2JZGE Na-T TT Ecu Mod
#2000
Final N/A mode running on the GTE ECU= Flawless!
Thanks once again to ALI SC3!!!!
Spoolxexo 2jzge 95 sc300 NA TT ECU mod - YouTube
Thanks once again to ALI SC3!!!!
Spoolxexo 2jzge 95 sc300 NA TT ECU mod - YouTube
#2001
ok, so the tps and timing are set as close to perfect as possible. However, I talked to the mechanic and had him drive it, and he says the idle is much better, there is no misfire, no CELs, only thing is at 4k when the boost really starts to kick in, the computer starts dumping fuel like its saving the motor from detonation.
#2002
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im finally getting some more time on doing this mod with my car, and had a few questions as im not very savvy when it comes to wiring (or cars in general).
my first question is about the TPS...when i check the tps at idle posistion (with car off) what should my multi meter read? and what pins are the correct ones to check...i have ffim with tps adapter.
my next question is about the DS62 igniter which im wiring now. the diagram in post #1 shows 4 wires, my actual old plug has 5 wires. also the colors are different, see pic below. If someone could let me know which 4 are the ones i need and what to do with the fifth thatd be awesome.
my last question is about the ECU pins, i have those wired in but im looking at the SC300 wire diagram from the factory manual; and the numbers are wrong and the view is opposite/backward, so i think im confusing myself there and hoping that is wired correctly.
everything else is wired/ready to go so as soon as i get the tps/igniter right she'll be ready to fire up.
4 wire diagram vs 5 wire plug (color differs too)
my first question is about the TPS...when i check the tps at idle posistion (with car off) what should my multi meter read? and what pins are the correct ones to check...i have ffim with tps adapter.
my next question is about the DS62 igniter which im wiring now. the diagram in post #1 shows 4 wires, my actual old plug has 5 wires. also the colors are different, see pic below. If someone could let me know which 4 are the ones i need and what to do with the fifth thatd be awesome.
my last question is about the ECU pins, i have those wired in but im looking at the SC300 wire diagram from the factory manual; and the numbers are wrong and the view is opposite/backward, so i think im confusing myself there and hoping that is wired correctly.
everything else is wired/ready to go so as soon as i get the tps/igniter right she'll be ready to fire up.
4 wire diagram vs 5 wire plug (color differs too)
#2003
ok, so the tps and timing are set as close to perfect as possible. However, I talked to the mechanic and had him drive it, and he says the idle is much better, there is no misfire, no CELs, only thing is at 4k when the boost really starts to kick in, the computer starts dumping fuel like its saving the motor from detonation. He says it runs great up until then but when it hits 4k it starts to break up and the boost is creeping and spiking and he thinks that has a alot to with the ecu pulling timing and throwing more gas but besides that, overall the car runs so much better than before and there is no CELs so only thing he can recommend is the 7mgte cam angle and piggy back to pull back on the fuel past 4k cause from what he was reading alot of folks that have this setup seem to benefit alot from the 7m cam angle, it speaks to the tt ecu better than the stock GE on i have.
This is the problem I have been having with the car the whole year, and just can't seem to figure out what the hell is going on that it hestitates so much going into boost. Literally everything has been checked, and re-checked, and the car still runs like crap
This is the problem I have been having with the car the whole year, and just can't seem to figure out what the hell is going on that it hestitates so much going into boost. Literally everything has been checked, and re-checked, and the car still runs like crap
it could be but likely something is just setup wrong if it runs around right out of boost.
Final N/A mode running on the GTE ECU= Flawless!
Thanks once again to ALI SC3!!!!
Spoolxexo 2jzge 95 sc300 NA TT ECU mod - YouTube
Thanks once again to ALI SC3!!!!
