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Sc400 How To Replace Old Door Regulators Step By Step
#33
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: texas
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I am not sure if this is what I need. Just bought a 94 sc yesterday. He told me the passenger window was kind of squirrely. My thought was fine I dont like windows down anyway. But my roommate was trying to lower the driver side and mistakenly lowered the passenger side about 3 inches. Neither control will work it now. No sound..no nothing..window wont budge..and wouldnt you know we are expecting rain. Any quick fixes to get the window back up til I can get it repaired? help help
#34
Pole Position
Thread Starter
check:
1.switch !( this might be it)
2. fuses (you never know)
3. motor(s) on both doors-- hard to say
4. reg. (those hardly ever go bad together)
good luxck
1.switch !( this might be it)
2. fuses (you never know)
3. motor(s) on both doors-- hard to say
4. reg. (those hardly ever go bad together)
good luxck
#36
Pole Position
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Boston, MA
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Thanks for the post. It'll be really helpful when I check my regulators. Since I bought my car, the windows seem to open and close incredibly slow (at least 5 seconds) compared to my Corolla. I think there's either gunk stuck in there, or the regulators rusted up after all these years and I need new ones.
#38
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: North Carolina
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Did this repair yesterday on my '93 SC4. DIY & photos were a great help and repair went without any problems.
I learned an exacto knife does a great job of cleanly removing the plastic sheet covering the large door hole. Pull the plastic away from the door and slice the black tar caulking. No need to cut the plastic.
Trickiest part I had was getting the new regulator to line up with the square drive on the motor. To move the drive, I reattached the motor to the power doggle and bumped it. Once I had the drive at the right angle, I took it back to the bench and slid the new regulator cable assembly into place. There may be a simpler way to do this, but the square drive did not want to move using hand pressure. Didn't try using a wrench to make adjustments...
As far as places to purchase the window regulators, I got mine through Irontoad.com for $91.52 each. Very happy with the repair. Now I can go through a drive-thru again! As noted on the other thread for my '93 the part numbers were as follows:
69801-24033
69802-24033
As posted by sdastg1 on the other thread:
putting all the info into one thread for someone else's future reference
Regulator
92-93
R- 69801-24033 $94.73
L- 69802-24033 $94.73
94
R- 69801-24032 $94.73
L- 69802-24032 $94.73
95-00
R- 69801-24041 $97.51
L- 69802-24041 $97.51
Mike
I learned an exacto knife does a great job of cleanly removing the plastic sheet covering the large door hole. Pull the plastic away from the door and slice the black tar caulking. No need to cut the plastic.
Trickiest part I had was getting the new regulator to line up with the square drive on the motor. To move the drive, I reattached the motor to the power doggle and bumped it. Once I had the drive at the right angle, I took it back to the bench and slid the new regulator cable assembly into place. There may be a simpler way to do this, but the square drive did not want to move using hand pressure. Didn't try using a wrench to make adjustments...
As far as places to purchase the window regulators, I got mine through Irontoad.com for $91.52 each. Very happy with the repair. Now I can go through a drive-thru again! As noted on the other thread for my '93 the part numbers were as follows:
69801-24033
69802-24033
As posted by sdastg1 on the other thread:
putting all the info into one thread for someone else's future reference
Regulator
92-93
R- 69801-24033 $94.73
L- 69802-24033 $94.73
94
R- 69801-24032 $94.73
L- 69802-24032 $94.73
95-00
R- 69801-24041 $97.51
L- 69802-24041 $97.51
Mike
#39
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Michigan
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Window problem
wow, great DIY, looks like i may be doin this soon? not sure exactly what i need to replace though (motor, regulator, other?) both of my windows just all of a sudden stopped working, and the driver's control switch makes a strange buzzy electrical type noise when i try to activate it ( pass. side control switches are silent). Since the noise is comin straight from the master switch, i tried tossin' a whole new unit in there but it does the exact same thing. a few times the windows have miraculously started working again, exactly like normal. I described the problem to a local Toyota dealer and they made it sound like it was the motor. So what do you guys think ? Anyone else have this same situation?
#41
Thanx for this tutorial! Saved my ***! Just got done with mine.....almost perfect - forgot to reconnect my memory seats - LOL..... Oh well, another project for another day. I have power windows!
#44
Lead Lap
iTrader: (1)
OK, so I neeeeeed help!
I understand how this is done and consider myself a pretty good DIY'er.
I was able to remove the left square bolt (holding the window), in about 10 mins with a 14mm wrench.
The right nut is another story... I've literally spent 2 hours a pint of blood, 2 trips to Lowes and utterly destroyed 5% tint... and haven't so much as budged it.
Im at the point where I'm ready to literally smash the window out.
What can I do? These nuts are so soft that if the wrench so much as slips, it can round off the nuts.
Maybe I have Donkey Kong hands, but it takes me 15 mins to get a wrench on the bolt.
Then 100% of the time, any size wrench just slips off this tiny shallow bolt.
There is so little room to work on this bolt. Nothing fits it...13, 14, 15 (anymore), I can't get it from the front.
Any ideas? If not, I'll hammer the f-ing window out and post pics lol.
-
I understand how this is done and consider myself a pretty good DIY'er.
I was able to remove the left square bolt (holding the window), in about 10 mins with a 14mm wrench.
The right nut is another story... I've literally spent 2 hours a pint of blood, 2 trips to Lowes and utterly destroyed 5% tint... and haven't so much as budged it.
Im at the point where I'm ready to literally smash the window out.
What can I do? These nuts are so soft that if the wrench so much as slips, it can round off the nuts.
Maybe I have Donkey Kong hands, but it takes me 15 mins to get a wrench on the bolt.
Then 100% of the time, any size wrench just slips off this tiny shallow bolt.
There is so little room to work on this bolt. Nothing fits it...13, 14, 15 (anymore), I can't get it from the front.
Any ideas? If not, I'll hammer the f-ing window out and post pics lol.
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