IAT into the IC pipe. my braking issue was a vacuum line that came loose put that back in and we good. now im just running crazy rich still and will have to fill the tank up using a bunch of gas cans since i dont like driving the car while shooting flames out of the bottom.
and previous owner did something when he installed an auto start on it i believe so i cant use the diagnostic jumper to check my codes since the red "!" is always on but my check engine light comes on now.
Last edited by briggs33; 09-20-12 at 07:52 PM.
09-20-12, 08:49 PM
#477
there are a couple of vacuum lines coming off the intake in the back near the brake booster area.
just remove one and T that one into another line, then you have a dedicated line for your map.
if you have a boost gauge you can put T it on that line temporarily just to make sure it sees full vac, but if it starts and runs good you probably have a good spot. I like to use a zip tie on the map line, so it doesn't pop off under boost. don't use a clamp you may crush the plastic part on the map sensor.
the stock o2 takes a minute or two to warm up unless you put a heated one in. It wil probably bring it down some but I don't know if just the o2 will bring it down all the way.
have no idea with the auto start, which light is the red "!" for anyways I cannot even remember.
just remove one and T that one into another line, then you have a dedicated line for your map.
if you have a boost gauge you can put T it on that line temporarily just to make sure it sees full vac, but if it starts and runs good you probably have a good spot. I like to use a zip tie on the map line, so it doesn't pop off under boost. don't use a clamp you may crush the plastic part on the map sensor.
the stock o2 takes a minute or two to warm up unless you put a heated one in. It wil probably bring it down some but I don't know if just the o2 will bring it down all the way.
have no idea with the auto start, which light is the red "!" for anyways I cannot even remember.
09-21-12, 07:55 AM
#478
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Yea my car still runs kinda rich also and gas mileage is
Noticeable but not terrible I'm running around 12 ish sometimes it will creep into the 13's not sure why it does that tho I'm looking for 14.7 out of boost haha then I might consider traveling
Noticeable but not terrible I'm running around 12 ish sometimes it will creep into the 13's not sure why it does that tho I'm looking for 14.7 out of boost haha then I might consider traveling
09-21-12, 08:19 AM
#479
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Hey guys sorry I Kno this is off topic but I've searched and searched and can't find the answer to this simple question I've just installed my aftermarket steering wheel and I'm not sure if I'm supposed to remove the black peice with yellow stickers because it looks quite tacky sitting there not to mention my dust over won't fit over it any help would be great...
09-21-12, 03:37 PM
#480
OK, got the VVT-i coils on last night. For anyone wondering, yes, the 6 channel ES300 igniter works. You just have to tie the leads for 1&6, 3&4, 2&5 together on the side that triggers the coils. I was a little worried that this would cook the igniter or give an incorrect IGF signal, but it seems happy.
I still have some issue to work out because the car is slower now at 18 PSI than it was at 9.5 PSI on the GE ECU. Maybe I had more advance? I set it at 10 BTDC with the TE1 terminal jumped. At full boost my AFR is around 10-11, so maybe my injectors are a little lazy because of the wacky resistor thing. Oh well, at least there's no more Ford parts installed - unless you count the heated o2, but that's really Bosch.
I still have some issue to work out because the car is slower now at 18 PSI than it was at 9.5 PSI on the GE ECU. Maybe I had more advance? I set it at 10 BTDC with the TE1 terminal jumped. At full boost my AFR is around 10-11, so maybe my injectors are a little lazy because of the wacky resistor thing. Oh well, at least there's no more Ford parts installed - unless you count the heated o2, but that's really Bosch.