Spoolxexo 2jzge 95 sc300 NA TT ECU mod - YouTube
im finally getting some more time on doing this mod with my car, and had a few questions as im not very savvy when it comes to wiring (or cars in general).
my first question is about the TPS...when i check the tps at idle posistion (with car off) what should my multi meter read? and what pins are the correct ones to check...i have ffim with tps adapter.
my next question is about the DS62 igniter which im wiring now. the diagram in post #1 shows 4 wires, my actual old plug has 5 wires. also the colors are different, see pic below. If someone could let me know which 4 are the ones i need and what to do with the fifth thatd be awesome.
my last question is about the ECU pins, i have those wired in but im looking at the SC300 wire diagram from the factory manual; and the numbers are wrong and the view is opposite/backward, so i think im confusing myself there and hoping that is wired correctly.
everything else is wired/ready to go so as soon as i get the tps/igniter right she'll be ready to fire up.
4 wire diagram vs 5 wire plug (color differs too)
my first question is about the TPS...when i check the tps at idle posistion (with car off) what should my multi meter read? and what pins are the correct ones to check...i have ffim with tps adapter.
my next question is about the DS62 igniter which im wiring now. the diagram in post #1 shows 4 wires, my actual old plug has 5 wires. also the colors are different, see pic below. If someone could let me know which 4 are the ones i need and what to do with the fifth thatd be awesome.
my last question is about the ECU pins, i have those wired in but im looking at the SC300 wire diagram from the factory manual; and the numbers are wrong and the view is opposite/backward, so i think im confusing myself there and hoping that is wired correctly.
everything else is wired/ready to go so as soon as i get the tps/igniter right she'll be ready to fire up.
4 wire diagram vs 5 wire plug (color differs too)
not sure about the colors will check on them later. what year is yours? if its 92-95 it should be like posted.
#2004
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its a 1992, I updated the pic here to include the colors of the 5 wires i have. im not sure which is the IGT; the white/yellow or the blue/yellow; in your diagram IGT is black/yellow.
im reading and re-reading the section on igniter wiring but its still cloudy; this is what i dont want to screw up. sorry for the inconvenience and thanks for the help! heres the part on igniter from post #1 so you dont have to go back/forth...
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
general guideline of what to do for the ignitor wiring:
First remove all the pins/wires out from the old ignitor plug, and then insert them into the new ds62 ignitor plug as shown in the diagram, this includes +B, tach, IGT1, IGF.
you only run 2 new wires from the ecu and that is IGT2 and IGT3.
Then you add a ground wire and ground it to chassis ground or even battery ground.
For the 4 wires to the coils, you run the 3 signal wires (coils 1-3) to the new coils, and for the +B for the coil you have to splice off the +B wire you just moved over from the old ignitor.
The old coil wire that goes from the stock ignitor to the stock coil is not shown in the diagram above because normally its not used as it goes to the wrong place, but its the 5th wire connected to the old ignitor that's not the 4 shown above. If you were to rewire your harness you could potentially move and reuse this wire, but its easier to just forget about it, and get a mk3 coilpack harness and extend those 4 wires from the coils to the ignitor, as it already has the right clips on it and everything, its just short some.
im reading and re-reading the section on igniter wiring but its still cloudy; this is what i dont want to screw up. sorry for the inconvenience and thanks for the help! heres the part on igniter from post #1 so you dont have to go back/forth...
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
general guideline of what to do for the ignitor wiring:
First remove all the pins/wires out from the old ignitor plug, and then insert them into the new ds62 ignitor plug as shown in the diagram, this includes +B, tach, IGT1, IGF.
you only run 2 new wires from the ecu and that is IGT2 and IGT3.
Then you add a ground wire and ground it to chassis ground or even battery ground.
For the 4 wires to the coils, you run the 3 signal wires (coils 1-3) to the new coils, and for the +B for the coil you have to splice off the +B wire you just moved over from the old ignitor.
The old coil wire that goes from the stock ignitor to the stock coil is not shown in the diagram above because normally its not used as it goes to the wrong place, but its the 5th wire connected to the old ignitor that's not the 4 shown above. If you were to rewire your harness you could potentially move and reuse this wire, but its easier to just forget about it, and get a mk3 coilpack harness and extend those 4 wires from the coils to the ignitor, as it already has the right clips on it and everything, its just short some.
