BuffNStuff

So I moved pin 66 back to 62. Right now I am fixing this. They did splice into the MAF wiring. Hopefully my MAP isn't ruined. Also, when I got it back, both O2 sensors were unplugged, and the vacuum line that I had going to the AEM FIC originally was just left there still attached to the engine with nothing plugging the other end. There were like 15 codes that came up. After I fix this I will post the remaining codes.

ashtray

iTrader: (12)

Wowwww..That tech left a lot of holes in that boat. Glad you're getting it sorted out.

BuffNStuff

Codes that are still present:

P1400 - Sub-throttle Position sensor
P1652 - Idle air control valve circuit
P1662 - EGR by-pass Valve control circuit
P1630 - Traction Control
P1760 - Automatic transmission pressure control shift solenoid.


I haven't tried to move the car yet, only let it idle for 2 minutes. It is no longer running rich! Now it will kinda slowly surge back and fourth from 14.0 to 15.7. I can now rev it freely much to my neighbors delight at 9:30pm. I then shut it down and pulled the codes.

Also, I still have not fixed the issue of the duct taped MAF. Where did you guys get a reducer that fits? AND, I still need to jump the resistor on the back of the cluster for the tach to work. My scan tool showed I was idling between 650-800rpm. Finally, I have not yet checked/set timing. Wasn't sure if i should try to fix these issues first or not.

Any ideas?

*Edit* Nevermind on the reducer. I found one for $10 on Amazon.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

That was one of the ones on my list I hope it fixes it, It is ok to pull -16 or so when cold but when it warms up it should be close to -18 to -20 area if you have no leaks at all.

You won't find me using it but if you have a low boost under 400hp setup then you can use the stock distributor, its not ideal but if you gap the plugs down to .026-.028 you should be alright.
again its just for simplifying getting the mod going and going to a gte ecu.
some people will stay with the n/a ecu just cause they dont want to wire up coilpacks, which is crazy to me but I still think the mod should have varying levels of getting involved.

If I figure it out it will be called the "skinny" tt ecu mod.. lol

Oh man that looks horrible (sorry). They actually cut the power wires off the maf connector??? and put 12v to the map... hope its ok still, luckily the map is not as important in your case.
looks like they did not understand not to do the odb1 portion of the mod at all. Did you just point them to the first page? maybe I need a new write up just for odb2 I feel bad now these guys couldn't follow simple logic to where I have to literally write what pin to move to where, but If I get some free time I will write one up and figure out how to get all your codes gone and make a complete odb2 write-up. shouldn't be that bad at all I think its needed now.

good news is it looks like you can re-attach it all the wires are still there thankfully.

Awesome, so you got the maf all wired back up? what about the map I don't see the code for it?
looks like you are on the way now we can work through these items they are not that bad.

Sub tps is easy thats 2 pins that need jumpering, I believe it is 5v (normally the power wire to the tps, also now the map sensor) to the sub tps signal pin on the ecu and that will tell it sub tps is WOT and it disables trac and codes go away. I am assuming you do not have a trac control throttle body on your car. let me know if its different if you have trac then its just a matter of hooking up the second tps right, which should already be wired right actually.

IACV should be working, did you plug it in? sounds like you are idling at the right rpm, make sure the plug is pushed all the way they tend to crack and not go on tight cause of the exhaust heat sometimes, especially if the person removing it does not put the effort into removing it without breaking it.

EGR should also be working, check to see if you have a resistor or they unplugged it or if it was unplugged from before. you can try plugging it in and get it working or do a bypass with resistor, let me know what is plugged in and which route you want to go on this one.

trac control is the related to the sub tps not working, this code should go away with the other one.

The auto transmission pressure shift control solenoid is not present on your auto transmission. you can use a gte auto trans or more easily I would just try and trick it with some sort of resistor since you already have line pressure control via your stock throttle body, we just need to make the ecu think its sending its signal to something, its not needed unless you swap to a gte auto trans like from a supra or aristo, and then you could wire that up.

I have also heard you don't fail odb2 due to transmission codes but I don't know if that is true or just another myth.

