mrnova

The map sensor is coming from its own port on the new intake manifold. As is the FPR. On the top towards the back of the plenum.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

are you throwing any codes right now? code 31? shouldn't have to floor it to keep it idling unless the map sensor is bad or getting the wrong signals. sounds like a bad map sensor it seems to be pretty common. maybe see if the voltage on the map sensor output changes, check at key on engine off, and key on engine on if it wont stay running just have someone else start it while reading the voltage.

mrnova

I installed VVTi coil packs to cut out the weak links. The car started and idles with no issue. I adjusted the timing a little with the distributor and now it seems like it doesnt want to rev at times. Theres a good bit of smoke coming from the new turbo. I know I spilled some oil on it while priming it. hopefully it burns off. Codes 21(O2 sensor) and 31(MAP). Thanks for your help!!! I owe u a steak

zedsport

i need some help, ive been told that an iat sensor isnt completely necessary. how will my car run without one? its a track car so not too worried about fuel efficiency or emissions

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

it doesn't adjust for air temp then, you will need to put in a resistor to simulate a normal operating temp so it doesn't act too funny.

SCereal

iTrader: (4)

I can't see how a speed density system could possibly be expected to run properly without IAT. Ideal gas law has temperature as one of its core values and that's what a speed density ECU relies on. You say track car and to me that means max performance. You want your engine to run right, put an IAT sensor in otherwise it will only run right when the temperature equals whatever the resister value correlates to.

Aswilley

iTrader: (1)

I got it all figured out guys.. I was blowing the EFI fuse because the stock 97 SC ECU gets a B+ signal at pin A23.. The Aristo ECU gets this also, but, when you turn the steering wheel, the stock harness sends a signal there an it closes a switch (power steering pressure switch) and shorts it to ground causing the EFI power circuit to short.

So I did like Ali said and disconnected the Solinoid and pressure switch at the Rack.. The pressure switch shares the same Black and Red power wire as the EFI circuit...

So now, no more fuse blowing 😁

Now it's time to take a guess what power it is making at 10 psi and who wants to guess how long the stock trans lasts at this power..

I am going to say between 320hp and 360hp

SCereal

iTrader: (4)

That's some good detective work. Bound to save someone a few grey hairs.

zedsport

cheers man! i guess you're right!

joe diego

iTrader: (3)

Good stuff!

So that's it... The OBD II tt ecu mod could be done now, headache free?

If that's the case, I'm gonna get another SC.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

he is using a JDM gte ecu, so while it can be done on the 96 or 97 with it running well it would not pass emissions.
Aswilley that is great news on the fuse, figured it was some extra feature on the rack. pulling plug is an easy fix so good to hear.
im going to guess 335hp just cause turbo!

Aswilley

iTrader: (1)

Ali is correct, I am emissions exempt so I am using a JDM Aristo ECU on an OBDII car..


Im betting your right, cuase it pulls pretty hard for only 10 psi. But I am still babying it tho cause its factory auto for now. Shifts fine it seems and the cooler is surely doing justice because the tunnel doesn't even get hot, and it was 84°F yesterday.. Still need to plug in the trans temp gauge and see what is actually going on but having trouble finding an adapter that will work on the pressure port

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

sounds like its doing better than mine right now lol. since I went to the 550's I haven't gotten the map ecu programmed right yet. last time I had it out it was way rich and giving some nice backfires, but driving well.

with my luck I tweaked the map ecu map some, went to try it out, and blew the circuit breaker for my relocated battery. normally its a quick reset but its actually completely shot now.

first 2 circuit breakers had broken the on button so it was physically impossible to reset, now this one from a different brand blew completely...decided I am done with those crappy circuit breakers, I don't trust them anymore and I read that they are actually designed badly inside and are even dangerous, might explain why I can get one to pop even though its supossed to reset.

I am going to oldschool ANL fuses and a ANL fuse holder. never tried them but after some research its what all the people who know what they are doing seem to use. no fancy stuff or voltage drops, and they don't blow out as much as the round glass AGL fuses do that they use on audio stuff.

now just have to wait for the fuseholder to come in so I can tweak my tune and raise the boost getting really tired of low boost since I was used to much more in the same car.

187

Found a pretty sizable leak at the egr using an empty paint can filled with incense and some vacuum tubing.

I'll be getting rid of that asap after I find what to do with the vacuum lines.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

egr is one of those things that should go far far away. they often create boost leaks if they are not working right. even when working right its still a pretty terrible system.