#2005
Lexus Test Driver
sounds like its running just fine and there is maybe some sort of boost leak that messes with the ecu up top. generally the ecu does dump fuel and pull timing in boost. what makes him think its not normal? creeping and spiking has to do with the wastegate not the ecu at all. If there is spiking and stuff like that going on then the ecu can get confused. the boost should not creep or spike. do not use a 7m cam angle sensor with this ecu, also do not pull fuel with a safc. who is your mechanic lol.
it could be but likely something is just setup wrong if it runs around right out of boost.
it could be but likely something is just setup wrong if it runs around right out of boost.
The car is at the 3rd shop already, beacuse the last two couldnt figure out why its not running right. Ali, how about I fly you to Chicago to see if maybe you can diagnose it?
#2007
its a 1992, I updated the pic here to include the colors of the 5 wires i have. im not sure which is the IGT; the white/yellow or the blue/yellow; in your diagram IGT is black/yellow.
im reading and re-reading the section on igniter wiring but its still cloudy; this is what i dont want to screw up. sorry for the inconvenience and thanks for the help! heres the part on igniter from post #1 so you dont have to go back/forth...
im reading and re-reading the section on igniter wiring but its still cloudy; this is what i dont want to screw up. sorry for the inconvenience and thanks for the help! heres the part on igniter from post #1 so you dont have to go back/forth...
I had the car boost leak tested like 4 times in the last couple months. Its not leaking boost from anywhere as far as I know. So do you think that maybe my wastegate is breaking? Also, i just realized that the car never went past 10psi when I had my old Greddy BOV. Might the fact i switched to a Tial one have anything to do with it, or no?
The car is at the 3rd shop already, beacuse the last two couldnt figure out why its not running right. Ali, how about I fly you to Chicago to see if maybe you can diagnose it?
The car is at the 3rd shop already, beacuse the last two couldnt figure out why its not running right. Ali, how about I fly you to Chicago to see if maybe you can diagnose it?
you keep saying the tps and timing are perfect but do you hear the change in the motor when you put in the jumper. just answer this one question before we keep going forward.
#2008
well the new intake is on and done for the most part, still have to tuck a few vac lines by the firewall that are ziptied in the pic.
This intake has the pcv and evap hooked up still through a large vacuum block under the intake, even the egr has a place to be added.
It pulls really well and idles perfect at 650rpm with the sc400 IACV on the bottom., this time I got all the details sorted out.
also got the front valve cover plastic from a supra and took the 3000 sticker off.
I think it looks good let me know what you think other option is I use the lexus one and paint it black and leave the logo chrome.
Now I can get one of those TRD strut tower braces, a BW36x and 3" intercooler piping to match =)
Pics.. enjoy!!
This intake has the pcv and evap hooked up still through a large vacuum block under the intake, even the egr has a place to be added.
It pulls really well and idles perfect at 650rpm with the sc400 IACV on the bottom., this time I got all the details sorted out.
also got the front valve cover plastic from a supra and took the 3000 sticker off.
I think it looks good let me know what you think other option is I use the lexus one and paint it black and leave the logo chrome.
Now I can get one of those TRD strut tower braces, a BW36x and 3" intercooler piping to match =)
Pics.. enjoy!!
Last edited by Ali SC3; 09-04-14 at 10:32 AM.
#2009
Lexus Test Driver
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Ali- looks great man.
Do you know that the iat temp doesn't move in that location, not the best placement.
You're car is really looking great..im going to come to Colorado so we can swap that Turbo for a BW
I am building an na-t on the low, Oh and call me so I can get your new number.
Do you know that the iat temp doesn't move in that location, not the best placement.
You're car is really looking great..im going to come to Colorado so we can swap that Turbo for a BW
I am building an na-t on the low, Oh and call me so I can get your new number.
#2010
Lead Lap
iTrader: (1)
Oh well, that's as much traction as I'm willing to risk on the W58. This mod is still awesome and I thank Ali for posting it.