Also when you go to set your final timing, don't do it right after a cold start as in right after the first start of the day. you can do it then if the timing is way out (tell by bad sounds from motor), but you will have to do it again after it warms up fully or just wait for it to warm up fully.
so let it warm up fully, then jumper the pins on the diagnostic connector, then set your base timing for the final time.
IF you do it cold and check it warmed up, you will see the timing has moved.
toyota procedure always set final timing and idle speed on a completely warm motor in case you guys didn't know.
If its really out then I set it close when I first start it like 8 or so, then when its warm I do the final setting to 8-10 area.

since you are idling on point and everything its probably close, but go ahead and set it the next time you get it fully warmed up. Don't wait to fix the other stuff.

SCereal

iTrader: (4)

Where are you guys sourcing the map sensor plug/pigtail?

edit: looks like maybe early 90's camrys have the same type plug? could it be that easy to snip one out of a junkyard?
edit2: nevermind, found one online for 9 bucks new shipped.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

there is also another 3 pin connector on the sc300/gs300/supra 2jzge harness that you can re-use as the map sensor connector if you have a spare junk harness. I think you have to chip off one part of the tab on the side can't remember exactly how I modified it but its the same basic 3 pin connector and it will lock in and everything, they just put those tabs on the side so you don't accidentally plug the wrong sensor into it but I think I can handle that on my own. you can do this with a lot of toyota connectors BTW. I have my map sensor connected like that it works flawlessly, never got around to ordering the exact connector. I'll snap a pic of it later.
you can get new ones online though or even at toyota its the stock turbo pressure sensor connector on a USDM gte supra.

Sometimes I forget how many things I have modified on there.. you would guess everything is like stock though if you drove it =)

Also on the truck front I decided not to use a turbo ecu at first, so you guys waiting for me to play with a USDM ecu will have to wait a bit longer. I didn't want to get injectors and swap them out and all that stuff right now since I already have the motor together how I want it (probably will happen sooner or later though). gonna get it all running on an odb2 97 2jzge supra 5spd ecu with a 95 2jzge supra auto harness (I think its auto) which I will convert over to odb2 by modifying the maf sensor wires to use a hotwire maf and run off 12v. apparently that is all you need to run an odb2 ecu on an odb1 harness but it will throw the code for missing the extra crank sensor the 96-97 have, but I am just going to run 2 shielded wires for those since I have a 96 motor with the extra crank sensor, so it should run perfect with no codes.

these are the main differences between 92-95 and 96-97 harnesses, and the 96 has the weird ground pin for the maf, I think we got all this sorted now between the different years.

I chose to do it this way cause the odb2 maf is just better to work with and this way I can wire up an odb2 port (2-3 wires) and be able to have a scan gauge to pull stuff from. This will be super helpfull since my truck does not even have a check engine light or a tachometer, I just have a speedometer and I know if the alternator is working or not.. lol 1985 technology.

BuffNStuff

Yes I rewired the MAF and MAP last night. I tapped the MAP ground into the TPS ground. Is this okay to do? It seems to work fine.

Also correct I do not have traction control. I will look into the pins that need jumpering.

I did not notice anything unplugged aside from the O2 sensors. I will double check when I get home.

Where can I pick up a cheap timing light? Or at least borrow one?

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

Yes you can tap the map sensor power and ground from the tps sensor power and ground. the map will need its own signal wire though run to the ecu.

all the 5V sensors share a common power and a common sensor ground. think of them like power and ground rails for all 5v items in the car. every 5V sensor gets power and ground and outputs their signal line which varies between 0-5v, and that is the new wire you have to run back to the ecu. on the map sensors, the signal wire is the middle wire (signal is still inbetween power and ground even on the maf), and if you know electronics its that way because of the circuit inside creates the signal by changing the resistance between the 2 other pins, so thats why the signal pins are always in the inside of the connectors and power and ground usually on outside on opposite sides.

