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****Official Wheel & Tire Fitment Guide for SC300/SC400****

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Old 04-12-05, 08:33 PM   #16
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It's the T&E Vertex Kit, no knock off here for my car.
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Old 04-12-05, 08:35 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by newyorksc
lexant- if your going to order from hre, are you going to go with the offsets that they provide? are you going to go with custom offsets decided by yourself? click on this pic, its a 285 tire on a 10" wide hre rim, unsure about the offsets as they keep it private, but i showed a couple people here and it is estimated to be around +40 or +42, but if you go order with them, or most custom wheel companies, they will use their own offsets that they see fit for our cars. also, let them know that you need it to fit the endless brake setup.
so they would kno the offset if i ordered from them? would it be flush with the fender or slightly sunken to give it that aggressive look? if so i mite as well not worrie about offsets and let them deal with it.
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Old 04-12-05, 09:10 PM   #18
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Great job Greg,
Here is my current info.

Wheels: Gold Super Advan Version 2

Size: Front 18X10 Offset +24mm
..........Rear 18X10 Offset +24mm
Tires:
(F) BFGoodrich g-Force T/A KDW 2
255/35/18
(R) Yokohama ES100's
255/35/18
Suspension: HKS Hipermax II

Fenders rolled all around. Ill have pics soon.
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Old 04-12-05, 09:39 PM   #19
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CL Member Name: guessd
Rim Brand and Type: SSR/SSW D5R
Rim Size f/r: 18x9 F 18x10 R
Rim Offset f/r: +37 for front and rear
Tire Size f/r: 245/40/18 Front 285/35/18 Rear
Suspension Setup: Tein HR's
Comment On Ride: Perfectly fine. Comfortable and handles great.
Fender Modifications: None needed. The rear will go another 1/16 inch down and the front can go another 1/8 inch. The rear driver's side seems to be rubbing ONLY over really hard highway bumps, otherwise, it is fine.
Any other comments: The coilovers are maxed, I might have to get softer springs that will initially lower the vehicle more.
Picture:

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Old 04-12-05, 10:35 PM   #20
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Great job on the write up! The pictures of stretched tires is good for reference except that not all tires are made equal. Firstly companies use different reference points to measure the width. Falken Azenis is famous for this in that the 245 is more like a 265 with most tires!
Falken Azenis ST115 and Dunlop FM901 stretch very nicely due to softer sidewalls. Toyo T1s and others with stiff sidewalls are not very good for stretching. I stretch mainly for fender clearance so that when you car is as low as it can go you aren't rubbing.

To clear big brakes you can't post the width and offset and expect people to know if they will clear your brakes. The wheel design is crucial to fitting big brakes. If they are 3 piece order the Hi disc. Otherwise you will want a wheel that has spokes on the face of the rim and does not curve in sharply towards the outter edge of the rim. The next best way to clear is lower offset! Lower offset means the wheel is going to be farther away from the caliper. If your offset is too high use spacers and you can shave a little off your caliper if necessary.

CL Member Name: TurboTeg
Rim Brand and Type: Volk Racing TE37
Rim Size f/r: 18x8.5 and 18x9.5
Rim Offset f/r: +40 for front and rear (MKIV fitment)
Tire Size f/r: 235/40/18 and 285/35/18 Sumitomo
Suspension Setup: Tein Basics, Supra TT brakes f/r

pics and comments soon. I have some 15mm and 3mm spacer I may use as well.

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Old 04-13-05, 01:36 AM   #21
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Question Prospective wheel set up... Advice?

This really is a very helpful thread, but a few questions remain in my mind. Using the info I've gathered here and from other threads on this site, I've come up with this combination:

F/R: 19x9, 19x10
Offset: +37mm

245/35/19 which gives a 9.64 wide section
285/30/19 which gives a 11.22 wide section

This should work without rubbing and keep my speedo pretty accurate, correct? I'm not terribly concerned with ride comfort as much as I am concerned about rubbing. I'd hope to run a drop of 1.5" to 2.5", which will depend on how the car looks once fitted with the new rubber, and rubbing issues. I want an agressive stance w/o rolling the fenders, and w/o causing damage due to rubbing.

