Well I have all the parts on the way, so as long as I can snag the ignitor harness and some ecu pins from a salvage yard this week I should be able to complete the swap this weekend. I'm going to attempt to create some kind of cover for the dizzy using the old cap... I know they make one from alum but I don't feel like paying $100 :S 550's going in and will try the 2.5bar map and see how it works.
This ad is not displayed to registered members. Register your free account today and become a member on Club Lexus!
Found an ignitor harness and am getting some ecu plug pins from some local Supra guys so I'm good to go. Question - what did you guys do with the line from the cam cover to the intake, just remove the hose and slap a filter on the cover nipple? Also the other line coming into the intake pipe from the front of the engine, I'm not looking at it now but it's vacuum line size. Can that one be capped? I'm going to find something very basic to make an intake pipe out of for now, because I know I'll be getting nice IC piping and a different turbo intake just down the road. For now I'm running it NA to work out the bugs and get the rest of the cash together for the turbo and tranny swap.
its just a hard line that runs from the drivers side cam cover to under the distributor on the passenger side. if you remove the soft lines on both sides (passenger 1 runs to intake pipe, drivers 1 runs to the vac switch under the power steering reservoir and then to the intake manifold) then you don't need to cap the hardline.
usually I cap or reuse the spot on the intake manifold (big vacuum/boost source), then I cap off the 2 vac nipples on the power steering dingy (if they are leaking capping them wont work, you will have to use a plug to bypass that stuff), and then I just remove the line on the drivers side to the intake pipe leaving the hardline free and open.
alot of people re-use the hardline for like a bov if you want to have your BOV on the passenger side you dont need to have a vac line coming across the top of the motor, just reuse the factory hardline. you do not have to cap both ends if there is no hoses running to it its just a metal section of pipe and those are the only 2 ends.
Some people like to keep the factory setup though for the power steering idle up function which uses that hardline we are talking about, and it works right even when na-t, but its easier just to delete it honestly the car turns just fine without it even at lower speeds and you can reuse the large nipple on the manifold for a bov or something more important.
eventually that plastic idle up vac switch will break and leak power steering fluid into the intake manifold which you can imagine gets messy and most people bypass it at that point instead of replacing it, I want to say you can unscrew that whole thing and replace it with like a M18 plug. I am not 100%sure on the M18 part but its one of those sizes around that. if its not broken though you can just cap the 2 nipples for now, which is what I have done.
Haha yeah that was a long day man. Next time I work outside I am getting a 10x10 pop up tent
The motor has been perfect since you pulled it btw. It runs hard and I haven't had anything leak except a power steering thing I caused myself.. lol.
Yeah there aren't any of the lines hooked up just a mock up to see if I could fit the throttle body that way. It just barely clears the bolt for the steering pump fitting when opening the throttle, so any longer of a FFIM and it wouldn't have worked. I am running a vacuum block underneath this time to keep it clean. also have the IACV welded underneath already. Not planning on removing this intake again so trying to get everything right.
when I flip the throttle body the throttle arm always hits the fusebox and I didn't want to relocate it like last time. I think I will shave some of the stuff off the left of the throttle body to make it look better. since I have the IACV I dont need the cold idle up stuff on the side.
I am actually going to run the evap and pcv full time and have the egr removable, and the ports on the top of the q45 throttle body will work like the stock throttle body ports. I am probably overthinking it but I want to leave it on the car permanently and be able to run through the emissions without putting the stock intake back on. I might even be the first one to have a FFIM and all the emissions components in place.
here is a pic of how close the flange has to be to have the throttle body that way and not hit the bolt that holds down the steering pump union for the remote reservoir, and another pic of the stuff I had welded on the IACV flange and 3x 1/4NPT aluminum bungs.
Ali, question on the valve cover hoses. I am reading through the whole thread for the 2nd time and trying to pick up details I may have missed the first time around... Earlier in the thread you stated:
"Never block the passenger side valve cover. leave that side open and disconnect and cap the line going to the pcv from the intake on the drivers side. I wouldn't even boost with the passenger side blocked that means all pressure past the rings has no place to escape whatsoever from the crank case = bad things for your seals."
Can you give me a better idea on what the best practice here is? Put a filter on the exhaust cover nipple and what are you doing with the intake side nipple?
I think for that response the mechanic had blocked the passenger valve breather just to eliminate air leaks for the maf but its not a good practice even as a test.
passenger valve cover breather must always be open to air, or rerouted back to the turbo intake pipe. you can also use a catch can or just run a breather on the valve cover but depending on how much oil your motor spits out it may get the bay all dirty not using a can. every motor is different.. amount of boost you run, piston ring wear, turbo drain issues, oil pressure from using wrong oil pump (gte on GE) will all effect how much crank case pressure the motor builds and thus have to escape via the breather or blow out your front and rear main seals. the more pressure also the more oil its gonna take with it, which is why some have to use a can. a proper setup on a healthy motor will minimize this pressure and you can get away with just a breather on the valve cover.
normal practice is to leave PCV in place on drivers side, and put a filter on the passenger side.. or put a line to a catch can with a filter on it, or a line to a catch can and another line to turbo intake pipe, or a line just straight to the turbo intake pipe (might get most oil in your intercooler/piping this way also reduces octane more oil that goes through).
so there are lots of was to do it but the main idea is that the passenger side is always open to air wether its through a hose or a catch can or the turbo intake pipe. it should never see boost so it cannot go in intercooler piping.
IF you have a map sensor setup like JDM ecu, its simpler because you can just run a breather on it or a catch can with a breather. we do not have to worry about metered air.
IF you have a maf sensor setup (USDM or obd2), then its more complex because it needs to be metered and that means routing it to the turbo intake pipe after the maf but before the turbo. you can use a catch can inline but no air can be released to have the right amount of air measured.
this is what they were doing in the quote you quoted me on, and since it was a maf setup it does need to be recirculated, so the mechanic decided to just block it off temporarily and that is a major no no if you block the passenger side and have the pcv on the drivers side, you have completely blocked the motors ability to vent pressure and you will blow your seals likely the first time you build crank case pressure. It should never be blocked off even for a test in my opinion.
no worries I don't expect everyone to search through 132 pages let alone read past page 1. if its not on page 1 I don't mind clarifying it at all. If it is on page 1 well then I need to make page 1 more clear so ask anyways.
It looks like the maf is only 1/4 inch difference in size 3" 2jzge on one size versus 3.25" on the gte maf same side.
I'm really doubting it make a difference, either way its a weird coupler to fit the 4" intake.
Also was taking a look at my timing while driving today, and I didn't see any kind of spike at 4500 that is talked about in the na-t bible on SF, pretty much wen from idle around 13.5 to max of around 42 at near limiter it seemed pretty uniform after the jump from idle to moving.
How are you reading timing? There's no way you are achieving 42 degrees of timing at redline and the engine is still in one piece.
I would love a way to log timing and knock accurately.
Its through my obd2 port using an app on my phone and a blu tooth connector. It's not interpreting the data its just pulling the numbers from the computer. I can check the scale but it seems to be right because at idle the timing is around 13 and I was expecting it so be somewhere near 10.