Like the tps for example, the signal pin is varied inbetween the power and ground as a sort of potentiometer (resistor) like a volume switch, the more you turn it the more output on the signal even though the input and ground are not changing as all the sensors need 5V and ground to operate. Then the tps also has IDL which is just a touch contact when the resistor is at a certain point in its sweep. Other manufacturers just use the 1 signal and the ecu decides when its idling but toyota said lets run a wire for the ecu to know when its supossed to idl without any calculations. Nissan did this as well.
This is also why they have to flip the pins when the tps turns the other way as the sweep has changed directions so all the pins must be flipped to activate right. this is why gte and ge tps harnesses are flipped, and even on the gte the main tps and the sub tps are flipped also. Its just a mechanical/electrical thing.

yeah if you don't have trac control do a search online its an easy one to get rid of. the specific pins were listed in the clubna-t thread I had linked on the first page but all that info is down now. I do rememver it was to jump the 5v tps power wire to the sub tps signal wire though so its a matter of looking up the sub tps pin spot o the ecu and jumping the 5v shown in the digaram on the first page to it, since you don't have a sub tps connector on your harness you will have to do it at the ecu.

yeah the egr probe is hard to notice its in the back by the firewall on drivers side sticking in the egr tube, the connector is bolted to the upper intake manifold by the brake booster.

I got mine on amazon for like $35 or so, simple on off one works with vvti coils, I can post the part number in a bit.
You may even be able to rent one for free from the local auto parts store, just get the simple one with no readout, if it has a digital readout its not going to work right.
*edit* here is the part number of the one I got, no fancy dials or screens, just an on/off with a light.
Do not get an expensive "dial back" timing light with a screen, I know it seems like a good idea or it would be better cause its more expensive but really it just adds unecessary confusion and you will just end up with more problems with waste spark coils as they do not read right on the screen when you use coils that fire twice. the regular on/off ones will always read right on the crank which is the only way you should set your timing by looking at the line on the crank pulley.
INNOVA 3551 Inductive Timing Light

for reference

SCereal

iTrader: (4)

From my "Book of Ali" onenote notebook

"Check engine light on due to a code 47. When you do the NA to TT wiring mod there is no longer a TRAC. Because there is not a TRAC the ECU flags a code 47 which is a sub-throttle position sensor fail. The Sub-throttle position sensor info is used by the TRAC system. To get rid of the check engine light associated with the code 47, just place a jumper between ECU B41(5vdc, VCC) and B42(sub throttle pos sensor,VTA2). That provides a +5 VDC signal to the ECU VTA2 telling it that the Throttle is WOT. Makes the ECU happy and the code 47 goes away."

That's for a JDM ECU, might want to double check a USDM OBD2 to be safe.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

wow your one notebook skills are incredible!! I may have to just give hints at what I am talking about and see if you can post it up
I double checked the USDM pinout it is 41 for 5v power and 42 is VTA2.
http://s68.photobucket.com/user/infe...outs2.jpg.html

ashtray

iTrader: (12)

I'm drooling all this good OBDII info lol

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

haha, yeah its a toyota, odb and all that stuff is interchangeable across chassis and motors, just a matter or matching up wires and knowing where some of them go. If you take the info from my thread and Gerrb's wiring thread you will notice you have all the info you need to drop in a 2jzge with a gte ecu in pretty much any EFI toyota chassis. The carb'd toyota's are a little more involved but you guys won't be dealing with that generally speaking.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

I think I stumbled upon the solution for the shifting hesitation on manual cars with auto ecu's

it seems like grounding pin A18 would put the ecu in manual shifting mode where it holds the gear.

40 Pin Plug 18 M Automatic Transmission Manual Mode Select Input This pin is used to select manual mode for the automatic transmission. Used to allow the automatic transmission to be manual shifted & hold the selected gear. This pin is toggled to ground to toggle the Normal / Manual automatic transmission shifting mode. L = Locked in first gear, 2 = locked in second gear, D = Locked in third gear, but will shift to second gear at low speed.

http://wilbo666.pbworks.com/w/page/4...0JZA80%20Supra

this and/or setting the select gear to L should solve the slight hesitation issue. although it is so slight of a hesitation I am inclined not to test it out right now but I may get around to it, who knows it may solve one thing and cause another problem..

BuffNStuff

I looked around and I didn't really see anything unplugged. I took some pictures, maybe you can see if something doesn't look right. Also the EGR code is a pending fault which my scanner says is different compared to a current fault?

BuffNStuff

And another pic