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Sc400 How To Replace Old Door Regulators Step By Step

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Old 03-28-11, 08:27 AM   #61
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Let this be stickied. Now! A very detailed write up. Thanks for posting.
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Old 01-06-12, 12:54 AM   #62
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so is this what not making my window go up bc motor was replaced already?
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Old 06-25-12, 01:57 PM   #63
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Default window regulator

This is an excellent post. Glad to have found it
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Old 06-25-12, 02:08 PM   #64
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Now I just need to find parts in the Vancouver area
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Old 12-26-12, 05:02 PM   #65
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Thakn you1
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Old 09-02-13, 03:21 PM   #66
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Default are all window regulators same on all years sc300/400?

Passenger side is shot....I can hear a light click on up but nothing on down.
it is stuck up at this point.

Can anyone advise on what years fit what years?
I read that some are different.

I have a 97 SC300
will the window parts fit from a 93 sc400?
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Old 01-07-14, 03:09 PM   #67
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I'm going to do this in a couple of weeks.
Nguyen, I know your post is old, but there does appear to be multiple part numbers out there for the same part.
check out this - I found this link to a good diagram http://www.partsbase.org/lexus/sc300...xus-6980224030
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Old 01-08-14, 03:03 AM   #68
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SC300 and SC400 REGULATORS ARE DIFFERENT A D WILL NOT LINE UP.
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Old 01-25-14, 06:07 PM   #69
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I'm in the middle of doing both sides of my SC. I have the 2 nasty window bolts out (I took pics and will show how I did it when I'm done).

I have every single stud from the regulator pushed through the door to slide out except for the top right one (on the driver's side) - it's one of the 2 that are behind the rubber cap - the one towards the front of the car just doesn't want to push through.

It feels like the glass is right behind it, stopping me from pushing the stud through.

Those of you who did this - do you remember in which position the glass was when you pushed these studs through ? Top, 1/2 way down, or down a few inches like the PO's pic with the duct tape ?

thanks!
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Old 01-29-14, 06:41 AM   #70
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OK, so I just finished doing both regulators last weekend. I will share some more info about the process that's not covered in the initial post (thanks so much to the OP for posting, BTW)

1. My problem above regarding the last upper bolt being still stuck while removing was solved by looking around more. I found a really good post on Soarer Central about this. My problem above regarding the top right bolt not coming out was solved by raising the window all the way up, then sticking a screwdriver under the inner metal door panel with the tip resting right under the part of the regulator that just wouldn't push through. Using the screwdriver, I wedged it by pulling back on the screwdriver handle, which forced the tip of the screwdriver to push outward against the old regulator - voila, it just pushed the bolt out of the hole and I got the entire regulator out. Before I did this, I reached in and popped out the 3 bolts that held the motor to the door.

2. On to the most frustrating part of this entire procedure - the 2 square bolts that face outside the door which hold the window to the regulator. In this example, I'm working on the driver's side window. In the door you'll notice a round 'safety bar' which runs through the middle of the door which is parallel to the ground. I lifted the window so the bottom of the window was about 1-2 inches above that bar to give you some room. Note you MUST only use the open end of the 14mm wrench to unscrew that bolt. Once you get it open about 1/4 to 1/2 turns, it (at least mine) loosened up very easily and you can hand-turn it to get it out. The REAR bolt wasn't that hard. Just feel back there and slide the open end of the wrench. Feeling the bolt head will help you position the wrench over the bolt head, then unscrew.

The forward bolt (on the right side when I was doing the driver's side) was of course a total PITA, but what I did (see pic) was slide the wrench and hold it with my left hand, and guided it over the bolt head with my right hand. Again, feel with your hands to get the position of the bolt head so you can angle the open end of the 14 mm wrench appropriately. Once you get the thing slid over the bolt head (for me it was after a few minutes of many attempts and cussing of course), hold the wrench on the bolt with your right hand while you're unscrewing to minimize chances of it slipping off. Luckily for me, it only took 1/2 turn for it to loosen up and I used my fingers for the rest. This sounds silly, but you know how blind people have heightened awareness of their other remaining senses ? Because of this, I closed my eyes while I was trying to slip the wrench over the bolt head since that's all I wanted to concentrate on.

