SC300 Weight Reduction Worksheet
#301
Lead Lap
iTrader: (8)
Im not one for Murphy's law and have driven for over a year with no spare and no flat. However, when I search the Nissan T145/80D17 I get a standard black steel rim. Are there any stamps on the inside of that rim, or specs for it? Those might be a viable option for front drag skinnies and a spare
Here's what is stamped on the back of the spokes:
ENKEI 5
JK00A
SK59
J DOT
NISSAN
17x4T
30
N05A-740
I hadn't even noticed the Enkei aspect until just now... Bonus!
It's 5x114.3 and 66.1mm hub bore. Adapter ring not really needed but WTH.
Edit: The tire is used on a lot of Nissan/Infiniti sport coupes, so maybe one of the high end models has the alloy as an upgraded element? Oh, and look at the RX-7 for another possibility. It supposedly has a 25 lb alloy; 135x7 I think.
Last edited by t2d2; 08-29-16 at 04:15 PM.
#303
Lead Lap
iTrader: (8)
Here's another one I don't recall seeing mentioned: hood blanket/liner = 2 lb 2 oz with plastic fasteners. I was expecting half or less that amount, so that was a pleasant surprise.
I did my homework before removing it and found the expected answers: noise insulation, fire/heat suppressant. However, there appears to be little but snake oil salesmanship behind any of it. Safety responders report it making virtually no difference in suppressing engine fires (besides, I've yet to have one and don't plan to start now) -- the plastic tabs melt, allowing the fiberglass blanket to drop. Some say it helps protect the hood paint from damage due to engine heat, but many more say it makes no difference. (Some people cut out just the middle portion of the blanket and refasten it above the engine.) The people who do report problems seem to be those with the intake manifold off to the side and engine heat closer to the hood underside. And even noise insulation is hotly contested, with just as many people saying they couldn't tell a difference. I haven't driven it yet to see for myself, but even if it's louder, who cares? I want to hear the V8!
However, heat is definitely somewhat of an issue. The plastic clips above the engine all shattered upon removal, while the perimeter ones came out intact. The central ones were obviously cooked.
I did my homework before removing it and found the expected answers: noise insulation, fire/heat suppressant. However, there appears to be little but snake oil salesmanship behind any of it. Safety responders report it making virtually no difference in suppressing engine fires (besides, I've yet to have one and don't plan to start now) -- the plastic tabs melt, allowing the fiberglass blanket to drop. Some say it helps protect the hood paint from damage due to engine heat, but many more say it makes no difference. (Some people cut out just the middle portion of the blanket and refasten it above the engine.) The people who do report problems seem to be those with the intake manifold off to the side and engine heat closer to the hood underside. And even noise insulation is hotly contested, with just as many people saying they couldn't tell a difference. I haven't driven it yet to see for myself, but even if it's louder, who cares? I want to hear the V8!
However, heat is definitely somewhat of an issue. The plastic clips above the engine all shattered upon removal, while the perimeter ones came out intact. The central ones were obviously cooked.
#304
Lexus Champion
iTrader: (18)
Same here. When I searched for it to get the story behind the wheel, all I found was steelies. The guy found it in a shipping container he bought, so who knows where it came from. The warning sticker was in English, though, so not a JDM item.
Here's what is stamped on the back of the spokes:
ENKEI 5
JK00A
SK59
J DOT
NISSAN
17x4T
30
N05A-740
I hadn't even noticed the Enkei aspect until just now... Bonus!
It's 5x114.3 and 66.1mm hub bore, so I'll need to pick up a 66.1-60.1 ring. I could probably get by without it for temporary use, but no point putting that extra wear and tear on the studs.
Edit: The tire is used on a lot of Nissan/Infiniti sport coupes, so maybe one of the high end models has the alloy as an upgraded element? Oh, and look at the RX-7 for another possibility. It supposedly has a 25 lb alloy; 135x17 I think.
Here's what is stamped on the back of the spokes:
ENKEI 5
JK00A
SK59
J DOT
NISSAN
17x4T
30
N05A-740
I hadn't even noticed the Enkei aspect until just now... Bonus!
It's 5x114.3 and 66.1mm hub bore, so I'll need to pick up a 66.1-60.1 ring. I could probably get by without it for temporary use, but no point putting that extra wear and tear on the studs.
Edit: The tire is used on a lot of Nissan/Infiniti sport coupes, so maybe one of the high end models has the alloy as an upgraded element? Oh, and look at the RX-7 for another possibility. It supposedly has a 25 lb alloy; 135x17 I think.
Found the info for it. That wheel is the spare for 07-09 Infinity G35's. They go for about $120-150 per wheel/tire. I wouldnt mind having 3 of them, 1 for a spare, and 2 for the track. Thanks for posting up the info
#305
Lead Lap
iTrader: (8)
I've got a set of Nissan-Toyota hub rings on order. As soon as those arrive I'll mount the spare and see if I can get some rough caliper clearance measurements. The spokes are pretty heavily curved, so I think they'll leave plenty of room. Yeah, I know I don't need the hub ring to do so, but I might as well confirm the fitment of everything at once.
