soaringlex

Here is a good log on the weight of an sc300... seems like 2900 lbs with a cage is possible(also a great in progress race build)

http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/for...0/75586/page1/

fried_rice

iTrader: (20)

I'm doing a chumpcar build too, as I was inspired by that guy. I've completely gutted my car and plan to weld on the door skins, etc. It will definitely be around 2600lbs empty weight without the cage.
Stuff I've weighed, I am forgetting some things and have previously posted some of these numbers. Going to be removing all windows and may put lexan up front.
215-doors w/glass etc 80lbs each without panels or speakers etc
100-coomplete body harness and extra ecu's etc. and some misc crap in a box
15-floor deadning
10-firewall deadning
35-HVAC
62.5-hood
25-trunk
25-gas tank
50-spare and jack
50-exhaust
5-brakes
130- seats
35-sunroof
34-rear seats
17-ACcompressor
15-AC components
10-ABS
25-Steering column w/ wheel
20-cutting rear firewall out
10-cutting rear trunk area out

LEXXIUM

iTrader: (1)

You really goin on a diet!!!
I dont know why my spare weighs more than yours, may be a tire? But I get better weight savings
Im getting another sc for diet maybe

estomax

iTrader: (2)

spare was the first thing i pulled out. damn heavy!

i have a hard time believing the rear seats are 34 lbs, how did you get that? including some brackets or heavier stuff? because they are literally just foam.

fried_rice

iTrader: (20)

My spare was bald and weighed 42lbs. I didn't weigh the jack, just kinda estimated a total of about 50lbs. I weighed the seats to ship a couple months ago, They don't feel that heavy because you usually pick them up one piece at a time, pick the bottom and top up at the same time and you'll see the weigh 30+. They're pretty wide.

bigwhite

When you delete the rear seats, you can also remove the rear seat belts and a few brackets. There is also 2 thin steel plates that are bolted to the floor to match where the seat bottoms hang over the frame.

2Poor2Buy

I've been inclined to use Supra/SC/IS suspension in a lightweight body, and lately am planning another version I still can't afford, but a severely stripped (but still street legal) SC300 / 5-speed is certainly my first choice; it might be the cheapest way to get what I want and what I've been contemplating for years. (Have owned two Supra MkIII's, one NA 5-speed, one turbo automatic (his and hers with my ex-wife); I preferred the NA due to quicker response, kept them pristine and was active in SOGI in the 90's; but had even more fun with my 75 Celica Frankenstein Build because I could thrash on it around tight corners and used to do something I've only learned the name of recently: bootleg turn). My Supras were too heavy (and valuable) for such behavior. My current thrasher is an Integra, but I really want to go back to RWD with limited slip.

All this weight reduction mentioned in the planning stages, but does anyone have any results of whether a stripped SC300 can autocross ( SCCA Solo II ) successfully if sufficiently stripped? (my interest is all at low speeds, where the Chump Car was built for high speed racing)

Of course it would be great if someone was to have objective numbers based on just stripping weight, but that isn't exactly possible: run a particular course, strip the car, and run the exact same course again in exactly the same conditions. However, does anyone have any approximation as to the direct benefit... autocross, slalom, skidpad, 0-60, 1/8th or 1/4 mile? What about drifting and thrashing around?

Before buying a tired SC300 to build such a project, I'd really love to know if it can perform in low speed racing. Personally I'll mostly use it as a street car and rip through the local canyons, and only participate in autocross a few times.

But I tend to drive as if I'm autocrossing no matter where I am. Slow cars are the cones!

fried_rice

iTrader: (20)

I just got my car weighed today. Race weight with 15 gallons of gas is 2840lbs. That includes 140lb roll cage, gutted doors weighing 82lbs for both, a 42lb gutted hood, 25lb trunk, 12lb battery, single Sparco Sprint seat, currently 275/40/17 front and rear wheels and tires 55.5lbs each. Like I wanted, it's under 3,000lbs with me in the car ready to go.

The car handles amazing I was at a PCA DE event this weekend and the car cornered as well as any car on the track. The steering quickner is amazing and makes correcting any issue easy. I ran in the soaking rain and 40 degrees on no tread pattern race tires and could correct huge oversteer, understeer, brake lock up's with no abs, anything that happend the car felt amazing.

I have 18X11 and 315/30/18's ready to go on the car for next track. I'm confident the car will out handle almost any stock frame/suspension car on the road.

Some places and series I can run without the doors or hood, so that takes off another 120lbs. Subtract the cage, gas, hood and doors and you're under 2500lbs.

LEXXIUM

iTrader: (1)

Thats a bad *** interior!!! What's under the hood?
Thanks for sharing!!

fried_rice

iTrader: (20)

The motor is completely stock. It's an original 5spd, salvage title. I've had many swaps from 900rwhp to stock and this has been the most fun to drive because of the weight and steering quickner, I can't say enough about the quickner, it feels like a go-kart with the steering input.. I'm kind of itching to go NA-t FFIM and GTE ECU for about 375rwhp, for the power to weight ratio of the series I may run.

Multi colored, mexican flag themed grren red and white, for now until I spray it anthracite.

LEXXIUM

iTrader: (1)

Very nice and clean engine bay too!!

fried_rice

iTrader: (20)

Completed the hood, trunk and doors in fiberglass. Total weight for all of them is 51 lbs, making it a weight savings of 100lbs from the stock gutted doors and hood. I added a fire suppression system and a seat back brace which added about 50lbs to the car. Complete numbers from this race weekend.

2806lbs-Race weight with 20.6 gallons of gas
2681lbs-Race weight without fuel

marshall2j

Awesome work!! BTW. Did you fab your own bracket to hold the PS pump when you got rid of the AC compressor?

fried_rice

iTrader: (20)

There's no need to use a aftermarket bracket when removing the AC. Just make sure your tensioner is good. I ran many track days, on multiple cars (1jz,2jz), like this and I suck at shifting, miss shifted twice already and never had a problem.

marshall2j

Awesome. I was nervous because people said that you need to fab a bracket. But it seemed very secure to me. What size belt did you use?

Thanks