Everything is stock for now, but once my lawsuit is settled BODY KIT, COILOVERS, RIMS, BIG BRAKES, LEDs ALL AROUND, LEXTECH LIGHTING, HIDS, ICE, and paint, of course
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Old 04-13-05, 10:27 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TurboTeg
To clear big brakes you can't post the width and offset and expect people to know if they will clear your brakes. The wheel design is crucial to fitting big brakes. If they are 3 piece order the Hi disc. Otherwise you will want a wheel that has spokes on the face of the rim and does not curve in sharply towards the outter edge of the rim. The next best way to clear is lower offset! Lower offset means the wheel is going to be farther away from the caliper. If your offset is too high use spacers and you can shave a little off your caliper if necessary.
youre 100% right about tires not being equal. I have found that many of the BF goodrich and michellin tires tend to bubble out more than others at the sidewall while still having an equal contact patch. I believe yokohama and kumho make straighter sidewalled tires.

As for the discussion about offset and brake clearance, offset has NO bearing as to whether or not your calipers clear the face. It depends only on the face design. A high disc wheel that will clear bigger calipers will have the same clearance at +37 as it will with a -100 offset or +100 offset. Youll run into other problems running something like that, but you have to think of offset like sliding the barrel of the wheel back and forth. This doesnt change the design of the face. If you can mount the face of the wheel without the barrel and have it clear, you can mount the whole wheel with whatever offset your heart desires.

Remember key points when choosing your wheels and what they relate to:
Offset: Clearance of suspension and fender. Determines how far the face of the hub is from the center of the wheel. Positive offset pushes the wheel outwards. Negative offset bringing the wheels in. Dont forget to also consider the width of the wheel when choosing offsets. Spacers will not change the offset of the wheel relative to itself, but will push the whole wheel outwards.

Face design(hi-disc, mid-disc, lo-disc): Caliper clearance. For stock wheels, using low disc wheels is usually fine. For any upgrades, high disc wheels are necessary in the front but many rears can still use a low disc wheel. The Supra TT rear calipers will fit behind most low disc wheels. Remember too that the disc of the wheel directly influences how much lip you have. Low disc wheels have more lip since the face can stay closer to the hub and mount lower on the barrel
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Old 04-13-05, 11:21 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rscott
youre 100% right about tires not being equal. I have found that many of the BF goodrich and michellin tires tend to bubble out more than others at the sidewall while still having an equal contact patch. I believe yokohama and kumho make straighter sidewalled tires.

As for the discussion about offset and brake clearance, offset has NO bearing as to whether or not your calipers clear the face. It depends only on the face design. A high disc wheel that will clear bigger calipers will have the same clearance at +37 as it will with a -100 offset or +100 offset. Youll run into other problems running something like that, but you have to think of offset like sliding the barrel of the wheel back and forth. This doesnt change the design of the face. If you can mount the face of the wheel without the barrel and have it clear, you can mount the whole wheel with whatever offset your heart desires.

Remember key points when choosing your wheels and what they relate to:
Offset: Clearance of suspension and fender. Determines how far the face of the hub is from the center of the wheel. Positive offset pushes the wheel outwards. Negative offset bringing the wheels in. Dont forget to also consider the width of the wheel when choosing offsets. Spacers will not change the offset of the wheel relative to itself, but will push the whole wheel outwards.

Face design(hi-disc, mid-disc, lo-disc): Caliper clearance. For stock wheels, using low disc wheels is usually fine. For any upgrades, high disc wheels are necessary in the front but many rears can still use a low disc wheel. The Supra TT rear calipers will fit behind most low disc wheels. Remember too that the disc of the wheel directly influences how much lip you have. Low disc wheels have more lip since the face can stay closer to the hub and mount lower on the barrel

You're absolutely right Ron,

I've noticed that the Yoko AVS tires having straighter sidewalls as oppose to my current Dunlops. I may use Yoko's in the rear next time just to give it a shot at not moderately rubbing.

Thanks for the useful Caliper clearance issue Ron
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Old 04-13-05, 11:36 AM   #24
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Also avoid Nitto 555 as well it has a very square sidewall that is prone to rubbing. Ran into this problem on my gf's car recently. Falken Ziex 512 fixed this problem. Same size but MUCH better clearance!

To clear big brakes, Hi disc and wheel design are most important. Offset does come into play when clearing big brakes. Think about it, if your wheel won't clear and you have add a 5mm spacer that is effectively lowering your offset by 5mm. Many wheels are designed so that if you go with a lower offset the company adds more material to the mounting pad which creates more clearance for brakes. This holds true for the 5Zigen FN01RC. 17x10 +35 will have 10mm less brake clearance than the 17x10 +25mm.

