PZski

Found that a small curved pry bar is perfect for leveraging the regulator
mounting post screws out. Placed between the window and the inside base
of the window when it is fully up (whether you have the square bolts mounting
the base of the glass to the shaft in place or have removed them) there is ample
pressure to pop the bolts out without stressing the glass.

Wished I would have employed this trick on passenger side before I scratched
my tint coating.

Necessity is the mother.....

By the By: work around to try to fix the cable did not work or perhaps I am inept.

salimshah

The price of regulator (MSRP) has gone up with time. I found one on Amazon and now awaiting delivery.

First a question:

I have the old regulator off and I am pretty certain the number of winds on the spool as it got off will not match the winds on the new one. I am almost certain that the square drive of the motor will not match with the receiving square slot of the regulator. Due to gearing action, I think moving the square drive will not be possible. [maybe I can pulse the up/down switch to align them]. In any case I can not guarantee the max and min travel level of the glass elevator will match to the setup before the repair.

Do I need to worry about setting the limits or the motor learns as it moves the glass from one stop to the other on its own [RX does that].


Comments:
I am almost sure that the shops have a SST to turn the Nut assemble and the 14mm bolt is not turned.

Salim

jpw

No. You don't have to worry about lining it up. The window will just go up & down when u press or pull the button. If u have to adjust the square plastic nut, just slide the window bracket up or down the regulator so the motor lines up into the plastic nut. I have installed 3 regulators so far, 2 in our SC & 1 in the GS.

salimshah

Thank you.

Salim

SC3coupe

iTrader: (4)

Finished this today.
No problem with the studs and bolts, almost everything done with the window up, just dropped the window a bit to remove and install the 14mm.
No scratched tint or anything that way.

The last stud just pushes out with the screw driver, and when installing it just snapped in place with the window up.

The motor I just hooked back up to the car to turn the window switch until it matches.
Then I lowered the window to the factory set position (not sure if they are all set about midway like that) to tighten the 14mm bolts.


The old one just about cracked in a few areas!

Lexman4375

This is an awesome how to DIY illustrated thread. The difficulty level is 5 out 10. After you unplug the electronics and pull the door panel off, you will need the 14mm wrench to loosen the two keeper bolts that connects the glass to the track on the regulator,but in addition, you will need a 10mm socket wrench to take the three screws out that mount the regulator to the door frame and also there are three 10 mm nuts with a milled on washer located about 8 inches to the right that need to be taken off because the hold the regulator motor to the door frame. With a little wiggle work everything will come out. It takes about 15 min for a novice to install the new one and another 15 min to put the panels back on.

jpw

Just a word of advice from an experienced regulator replacer. I've been inside these doors way too often. Like I said above I've replaced 3 regulators. Also, just recently fixed the dreaded broken exterior door opener bracket on both doors. (wrote a how-to on that one)


- This job is kindofa big pain in the **** and something you really don't want to repeat, so I strongly recommend NEVER put a used regulator in. How would you feel after going through all that trouble only to have to do it again in a few months or a year ? Save up and get a new one (regulator that is). I'd probably get a used motor , though if mine broke but they rarely do.

- If this is your first time, I'd recommend removing the old and installing the new one at the same time. This just makes it easier to remember where things go and you're less likely to lose screws, etc. If the window doesn't go up or down after you've checked your door switch, assume it's the regulator and just order one. I've never heard of the motor going out.

- When taping the window during the install , use that blue painter's tape - it comes off much easier and leaves zero sticky crap compared to duct tape.

- This job is frustrating, so be patient, but it's OK to swear.

Sporkit

What's the bolt that you use to detach the regulator from the window ?

Powerline

iTrader: (1)

Went to the junkyard today and scored two drivers reg. This sticky came in handy! Took me about 45 mins not bad for a first timer!

Aron9000

BUMP for this awesome thread. I didn't think it was too big of a PITA, except I stripped one of those screws on the window motor where the regulator connects. Had to take a hack saw to it to make it a flat blade screw driver.

Also I didn't know you could order this part on Amazon like somebody posted earlier. Lexus dealer lubed me up to the tune of $196 for the driver's side.

river

I amm trying to replace driver side regulator for my 1995 lexus sc400, got the new regulator but the square hole on the new regulator looks like small.
It will not fit motor square nut.
what to do?

34242

Very helpfull. Is there a window surround still available? Mine has a split and I may as well replace it while I have the panel off

Kira X

iTrader: (24)

I’ve heard you can still order a black one through dealerships but tan and grey trim is harder to get.

tshawn63

For a post that's this old, it's still beneficial. I'd have NEVER gotten that thing out without your pictures. Thanks!.....

pishta

Ive taken mine out so many times, I think I can do it in under 15 minutes with a 10mm on a 1/4 electric impact. ! My motors gear plate came apart: rubber bond failed and they just spin independently now. Also my window doesnt track correctly, the rear drops down about 2 inches lower than the front and it binds, putting stress on the weak plastic lift slide. I think The bottom rear roller of the window came out? How do you get to that part?

>>> just confirmed this and found the flush head nut and bushing in bottom of door well. Put it back in finger tight with a dab of super glue (put a dab deep in with a toothpick as deep as you can without touching the other threads so you can screw it on without the glue bonding it loose! ) I finger tighted mine, it bonded and now it aint coming out again (for better or worse) my plastic slider was in great shape but the felt covered bracket thing was bent down so I bent it back up to rest on the bottom of the window bracket. cycled it a few times, worked like a treat! Lubed everything back up and put back together hopefully for the last time as every screw hole in the door panel and window trim is broken, the washers are just clinging to the nubs of the old holes. Lexus quality? C'mon man! .