Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

you can use a resistor instead but it might be better to have a temp probe on there, not sure really some people do it one way some do it the other but no one seems to have problems from it.

187

I figured I would just wire it since its only 2 wires, plus where I live the temperature varies significantly with the seasons. Hopefully I will be able to thread it into the IC piping, i'll have to try it out on a test piece.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

you can't thread well into that round of piping generally speaking, and when i tried to do it there was a leak. that is why my intake temp sensor ended up in the turbo intake pipe cause its convenient and no boost there. it still varies enough for the stock ecu, but ideally you could take off an IC pipe and get a bung welded on for it or a few other ways to do it.

187

hhhm,

So maybe I would have more luck with the intake then. I need to find someone who can weld aluminum for another piece. How much of a difference will it really make? I figure if it's adjusted properly and not getting heat soaked it shouldn't make to much of a difference.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

I noticed really no difference from where it was located as long as you have one, the stock ecu is not that sensitive to intake temps unless its way cold or way hot. this is why alot just use a resistor that shows running temp but then you get maybe a startup issue, but in the intake its cold when you start and warm when running so it works just fine, well on mine anyways. I figure its better than a resistor. back in the day they used to leave them hanging in the engine bay, but if you can put it in the intake where some air is passing over it that is better so it doesn't heatsoak.

187

So got it up and running. First off 100% resolved the stalling issue . I haven't finished buttoning up the install but I had to play around with the tps again to make it driveable since I really need gas. Once I properly put it all back together and set the tps I'll put up some pictures or a video if anyone is interested.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

that is great news hopefully we got this solved now once and for all just get a vpc or map ecu for US ecu's.

187

Yeah finally lol.

Just to double check what is your recommendation with setting the tps.

The last two times I adjusted it it ran great after playing with it but after a I go back a week later it would go back to high idle. Basically what I have now is the air screw pretty much all the way out and the screw by the throttle cable all the way in. Then I had to adjust the tps by hand while it was running.

It seems like it will work well enough so I can go get gas but it seems especially sensitive recently.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

what I think is happening is you are setting the tps too close to the crossing point, so small fluctuations in temperature etc.. cause the ecu to see times where the idl continuity goes off, but its still idling.
I like to set it a few mm back from where you have it, as in you want the tps voltage to read a little lower.

it will take a slightly more of a turn for it to come off idl continuity when revving, but the ecu can actually learn that part and be alright.
what it has trouble with is when it looses continuity too fast at times it will not even get continuity.

sometimes when people set it too close, its fine for a while but a little carbon buildup or if someone adjusts the cable a little tighter can cause it to be wrong.
its good to leave a little fudging room in there despite whatever the manual recommends, to this day I have never set the tps according to the book all it does is mess things up.

187

So which would you recommend,

set the tps voltage then adjust the air screw until it runs correctly

or

Leave the air screw out and try to set the tps by hand

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

where you had the screws sounded right. the ones under the throttle cable should be turned in majority of the way, the cable should have a tiny amount of slack so its not holding the arm from resting on the screw, and the idle air screw on the top with the locking nut, that should be backed out most of the way and locked down, you should not remove it completely.

If the throttle arm is resting on the screw under it still, you did it right, because if you were to turn in the idle air screw it would slowly open the throttle plate and lift the arm off the screw it is resting on.

basically leave the screws where they are if they are like described above, and loosen the tps screws just enough to turn it a hair in the direction that lowers the voltage, and tighten the screws back down. try not to loose the tps position you are in right now by making small adjustments or you will be starting over.

the tps is the last thing that is adjusted, always. all the other things move the arms that the tps is attached to, so you cannot set the tps first, that would be wrong unless your setup was 100% stock then it would maybe work.

187

Alright I'll have to check the spacing on everything and try and fine tune the tps as best I can.

I wish I had the vpc off the start so we didn't have to keep bringing this up.

On a side note though I was thinking if you do this mod now with the vpc and you buy that jumper harness or whatever they call it. It would make the whole mod soooooo much easier.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

that is what mk4 owners normally have to do as far as my research went. I recommend to everyone with the US ecu to do some reading on supraforums these issues are very specific to the US ecu and single turbo or APU mods. A vpc is nice to have as you wont need the tt maf and it cleans the bay up. map ecu does similar but vpc is much more common on SF.

187

So just to follow up a little with the vpc. It seems to be doing its job, the only thing that seems a little weird is when your coasting full lean it feels like its hesitating at times. The idle afr swings up and down at warm idle but it seems to be in a normal range.

I got a CEL from one of the vsv's I need to fix any some other stuff but it seems alright. I'm pretty sure it's that pin 60 again, not sure if I should add more resistance in line or add resistance and ground it.

is300turb0

hey I have a 02 IS300 na-t I want to do the tt ecu mod but his instructions look like they were for a non vvti can someone help me find out what to do? Also, is it worth it? Will the aristo ecu stop fighting me.