The pic below is pretty lame, but I had to take a separate pic of each side, then crop them together, but I wanted to show you the position of my hands/fingers when trying to get the wrench over the bolt.

Oh, one more thing. I used painters tape to tape the upper part of the door (above the window), then over top of that I used duct tape to keep the window in the position I wanted. It held it fine. It's easier and cleaner to take the painters tape off your painted surfaces. IF you have the duct tape on for very long (not sure how long), you will have a sticky mess to get off your paint. I just used a razor blade to get the gooey crap off the window.


Click the image to open in full size.

I know the pic is small, but if you right click it, choose "open in new tab", go to that tab, and press (CTRL) +++ a few times, it'll blow it up so you can see the lettering..


Oh well, I hope this helps somebody!
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Old 02-12-14, 01:14 AM   #71
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Wonderful guide, time savior. Thank you MERXUS.
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Old 06-04-14, 11:18 AM   #72
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Default Thanks Merxus...a couple of things I found

This has been a great thread and thanks to all who have posted. I got my right side done last weekend and didn't have but one issue which I wanted to post. Sorry I didn't take pics but if/when I do the other side I will.

The Left of the upper 2 studs (picture 8) that hold the vertical bracket gave me the most trouble. It is too long and when you try to push it back to drop the assembly it hits the window. I tried it with the window up, down and 1/2 way positions but it didn't matter. I was just about to remove all the trim and the glass when I gave it one more try by placing the tip of a medium screw driver on the end of the stud (Glass Up) and applied steady pressure to the stud while holding and twisting gently the vertical bar. As soon as the smooth end of the stud got behind the sheet metal I twisted the bar gently to the right and down and it popped out. Luckily didn't break the glass...takes considerable pressure and focus.

Replacement followed the same procedure but reverse. Because of the way the door sheet metal is recessed you can get the stud started, then apply pressure to the glass and twist the bar into place....Gently so as not to tweak it. I did think about grinding off the non-threaded end of the stud but didn't and it worked. I then followed the rest of Merxus' instruction. About 1.5 hours total, because I took my time.

Also his detail of the cable spool swap work great. I just replaced the regulator as my motor was fine, but pulled the whole assembly out as described to change it on the bench. If you grab the new one with your thumb and index and hold the cables with your other hand you can gently twist the spool to line up with the square drive of the motor and drop it in...Worked perfectly!

Thanks again to everyone!!
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Old 06-04-14, 11:34 AM   #73
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Just remembered one other thing with the 4 sided studs. Notice most pics have very rusted gland nuts. Mine were fine but sprayed a bit of WD first then used my bent needle nose to lock into 2 of the 4 slots and just held the stud with a 14mm wrench and twisted the needle nose to loosen them. Next time I think I will sacrifice a crappy socket to make a 4 prong spanner socket to do it...should work with No bleeding necessary. Hope this helps.
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Old 09-01-14, 10:21 AM   #74
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Default What If.....

Window is full up.
Should mention this is on the donor car.
No electric available.

How do you manually move the regulator cable to allow the window to separate
from the slide?

Probably figure it out by the time I see an answer, or I will answer myself.

Rest of comments on the DIY are spot on. Left of three anchoring bolts for the regulator
was worst. Had to use small punch and get it started behind the sheet metal. After that
(including reinstall) it was straight forward easy.

On the other hand I had no issues with the 14mm window setting screws. I liked the closed eyes visualization suggestion.

EDIT: Someone will have to post a way to accomplish with the window full up, I was unable and had to find a power source
to half mast the window on the donor car. Clips on the door panels are a pain. I ended up buying a few!!!!

I am going to try a work around fix to old regulator.......Fishing split shot weight (tiny) and crimp on either
side of the broken plastic guide to hold it in place on the wire. Won't matter to me, but interested to see if it will work.

Last edited by PZski; 09-01-14 at 12:53 PM.. Reason: Project completed
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Old 09-01-14, 11:54 AM   #75
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Im real glad the DIY is detailed and laid out well i feel like some skip steps sometimes should definitely be added to the list though, thanks man!
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Old 09-01-14, 11:54 AM
 
 
 
 
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