Kira X

iTrader: (24)

How do you take off the cover/lense for the cornering lights? I would like to swap out the bulbs with new LED ones.

JayCaz

iTrader: (1)

I'm confused, who is rich...

O. L. T.

iTrader: (17)

Bro it is the very first line in this thread.

Str8sikk

iTrader: (2)

hah first line.. classic

JayCaz

iTrader: (1)

Cousin I got it now.

Being that you seem to know bout electrical components I thought I would ask if my method would work, was expecting an answer not being sent somewhere else and adding to thread or what not.

Thanks for taking time to reply atleast.

darren400

I'd like to do the cornering lights into fog lights but my problem is is that I live it the great "commonwealth of Virginia" and that with fog lights they need to turn off automatically when the high beams are turned on in order to pass the state inspection... So, has anyone else had to deal with this problem and if so is there a way to do the conversion so that when the low beams are on the fogs work but when switching to high they go out

JayCaz

iTrader: (1)

This is what I'm trying to achieve as well, in most states that have safety inspection the fogs do need to be off when high beams come on. I believe if you grab power from the low-beams wires it should turn off your fogs.
If you grab power from side-markers they will not be turning off when high-beams are on. That is why I'm trying to figure out if grabbing power from each side is safe, I don't really want to run a relay but it looks like I'll be doing the relay method. Most of my instructors keep telling me this is the safest way.

darren400

I feel that there is no way around the relay and that it will have to be used and as far as running off the low beams all said and done the low beams don't turn off when the highs are turned on so I feel the turns will still have power to them. JMO...Let me know if you come up with something, and I will the same

JayCaz

iTrader: (1)

You're right they do stay on...hmm

KahnBB6

iTrader: (5)

Bringing this back again but I felt it was better to address my question in the relevant thread than to create another one. I have searched quite a bit about this on the forums and via Google and Youtube but to no avail.

I have used O.L.T.'s guide and most of it was very clear but the section about rigging the switch was very abbreviated. Where exactly am I to draw my relay switch power source (for the "trigger") for my foglight conversion? I haven't ever done an electrical project like this before so I am learning as I go.

Do I actually splice into the driver's side wiring harness for my parking lights or can I take the signal from a fuse box area under the hood or in the driver's footwell?

MstrTech

If you want the fog/corner lights to come on with the head lights and go off with the high beams you will need to set the system up with a relay that triggers on when the lights are on and triggers off when the high beams are turned on.

darren400

Thanks for the info...and not to sound like an idiot , but could you draw pictures.... really, what wires will go were
thanks again

KahnBB6

iTrader: (5)

Unfortunately there are no pictures for this writeup. The good news is that other than a few important Lexus SC specific wiring notes that O.L.T. kindly put into his writeup the fog light relay harness design is totally universal! Almost any writeup online with a DIY aftermarket foglight setup with pictures should be nearly the same thing.

Differences are the Lexus color coded wiring and the need for 97+ fog light end connectors if you have done a bumper conversion. But that's very easy.

What I was asking about in my last post was how to wire up a dash mounted interior switch for the fog lights, which wasn't explicitly discussed. O.L.T.'s trigger switch functions just the same but without the switch. I eventually made a thread showing how to do this but it is more work to pull wires in through the driver's fender well.

The foglight conversion is not as hard as it sounds. The original writeup is actually very thorough even without the pictures. It helps to have separate black and red spools of wire and crimp connectors for clean, easy to understand wiring connections. I'd also recommend small plastic flex tubing to make it all clean when you're done but it isn't necessary.

MstrTech

I'm new to this forum, (and forums in general), can you send a j-peg in a PM? If so I'll do up a detailed drawing with some pictures to boot...

Otherwise, here's a detailed description.

1. Isolate the turn lights from the turn signal controls. (Cut the power and ground wires a few inches from the lights; you will be running new wires to the lights to cover the extra wattage demands that actual fog lights place on the system)

2. Run 14-16 AWG (American Wire Gauge) wires from the lights to a Radio Shack plastic project box placed as close to the underhood fuse box as you can. Secure the box wherever there's room and it looks good, but keep it close to the fuse box. (More on the box size and details later) Don't connect to anything just yet, just route the wires neatly to the box and leave about 6" or so extra at the box.

3. Run an 18 - 22 AWG wire from the hot side of the left high beam and the left low beam headlight wires to the R Shack box, leave an extra 6" on these also. Unplug the headlights and check with a test light while the lights are all on to find the hot wire. (Or you can use a wiring diagram, but I'm trying to write this so no diagrams are needed.)
We're using the left lights because they are closer to the fuse box making the wires easier to run. Also, you only need 20 gauge wire or so because this is only a signal wire with very low amperage.

Important: Put a 5 amp in-line fuse as close to the connection to the lights as possible to protect the headlight system from blowing it's fuse and leaving you without lights if the signal wires were to short for some reason.

4. Run a 14 AWG wire from the under hood fuse block to the plastic box with the rest of the wires, (there should be an open position in the fuse block to install one of those square fuseable link fuses with the clear plastic top, using one of those is the best and cleanest way to do it. Otherwise, tap into the main input and use an inline fuse.)

5. Now that all the wires are in place, its time to decide how to do the relay setup. The control can be setup using some transisters, resisters and a single relay, this is the prefered method but is complex, I'll cover this when I can post some pictures and have more time.
The other way uses two relays as I mentioned above. You will need two standard DPDT automotive relays, they have to have both 87 & 87a output terminals. The other terminals are 30 (input voltage) 85 & 86 (coil trigger). 87 is normal open and 87a is normal closed.

6. Final wiring: Run all the wires into the RS Project box, (needs to be big enough to fit both relays and leave room to fit wires. 3" x 6" x 2" deep works well.) Use black silicone to seal the wire holes to keep water and dirt out.

7. Run the power wire from the main fuse box to terminal 30 on relay A. (use a marker and mark the relays A and B) Connect the high beam wire to terminal 85, connect terminal 86 to ground. Run a jumper from 87a on relay A to terminal 30 on relay B, use 14 AWG for the jumper. Connect low beam wire to terminal 85 on relay B and connect terminal 86 on relay B to ground. Now connect the wires from the fog/corner lights to terminal 87 on relay B.


8. If its all correct terminal 87 on relay A will not be connected to anything, nor will 87a on relay B.
Now put the relays into the box and seal it closed. Put all the fuses in, hope all the fuses have been out till now. If it's all wired right no fuses will blow and the corner lights will come on with the low beams and go off when the high beams are turned on.

Good luck, post if you have any problems or questions.

MstrTech

Just a quick side note. To keep from melting the housings you can use low wattage fog lamps, 35W or so max, or maybe 5W LED's.

You have to install aftermarket lights and reflectors if you want the light pointing forward anyway. When I get around to doing mine I'll post a complete how to with pictures, I'm planning to use high output 20 watt (= about 130W per light regular halogen) Surface Mount LED's... Gotta heat sink and forced air cool them or they overheat and burn out, but WoW they are bright though, ultra white light too.

OR... You can vent the housing and add a forced air cooling tube to keep the temperature under control.

This is how I plan to do mine, it won't be for a while though, I want to put a body kit on first.

(Any suggestions for a good body kit for a '94 SC 400?)

Also here's a link that has a diagram and tab layout for the relay needed for the light wiring.

http://www.qualitydist.net/pico-5591pt.html#specs

Good luck...
And "Let there be LIGHT!"