SC300 Weight Reduction Worksheet
03-15-14, 10:47 AM
#286
From what I read people that had an issue with the belt coming off had bad tensioners. I have that extra stock bracket Highlighted in yellow.
I'm pretty sure I used Supraforums info for the belt. If it isn't correct you could always return it for the correct size. Or the driftmotion one is definitely correct.
http://www.supraforums.com/forum/arc...12ae829b29dd77
73.5" long
napa part number 25-060747
http://www.driftmotion.com/2JZ-serpe...lt-p/dm247.htm
I'm pretty sure I used Supraforums info for the belt. If it isn't correct you could always return it for the correct size. Or the driftmotion one is definitely correct.
http://www.supraforums.com/forum/arc...12ae829b29dd77
73.5" long
napa part number 25-060747
http://www.driftmotion.com/2JZ-serpe...lt-p/dm247.htm
Last edited by fried_rice; 03-18-14 at 08:03 PM.
11-16-14, 12:55 PM
#290
This might be a crazy idea, so feel free to tell me I'm crazy. 
Rather than replacing the hood with a carbon fiber one -- expensive, fragile, hit or miss whether supports and latch work -- would it be possible to cut out the center portion and replace the steel with fiberglass? I've never worked with fiberglass, but it's something I've been wanting to tackle since it would come in handy for so many projects. I'm thinking this could cut ~60% of the steel out of the hood (15-20 lbs weight savings), while keeping the overall rigidity and support/latch points intact. Following the v-shape raised portion in the center of the hood would be the natural cut line.
How hard is it to bond fiberglass to steel to make something like that work? I'm assuming it's either fairly thick steel or double layered, so there may be some way to leave bits (fingers) of a lower layer or ground down top layer extending into the cutout to give the fiberglass something to bond to.
Feasible, or total waste of effort?
Rather than replacing the hood with a carbon fiber one -- expensive, fragile, hit or miss whether supports and latch work -- would it be possible to cut out the center portion and replace the steel with fiberglass? I've never worked with fiberglass, but it's something I've been wanting to tackle since it would come in handy for so many projects. I'm thinking this could cut ~60% of the steel out of the hood (15-20 lbs weight savings), while keeping the overall rigidity and support/latch points intact. Following the v-shape raised portion in the center of the hood would be the natural cut line.
How hard is it to bond fiberglass to steel to make something like that work? I'm assuming it's either fairly thick steel or double layered, so there may be some way to leave bits (fingers) of a lower layer or ground down top layer extending into the cutout to give the fiberglass something to bond to.
Feasible, or total waste of effort?
11-16-14, 08:22 PM
#291
Lexus Champion
This might be a crazy idea, so feel free to tell me I'm crazy.
Rather than replacing the hood with a carbon fiber one -- expensive, fragile, hit or miss whether supports and latch work -- would it be possible to cut out the center portion and replace the steel with fiberglass? I've never worked with fiberglass, but it's something I've been wanting to tackle since it would come in handy for so many projects. I'm thinking this could cut ~60% of the steel out of the hood (15-20 lbs weight savings), while keeping the overall rigidity and support/latch points intact. Following the v-shape raised portion in the center of the hood would be the natural cut line.
How hard is it to bond fiberglass to steel to make something like that work? I'm assuming it's either fairly thick steel or double layered, so there may be some way to leave bits (fingers) of a lower layer or ground down top layer extending into the cutout to give the fiberglass something to bond to.
Feasible, or total waste of effort?
Rather than replacing the hood with a carbon fiber one -- expensive, fragile, hit or miss whether supports and latch work -- would it be possible to cut out the center portion and replace the steel with fiberglass? I've never worked with fiberglass, but it's something I've been wanting to tackle since it would come in handy for so many projects. I'm thinking this could cut ~60% of the steel out of the hood (15-20 lbs weight savings), while keeping the overall rigidity and support/latch points intact. Following the v-shape raised portion in the center of the hood would be the natural cut line.
How hard is it to bond fiberglass to steel to make something like that work? I'm assuming it's either fairly thick steel or double layered, so there may be some way to leave bits (fingers) of a lower layer or ground down top layer extending into the cutout to give the fiberglass something to bond to.
Feasible, or total waste of effort?
