richma7175

Where can i find the Lexus OEM PDF doc that explains how to take apart the door and window to get to the regulator?

richma7175

Regulator went today on the drivers side, Anyone know if I can use a rear door driver side regulator plastic coupling with the previous described method? Is the coupling mechanically the same? does anyone know ?

O. L. T.

iTrader: (17)

if you can't bend that little rail back strait you didnt need to attempt it anyway. it's gravy.

and.........

proper cleaning is nessesary.

phill

how did you manage to get your hand in the door and be able to use an wrench, mine fell all the way to the bottom, and i can barely get my wrist in , let alone turn the wrench

Tryk

lift the window up a little....

Nomis

O.L.T's guide is easy to follow for the most part, so I won't re-invent the wheel so to speak. What I will say is that to remove the regulator you must remove the two bolts that hold the regulator guide to the window, mine used a 14mm box wrench from the rear -they are square heads. After this remove single nut for the requlator rail at the bottom of the door - you'll see it on the ouside. Then remove the two up at the top - they are inside the door behind two cutouts covered by vinyl oval stickers. You also have to undo the three nuts that hold in the window motor and then you can pull out the entire regulator/motor as a unit. Then follow the rest of O.L.T's guide. This job was a bit of a PITA, but so far so good, it seems to be holding up well so far. Saved myself $400 in parts alone.

Tryk

Let us know when it fails Sorry I just don't have much faith in this fix... I did fix mine one last time using a special epoxy designed for plastic, but since my car is parked for the winter I have not tested it out. I am sure I will end up going to lexus to buy the new regulator unit.

Nomis

[QUOTE=Tryk Racing]Let us know when it fails QUOTE]

Thanks.

inovashn

hey legendary how do you bookmark a thread that would be so helpful in trying to find older stuff that is really useful than all this other bs.

O. L. T.

iTrader: (17)

Funny, i did it the right way (as described) and mine has been in sicne the start of this thread. Amazing how that works out Most people do not get all the excessive oils out of the plastic before they epoxy. If i had a nickel for everytime........

Nomis

You must have had a lucky break on your regulator. I thoroughly degreased mine, roughed it up with my Dremel and used a liberal amount of the the original formula JB Weld, and mine just broke this morning ! ! !
I couldn't believe it after all that work . I had to wash my mouth out after the verbal garbage that came spewing out of my mouth aimed at the SC. Holy Crap this sux. I'm buying a new motor and regulator. To those who do the fix and it works - great, to those that it breaks again all I can say is that we tried. Now I'm out $400 for a new one.

Tryk

Was it in this thread or another...someone said that you could buy the motor, and rail assembly seperately? Hopefully that is the case as the motor is fine....

I know the frustration...sorry to hear about it. I originally tried doing mine with JBQuick, when that failed I thought ok lets spend more time this round... so I used original JBWeld. I very thouroughly cleaned the plastic. I scored every bit of plastic where the JBWeld would be, using rough sandpaper and/or a sharp pic. I let the JBWeld cure for a full 48 hours. That let go after rolling up the window maybe 5 times or so. I probably won't even bother installing my new fix job using the plastic epoxy. haha what if I am on a road-trip next time it breaks!? It is worth the extra money to buy the part from lexus and know it isn't going to fail.

Nomis

Carson had the whole assembly for around $400. Supposedly, Autozone can get the unit for cheaper, that waits to be seen though.

Nomis

Can it be done correctly and still break again? Yes. I'm glad it worked for others - it saved them quite a bit of money. Had it worked for us, we would have saved money as well. But alas it did not, this doesn't mean that we "did it wrong", and any insinuation to the contrary is a little upsetting. Obviously the plastic fracture lines will be different for each case, this is probably the main factor. Even though mine still broke again - I still appreciate your taking the time to document the fix, O.L.T. It was well worth the time at least to try it (I'm not being sarcastic here).

RalAegidius

After having gone through this issue recently, my personal opinion is that OLT's fix is one that is an option for people who simply cannot afford to have the regulator replaced (BUT, it's not as expensive as you think - see below).

Also my personal opinion: This failure mode for the regulator is the result of stress and age. It's impossible to know for sure how much stress yours has endured. So OLT's fix might work great for some folks, and not for others, depending on how the part has been stressed prior to breaking.

You do not need to bend the rail to get the glass out. It is removable by unscrewing two bolts that attach the bottom of the glass to the mechanism. I believe it takes a 14mm wrench. You can lift the glass up with your hands and prop it up with a stick while working on it.

The regulator and the motor are 2 separate parts, BUT sometimes a dealer or a parts place will bundle them together as 1 part (~$586). When I had mine repaired, my shop was able to get the dealer to sell them JUST the regulator (since the motor worked fine) for $102. So it pays to shop around.

I also recommend getting a NEW part for this fix, rather than a used one, due to the stress issue I discussed above.

Ral