#306
Lead Lap
iTrader: (8)
As promised, here's a few pics of the Nissan spare. The 66.1-60.1mm hub ring fits perfect, and the spokes have lots of clearance for the stock SC400 front calipers. Quite likely enough for LS400 calipers, even. Maybe a small spacer would be needed, but only like 3-5mm I'm guessing.
The one thing I didn't like is the Toyota lug nuts are a bit iffy on it. The Nissan lug nuts must be a much narrower spline, because the holes in the wheel don't allow the Toyota ones to thread in more than halfway. The base of the nut presses the wheel in, which is probably sufficient for very limited use, but the lip and washer don't make contact.
The one thing I didn't like is the Toyota lug nuts are a bit iffy on it. The Nissan lug nuts must be a much narrower spline, because the holes in the wheel don't allow the Toyota ones to thread in more than halfway. The base of the nut presses the wheel in, which is probably sufficient for very limited use, but the lip and washer don't make contact.
#308
Lead Lap
iTrader: (8)
Yeah, they have a tapered lip to the seat, which I guess is conical? I have some aftermarket lug nuts from the wheels that came on the car. It might be worth seeing if they fit the holes better. They don't work great with the stock wheels, though, so I would have to carry a set of 5 with the spare, unless going to aftermarket wheels altogether.
Do Weld lug nuts work for both styles? I'm not familiar with them.
Do Weld lug nuts work for both styles? I'm not familiar with them.
#309
Lexus Champion
iTrader: (18)
Yeah, they have a tapered lip to the seat, which I guess is conical? I have some aftermarket lug nuts from the wheels that came on the car. It might be worth seeing if they fit the holes better. They don't work great with the stock wheels, though, so I would have to carry a set of 5 with the spare, unless going to aftermarket wheels altogether.
Do Weld lug nuts work for both styles? I'm not familiar with them.
Do Weld lug nuts work for both styles? I'm not familiar with them.
Edit: happened to be on the phone with a buddy of mine while typing this, and he has an 07 G35 with the same spare, and yes its a conical lug nut. So an aftermarket set of lugs may work just fine.
#310
Lead Lap
iTrader: (8)
Convenient timing. I'll report back if I discover otherwise with my aftermarket lug nuts, in the unlikely event the holes are some funky size.
Here's another one, since I'm on a roll: rear tie-down hooks = 4 lb 4 oz (4 bolts left in for muffler mounts). I assume there's another 2+ lbs to be had with the front hook, but that's a bit more involved to get to. It's just the one on the pass. side, I think? Gotta squeeze back under the car to be sure... (Edit: Nope, there's one on each side. That's what I get for trusting the convoluted FSM!)
Here's another one, since I'm on a roll: rear tie-down hooks = 4 lb 4 oz (4 bolts left in for muffler mounts). I assume there's another 2+ lbs to be had with the front hook, but that's a bit more involved to get to. It's just the one on the pass. side, I think? Gotta squeeze back under the car to be sure... (Edit: Nope, there's one on each side. That's what I get for trusting the convoluted FSM!)
Last edited by t2d2; 11-26-14 at 09:07 AM.
#312
Pole Position
iTrader: (20)
Lexan windows, flat panel bottom and diffuser going on. Had been running without door or rear glass for a while, but it was not good for aero, especially with the wing.
Picked up an 48"X96" UV Lexan sheet for $60, from Regal Plastics here in Houston. Need to get another sheet for the front windshield. I'm not sure how much the stock windows weigh as I broke them out with a air hammer. Guessing about 25-45lbs weight savings over glass.
Picked up an 48"X96" UV Lexan sheet for $60, from Regal Plastics here in Houston. Need to get another sheet for the front windshield. I'm not sure how much the stock windows weigh as I broke them out with a air hammer. Guessing about 25-45lbs weight savings over glass.
#313
Lead Lap
iTrader: (8)
Is it normally that cheap? I thought it was similar in price to plexiglass.
I saw an interesting suggestion in an RX-7 forum for cutting weight without sacrificing all of the related comforts: replace the moon roof glass with a CF panel. That way, you still have a functional sunroof. Of course, you could also replace it with lexan for perhaps comparable weight savings and still get the daylight with the roof closed. Hmm, that sort of makes me want to order a much needed new seal and cut/tint a lexan panel...
I saw an interesting suggestion in an RX-7 forum for cutting weight without sacrificing all of the related comforts: replace the moon roof glass with a CF panel. That way, you still have a functional sunroof. Of course, you could also replace it with lexan for perhaps comparable weight savings and still get the daylight with the roof closed. Hmm, that sort of makes me want to order a much needed new seal and cut/tint a lexan panel...
#315
Lead Lap
iTrader: (8)
35 lbs is for the whole sunroof assembly, I assume, not just the glass? I took my glass out this summer in an attempt to fill out the gasket/seal/weatherstrip to reduce wind noise, and I don't recall it being more than 10-15 lbs.
Another option is a Lexan insert minus the motor and track. That would get you as close to the weight of a sunroof delete as possible, while still having the daylight when you want it (which is all the time!).