killersqrl

First just wanted to say thanks for this writeup and all the great information, I have been on an information gathering frenzy for the past week and this has been soooo helpful. I have started sourcing parts for my ecu swap - in fact I picked up an aristo ecu last night. Now to start searching for some 550s, ignitor and the sensors, guess I need to start hitting the classifieds If I have read it right you just cut the ge maf plug off and wire the map and iat to those wires. Did you just get new map and iat plugs from Toyota? Also where is the best place to score some ecu pins with or without pig tails, do yall just have extra old harnesses that you scrounge from? I used to love hitting salvage yards when I had my Mk2 but that's been almost 20 years ago, I'm sure things have changed and they don't let you roll in and have your way with the cars in the yard anymore.

Kris9884

iTrader: (7)

Actually quite the opposite, most yards, at least local to me don't want to even touch the cars. They invite you and your tools in and to just pay for whatever you have (or what they see) as you leave.. It's killer. That way you can get exactly what you want, including cutting harnesses off with the parts etc..

killersqrl

Oh wow yeah that's how it was back then, I figured the yards don't want people hacking up stuff anymore, I'll have to start hitting the yards again to see what I can find.

Kris9884

iTrader: (7)

That being said, this would be a good time to get an ignitor and an IAT, both of which are on very common vehicles like a 4runner or Solara for the ignitor and a Maxima for the IAT.

killersqrl

Awesome thanks for some of the vehicles, I have been doing searches here today trying to find exactly that. I'd like to get a list of possible vehicles and years so I can easily find them when hunting for parts. Also on the IAT, I have seen a lot of references to using a GM unit, but some of my searches show contradictory info - some say it works fine others say it uses different voltages. Is the one everyone seems to be using?

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

the limitations are it gets in the way of everything but can surprisingly put out decent power.
plug gap needs to go down to .024 about and good bkr7eix plugs, new cap, new rotor, it should do ok till you feel like changing it, many have gone up to 600hp on it but I would caution you can make more power on coilpacks due to the increased plug gap you can run.

no problem, sort of been a quest and writing down everything along the way.
for the jdm version and 92-95 cars, yes I cut the maf plug and use those wires for the map and IAT, and move the 1 pin at the ecu, it works perfect. I used a spare harness but you can get them from toyota if you know the part numbers (I dont) and driftmotion sells them and you dont have to look up the part numbers but shipping is a bit expensive if I do order from there I try and order it all in one shot to save on shipping. getting a spare 2jzge harness off a gs300 or other cars that are similar to ours is also a good option, most places do not charge much for a gs300 harness but all the engine connectors and pins are compatible, the only difference is the body connector but you wont be using that anyways (body connector looks like an aristo).

theres even some good deals here for harnesses sometimes you can get a cut harness for a low amount and then have spare connectors.

Thats lucky I haven't been to one of those in a while. nowadays for me its been like convince them they have the part, motivate them to go pull it, and wait forever to get it and they will be sure to leave something out or cut something off..

you can use the GM sensor, thats the exact one I am using right now. most air temp sensors are very similar in range turns out and the stock ecu is not looking for specifics, just hot and cold more or less.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

is that vacuum line going from I think your turbo to the top left going to a manual boost controller?
make sure you have it going into the tight port (bottom I think and side one goes to wastegate).
if its switched it creates a nice vacuum leak and the car will drive funny.

what is your vacuum reading at idle anyways? make sure that line on the drivers side for the boost gauge is connected right.

killersqrl

I know I read a few times that a 2.5bar map may work well with the 550's, has anyone been able to confirm that that you know of? I want to end up with 450-500hp and don't really want to buy injectors twice so was planning on stepping up to the 550s to start with. If I can get away with not having to mess with safc then all the better.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

What you read was my initial theory but it didn't actually work out, still not sure if it can work.
I blew the first two 2.5 bar map sensors I had without knowing it so the test was inconclusive.
I had tried to run 750cc ev14 injectors with the 2.5 bar motorolla and a 3 bar gm.
the gm 3 bar was just way too far off it couldn't run.
the 2.5 bar I thought was working but turns out I shorted it when I accidentally had the connector backwards, so I am not really sure what would have happened if it was working, but it overall didn't work most likely cause I shorted it.

these sensors almost instantly short out the first time you get the wires reversed, as in if you put the 3 pin connector on backwards it shorts out = trash throw it away. So be carefull when using one of these make sure you plug it in the right way the first time or its done for.