11-16-14, 09:08 PM
#292
i don't think you know how strong carbon fiber is? just 3 plys of it is like double layer brick wall. it's some insane stuff. i have carbon fiber landing gear for my quadrotor drone and i can stand on it, i'm 200 lbs and the gear is like quarter inch thick tubes of CF. it's magical seriously, it's mind blowingly strong.
11-17-14, 05:45 AM
#293
I cut the innards out of the stock hood, it was a PITA and only saved about 10-15lbs bringing the hood from 62 pound to around 50lbs. My carbon Fiber/fiberglass hood weighs around 20lbs and is stronger than the OEM hood with the innards cut out. They also make hood struts specifically for the carbon fiber hoods that are made for the lightweight hood.
My car is at 2500lbs dry weight with more weight to come out soon.
I picked up my hood and trunk for $400.
My car is at 2500lbs dry weight with more weight to come out soon.
I picked up my hood and trunk for $400.
Last edited by fried_rice; 11-17-14 at 05:49 AM.
11-17-14, 08:30 AM
#294
I cut the innards out of the stock hood, it was a PITA and only saved about 10-15lbs bringing the hood from 62 pound to around 50lbs. My carbon Fiber/fiberglass hood weighs around 20lbs and is stronger than the OEM hood with the innards cut out. They also make hood struts specifically for the carbon fiber hoods that are made for the lightweight hood.
My car is at 2500lbs dry weight with more weight to come out soon.
My car is at 2500lbs dry weight with more weight to come out soon.
When you say you cut the innards out, are you talking about the same thing I suggested, removing the center portion of the hood, or did you remove the under layer of steel all the way across?
Sub-2500 lbs must be quite the experience with these cars! I'm looking to get mine under 3500 without affecting the stock look and feel, so my goals are a bit less ambitious than yours.
11-17-14, 09:38 AM
#295
I basically made a mold of the doors/hood/trunk. I used mold release wax on the stock parts and laid fiberglass over the top. I was rushed while making them and they didn't come out very good, $200 in supplies. I'll be re-making the doors in Carbon fiber soon. I found the hood and trunk on Craigslist used, they had been in a field for years.
I removed the under-hood layers and bracing. All that was left was the hinge supports, latch and the top layer of steel. Personally I don't think it was worth the time effort, the hood would flex pretty bad when lifted. The trunk would definitely not be worth it to loose 5 lbs off a 25lb trunk.
The car is a completely different animal at 2500lbs and LS1. Handling is amazing with over 2 lateral g's and near 50/50 weight distribution. With my upcoming power mods I should be the same power/weight ratio of a stock weight SC with 650RWHP, at only 440RWHP.
With no suspension tuning, 22k/18k spring rates; I'm about 3 seconds a lap off the class leader, which is a $500k tube frame/Carbon Fiber Corvette, and the car is 50-75rwhp under his power/weight ratio.
My next weight reduction mods will be Lexan windows, cutting all excess steel from the interior pillars and body panels, tube framing the floor with aluminum sheet metal, and re-doing the trunk firewall with aluminum sheet metal. That should be worth 100-200lbs. Full aluminum/carbon fiber flat panel bottom and diffuser.
I removed the under-hood layers and bracing. All that was left was the hinge supports, latch and the top layer of steel. Personally I don't think it was worth the time effort, the hood would flex pretty bad when lifted. The trunk would definitely not be worth it to loose 5 lbs off a 25lb trunk.
The car is a completely different animal at 2500lbs and LS1. Handling is amazing with over 2 lateral g's and near 50/50 weight distribution. With my upcoming power mods I should be the same power/weight ratio of a stock weight SC with 650RWHP, at only 440RWHP.
With no suspension tuning, 22k/18k spring rates; I'm about 3 seconds a lap off the class leader, which is a $500k tube frame/Carbon Fiber Corvette, and the car is 50-75rwhp under his power/weight ratio.My next weight reduction mods will be Lexan windows, cutting all excess steel from the interior pillars and body panels, tube framing the floor with aluminum sheet metal, and re-doing the trunk firewall with aluminum sheet metal. That should be worth 100-200lbs. Full aluminum/carbon fiber flat panel bottom and diffuser.
Shoot. I was actually going to ask you how you did up your fiberglass hood/trunk... It looks like you layered over the stock units as a template? I assume you ended up purchasing ones to replace the DIY ones, though? Where did you find both for $400?? That's less than half the price of anything I've seen. Must've been used?
