Originally Posted by darren400
Thanks for the info...and not to sound like an idiot
, but could you draw pictures.... really, what wires will go were
I'm new to this forum, (and forums in general), can you send a j-peg in a PM? If so I'll do up a detailed drawing with some pictures to boot...
Otherwise, here's a detailed description.
1. Isolate the turn lights from the turn signal controls. (Cut the power and ground wires a few inches from the lights; you will be running new wires to the lights to cover the extra wattage demands that actual fog lights place on the system)
2. Run 14-16 AWG (American Wire Gauge) wires from the lights to a Radio Shack plastic project box placed as close to the underhood fuse box as you can. Secure the box wherever there's room and it looks good, but keep it close to the fuse box. (More on the box size and details later) Don't connect to anything just yet, just route the wires neatly to the box and leave about 6" or so extra at the box.
3. Run an 18 - 22 AWG wire from the hot side of the left high beam and the left low beam headlight wires to the R Shack box, leave an extra 6" on these also. Unplug the headlights and check with a test light while the lights are all on to find the hot wire. (Or you can use a wiring diagram, but I'm trying to write this so no diagrams are needed.)
We're using the left lights because they are closer to the fuse box making the wires easier to run. Also, you only need 20 gauge wire or so because this is only a signal wire with very low amperage.
Important: Put a 5 amp in-line fuse as close to the connection to the lights as possible to protect the headlight system from blowing it's fuse and leaving you without lights if the signal wires were to short for some reason.
4. Run a 14 AWG wire from the under hood fuse block to the plastic box with the rest of the wires, (there should be an open position in the fuse block to install one of those square fuseable link fuses with the clear plastic top, using one of those is the best and cleanest way to do it. Otherwise, tap into the main input and use an inline fuse.)
5. Now that all the wires are in place, its time to decide how to do the relay setup. The control can be setup using some transisters, resisters and a single relay, this is the prefered method but is complex, I'll cover this when I can post some pictures and have more time.
The other way uses two relays as I mentioned above. You will need two standard DPDT automotive relays, they have to have both 87 & 87a output terminals. The other terminals are 30 (input voltage) 85 & 86 (coil trigger). 87 is normal open and 87a is normal closed.
6. Final wiring: Run all the wires into the RS Project box, (needs to be big enough to fit both relays and leave room to fit wires. 3" x 6" x 2" deep works well.) Use black silicone to seal the wire holes to keep water and dirt out.
7. Run the power wire from the main fuse box to terminal 30 on relay A. (use a marker and mark the relays A and B) Connect the high beam wire to terminal 85, connect terminal 86 to ground. Run a jumper from 87a on relay A to terminal 30 on relay B, use 14 AWG for the jumper. Connect low beam wire to terminal 85 on relay B and connect terminal 86 on relay B to ground. Now connect the wires from the fog/corner lights to terminal 87 on relay B.
8. If its all correct terminal 87 on relay A will not be connected to anything, nor will 87a on relay B.
Now put the relays into the box and seal it closed. Put all the fuses in, hope all the fuses have been out till now. If it's all wired right no fuses will blow and the corner lights will come on with the low beams and go off when the high beams are turned on.
Good luck, post if you have any problems or questions.