So I tried my old fried one again with my 440cc and I get a CEL and engine will not start/run.
I got a new one and installed it (my third 2.5 bar motorola map sensor and still on my 440cc injectors)
This time No check engine light = good thing.
engine actually started right = good thing
engine would then instantly shut off = bad thing

I am not 100% but it seemed like it was shutting off due to being way too lean.
I don't have 550 or larger injectors anymore but I was planning on testing it again when I do.
honestly I am not sure how much injector it will take the signal is off a decent amount, maybe even 660's would be close its all really guessing until someone gets it working and it seems like everyone just waits for me to do it =), but Its going to be a while before I get new injectors working on my FFIM right now.

you can always give it a go the map sensor is under $20 but replacing and changing injector sizes can become more costly.

HiPSI

iTrader: (2)

For it to die from being very lean then it must be wanting a significant amount of fuel, possibly more than 550's.

My 550's at 10psi with the 6265, the wideband dips into the 9.78:1 range at WOT so there is alot of fuel going on there. I've been slightly pulling out a few % with the SAFC NEO each time bringing it into the 10.5:1 range.

Let me just say that 10psi on this setup absolutely screams the wastegate dump is an experience in itself. The car drives so quiet even with the 4" downpipe midpipe but it merges into a Fujisubo SS cat-back and it significantly quiets it down. The wastegate is facing downfiring right at the ground so I think this makes it significantly louder as it echo's right off the pavement, but it's so loud people get out of your way in hurry!

killersqrl

Shoot for $20 I'll try it for sure, I'll just have to triple check that my connections are solid. If it doesn't work with the 550s then I'll go stock map and just use an afc and that should be ok right?

*edit* yeah I see right above HiPSI has it working on almost the same setup I am planning, so awesome.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

yeah for it to die on 440's with the cold start enrichment means it must be pretty lean you are right which is why I was contemplating 660's and I even tried 750's the first time just wish I didn't fry my map sensor at the time.

Yeah that wastegate will scream these large turbo's flow much more than 10 psi normally. funny thing is as you raise the boost it will get quieter. around 15 psi I am on the gate much less.

yeah try it with the 550's might as well. if not yeah 550's work with the stock map but it will just run rich in open loop. a simple afc can take care of that though which is why the whole motorolla 2.5 bar map sensor project got sidelined, as its very easy to wire in a map ecu or safc and not worry about injector changes anymore.

stevegrizz

Please help!

I want to turbo my car- and use the ttecu.

Car is stock 96 sc300 auto, only looking to run 300 whp or a little more. BUDGET!!!

Here is my understanding:

1-I can use obdI auto tt ecu as long as emissions dont matter (best ecu for application)
2-need to chop off maf and wire in compatible map/iat (part number or year and car?)
3-need to run bigger injectors (550's will work? or 450s? which type?)
4-for fuel pump need to run a relay; how will that effect the FPR?
5-I wanted to run with stock distributor-so need ignitor (ds62? impact on ecu choice?)
6-no piggyback necessary?

what am i looking at cost wise for everything not including the turbo kit?

Thanks!!

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

1. yes you can use an obd1 auto ecu . you can also use USDM or JDM but JDM is probably what you want.
2. When you are 96+ you don't chop off all the maf wires when using a JDM ecu, the 96+ maf power wire is 12V and the ground is a main ground. These do not work with the 5v map sensor. you will need to get power and ground from the tps sensor for the map sensor, the rest of the wires including maf signal and IAT signal you can reuse from your maf connector (and cut).
3. 550's for usdm ecu's, 440's for JDM ecu. the type is on the first page.
4. why do you need a relay I have no idea what you are talking about. fuel pump and FPR will work just fine like stock.
5. again, read the first page, you need a ds-62 ignitor and some wiring done.
6. no piggyback if you use the right injectors, see #3 above.

add up all the parts its seriously not that hard. some people have stated what it costs in this thread it really depends on how good you are at finding deals and parts.

stevegrizz

thanks!

couple of follow up questions

why would i want a jdm over usdm ecu?
was this to do with better auto trans control?

what are the limitations of 440's whp wise?

glad to hear i can just plug and play a 255 or larger fuel pump!!