When you say you cut the innards out, are you talking about the same thing I suggested, removing the center portion of the hood, or did you remove the under layer of steel all the way across?
Sub-2500 lbs must be quite the experience with these cars! I'm looking to get mine under 3500 without affecting the stock look and feel, so my goals are a bit less ambitious than yours.
When you say you cut the innards out, are you talking about the same thing I suggested, removing the center portion of the hood, or did you remove the under layer of steel all the way across?
Sub-2500 lbs must be quite the experience with these cars! I'm looking to get mine under 3500 without affecting the stock look and feel, so my goals are a bit less ambitious than yours.
11-17-14, 02:00 PM
#296
Cool, thanks for the explanation of the process. That'll provide a good starting point if I decide to try something. Nice craigslist find. There are so few SCs around here (only one advertised in town currently and it's been up for ages), odds of finding cool parts like that are pretty slim.
Okay, so you sort of took the opposite approach of what I was suggesting. You kept the top layer but removed the bracing. I'm envisioning removing the top layer in the center portion of the hood (following the raised v-shape and leaving front/back portions by the hood latch and washer nozzles), and trying to maintain some of that lower bracing that you removed for attaching (not sure how exactly) the fiberglass insert to.
What you discovered is what I would expect: the bracing doesn't account for significant weight. The bulk of the weight is bound to be the big chunk of sheet metal on top, and at least half of that can be removed. That said, it would suck to get through the cutout step of the process and determine that the hood is too flexy even with the bracing still there...
There are so few SCs around here (only one advertised in town currently and it's been up for ages), odds of finding cool parts like that are pretty slim.What you discovered is what I would expect: the bracing doesn't account for significant weight. The bulk of the weight is bound to be the big chunk of sheet metal on top, and at least half of that can be removed. That said, it would suck to get through the cutout step of the process and determine that the hood is too flexy even with the bracing still there...
11-18-14, 11:33 AM
#297
I studied up today...
http://www.carbonfiberdiy.com/2012/1...ction-how.html
Holy moly, no wonder real CF products are so expensive!
FWIW, I think that dude is the most professional presenter I've ever seen in a DIY video.
http://www.carbonfiberdiy.com/2012/1...ction-how.html
Holy moly, no wonder real CF products are so expensive!
FWIW, I think that dude is the most professional presenter I've ever seen in a DIY video.
11-20-14, 05:00 PM
#299
This might interest some people... I picked up my new spare today, a Nissan T145/80D17 alloy weighing in at a svelte 25 lb 13 oz, good for a 22 lb 9 oz savings over the full size steel pig (48 lb 6 oz). It's within like 0.1" of the stock diameter and actually looks nice enough that you wouldn't be ashamed to be seen with it on if needed.
For those who believe in Murphy's Law (not carrying a spare ensures a flat!), this is some light weight peace of mind. It's a wide enough rim that I could probably put a regular 155 or 165 tire on it at some point and not be limited by the Temporary designation. Oh, and it was only $20, so less than a buck a pound savings!
For those who believe in Murphy's Law (not carrying a spare ensures a flat!), this is some light weight peace of mind. It's a wide enough rim that I could probably put a regular 155 or 165 tire on it at some point and not be limited by the Temporary designation. Oh, and it was only $20, so less than a buck a pound savings!
11-20-14, 05:28 PM
#300
This might interest some people... I picked up my new spare today, a Nissan T145/80D17 alloy weighing in at a svelte 25 lb 13 oz, good for a 22 lb 9 oz savings over the full size steel pig (48 lb 6 oz). It's within like 0.1" of the stock diameter and actually looks nice enough that you wouldn't be ashamed to be seen with it on if needed.
For those who believe in Murphy's Law (not carrying a spare ensures a flat!), this is some light weight peace of mind. It's a wide enough rim that I could probably put a regular 155 or 165 tire on it at some point and not be limited by the Temporary designation. Oh, and it was only $20, so less than a buck a pound savings!
For those who believe in Murphy's Law (not carrying a spare ensures a flat!), this is some light weight peace of mind. It's a wide enough rim that I could probably put a regular 155 or 165 tire on it at some point and not be limited by the Temporary designation. Oh, and it was only $20, so less than a buck a pound savings!