While on the topic of getting more lip, as stated before Lo disc will provide the most lip. If you want the most lip you can use the lowest disc with a higher offset then use spacers to bring it out. Depends on the wheel you have chosen though as you will need to consult the chart of the wheel you have decided on. I love it when companies provide the amount of lip for each disc/offset choice!
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Old 04-13-05, 01:56 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TurboTeg
Also avoid Nitto 555 as well it has a very square sidewall that is prone to rubbing. Ran into this problem on my gf's car recently. Falken Ziex 512 fixed this problem. Same size but MUCH better clearance!

To clear big brakes, Hi disc and wheel design are most important. Offset does come into play when clearing big brakes. Think about it, if your wheel won't clear and you have add a 5mm spacer that is effectively lowering your offset by 5mm. Many wheels are designed so that if you go with a lower offset the company adds more material to the mounting pad which creates more clearance for brakes. This holds true for the 5Zigen FN01RC. 17x10 +35 will have 10mm less brake clearance than the 17x10 +25mm.

While on the topic of getting more lip, as stated before Lo disc will provide the most lip. If you want the most lip you can use the lowest disc with a higher offset then use spacers to bring it out. Depends on the wheel you have chosen though as you will need to consult the chart of the wheel you have decided on. I love it when companies provide the amount of lip for each disc/offset choice!

offset is not measured from center to the cars hub, it is measured from center to the wheels hub. Adding material to the mounting pad is what often changes the offset with one piece wheels while retaining the same amount of lip because that is the only way to change offset. Adding material there also contributes to the high disc factor. When dealing with multi-piece wheels, the same face is used while using a different barrel ie the discs between Volk wheels are interchangable between wheels of different offset or design because the face is made and then mated to a certain barrel to get the right offset. I think it is much harder when dealing with single piece wheels when trying to get the right offset/pad height/width.

Another thought on offset vs disc clearance: If you take and mount ONLY the face (cut the barrel off) and it doesnt clear the caliper, there is no way its going to clear with any offset.
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Old 04-13-05, 01:57 PM   #26
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****UPDATE: TEINS INSTALLED-NEW PICS****

I'm already in the first post, but here's more details.

CL Member Name: Jeremyp111
Rim Brand and Type: HP Evo
Rim Size f/r: 18x8 (f), 18x9 (r)
Rim Offset f/r: 38mm f&r
Tire Size f/r: 245/40/18 (f), 265/35/18 (r)
Suspension Setup: Tein Basic Coilovers
Comment On Ride: Nice and smooth. It's much firmer than stock with the Teins and 18's it rides well IMO
Fender Modifications: None
Any other comments: I absolutely love the HP Evo's on a Platinum SC. I'm not sure yet if they clear TT or LS400 4 piston calipers, but I will soon find out. Still running stock brakes for now.Picture:
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Old 04-13-05, 02:49 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeremyp111
I'm already in the first post, but here's more details.

CL Member Name: Jeremyp111
Rim Brand and Type: HP Evo
Rim Size f/r: 18x8 (f), 18x9 (r)
Rim Offset f/r: 38mm f&r
Tire Size f/r: 245/40/18 (f), 265/35/18 (r)
Suspension Setup: Stock (for now), Tein Basic Coilovers are on the way.
Comment On Ride: Stock - very comfortable with no rubbing at all. It's noticeably stiffer than the stock 16's used to be.
Fender Modifications: None
Any other comments: I absolutely love the HP Evo's on a Platinum SC. I'm not sure yet if they clear TT or LS400 4 piston calipers, but I will soon find out. Still running stock brakes for now.Picture:
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I can confirm this setup. A buddy of mine has the same set and his experiences are exactly the same. Looks killer too~!
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Old 04-14-05, 02:37 AM   #28
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awesome thread!!!!!!! i love it
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Old 04-14-05, 06:56 PM   #29
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guys i really need help here
i got rims but now need to buy the right tires can anybody help me with the size of tires i need?
i got 19x8 all around with a +30 offset what tires should i buy???
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Old 04-14-05, 07:00 PM   #30
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235/35/19 would be good for them
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Old 04-14-05, 07:00 PM
 
 
 
 
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