gerrb

iTrader: (34)

You work on these day in and day out so we will rely on your expertise . I will stay with the 50mm rear then. I know R&D isn't cheap specially without sure buyers . I got you .

I know you know better than us when it comes to thes body kits but I really have some reservations on where the tire is just by looking at your last picture and just playing a devil's advocate. So until we see the whole setup in your car with wide rims , it will be tough to decide.



The yellow line is where the deep dish wheel and tire will be flushed...outer side of the fender for the setup to look right (wheel not sunken) . Since the blue line is indented inward as pointed by the red arrow , won't that area in pink oval be on top of the tire and be ripped off when the shock is at play ? Shouldn't it be also pulled outward as shown by the black arrow so the wheel / tire slides in and up when the shock is at play ?

Just thinking loud here , maybe I am just not envisioning it right myself ...sorry, if ever . Also which among the two is sturdier , one with hollow area (with air opening) or one without ... or are just same ?

Blkexcoupe

iTrader: (8)

The area I'm concerned about is the area between the yellow and blue lines in your picture and the part near the front bumper, but my car only has issues with that area on air suspension when I dump the car and tuck tire. I had to swap to a smaller tire that would stretch more to prevent the fender from touching my tire. At ride height I had no clearance issues at all. My car is as low as it gets, since the tire is touching the frame in this picture. The only way to get lower is to cut the stock frame rails and add tubes.




Realistically for your application, your car won't be low enough for it to be a concern if you have properly sized rims and tires. What size tire do you want to run, and are you willing to let it stretch?

If the wheel and tire clears the fender when you're standing still, then movement shouldn't be an issue if the fender is rigid. When the shock compresses the car naturally adds negative camber, so it'll pull the top of the wheel inward away from the fender allowing more clearance.

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

No stretched tires for me .... not into that stretch thing . My SCs are all boosted so I am going wide rims / tires for traction , looks are nice and important of course but secondary to me. It is function first for me . So depending on the width and clearance , I will use as wide rims as can be with the right tires that will be just a bit inside the widest pulled area (45-48mm if the fender is 50mm) so they won't look sunken and fill up as much space as the opening on that wheel well just to look right . . So the 10 - 2 oclock area are the most critical for me. That is , when the car bounches (shock play) because of bad spots on the road at a relatively fast speed , no part of that area of the fender / quarter panel is torn apart.

You are right , when the shock compresses it adds negative camber but that can only be as much ... that is why it all depends on the distance between the widest pulled area and that 10 and 2 oclock area as you have mentioned as your concern too. Just looking at APtech's picture , if I have a set of wheels / tires that are almost flushed at the widest part of that fender and no stretched tires here , the 10 and 2 o'clock part would be sitting on top of the tire. And I hope I am wrong. Those area for me could have followed the pull and the body line gap is not as wide.

Deceptik1

iTrader: (6)

When are you shipping these out?

APTech

iTrader: (1)

19*10 +0 NO CAMBER ADJUSTMENT, slammed car, obviously.

Deceptik1

iTrader: (6)

Is that really 19x10 0? Do you know what size tire is on there? I was hoping to fit 19x10.5 -20.

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

Irving - we really appreciate what you and the gang are doing to make our SCs even look better. Many do not probably understand or even appreciate the amount of work , time and even money poured for all the effort you guys put in especially when there is a very limited market. Enthusiasm , good comments and wishes do not always equate to sales . That is always the case and for what you do for our SC community , many thanks .

More pictures in different angles with that wheel above installed will help us see all the details . The way I see the front fender , it will work well with those with stretched tires , the wheel flushed to the fender and the tire stretched so it goes inside the wheel well .

For us who are boosted , horsepower = speed which means the more patch contact your tires have on the road , the better traction you have. And that doesn't jibe well with stretched tires . Aside from less patch contact , safety will be a concern for us IMHO. I am not against those who love stretched tires , that is their thing and enjoy it, so good for them and I respect that. For us boost junkies , being slammed in which basically there is no shock play isn't the best thing to do depending on the use of the car. With that fender, any shock play will surely tear the fender apart IMHO. It is a matter of time .

Is there a possibility for a version of the fender in which the 10 - 2 o'clock areas gradually follow downward the widest pull of the fender ? That means the gap along the body line between the widest pull and 10-2 o'clock areas won't be as much as shown in your picture .




Something like this ......the pull below the body line will follow the widest pull gradually downward so wheel and tire from 10-2 o'clock are always tucked in.


That in my opinion will better suit us who want wider wheels and tires for more traction .

Blkexcoupe

iTrader: (8)

It's a 235/35/19 rotalla. I was expecting to be able to run a wheel as aggressive as you too, but if those wheel specs are right in the picture, then it is only about 25mm more aggressive than my current setup with rolled oem fenders.

Gerrb is right, we do really appreciate what you're doing. The only reason we ask so many questions is to make sure it'll work in our applications and to help you produce the best product possible.

It is hard to tell from only one picture, but it looks like that little tab at the 2 o'clock position would limit how low my car can air out. It'd be nice to see a picture of where the wheel meets the front bumper. Air suspension isn't as stiff, so I need 100% clearance at the full range of motion in order to protect my wheels and fenders.

If you do decide to do a version 2 like gerrb suggested, then it'll help a lot with keeping the car clean and preventing rock chips since the tire will be covered.

CatManD3W

iTrader: (18)

Agreed the point of making a widebody IMO is to run much larger wheels and tires...i.e more grip and not to run crazy stretched tires.

I with a full 50mm F&R should be able to run a pretty square setup...im thinking 315/30/18 all around.

No offense but the pictures you are taking and provided dont help us out that much. We just want to make sure you are taking are feedback to make it better

APTech

iTrader: (1)

Hi guys,

I think that image makes the "step" seem much more aggressive than it really is, because the vented area IS wider than factory as well, it just tapers down to meet the stock skirt. I'll try and get more pictures asap, but i do depend on my customers for them since i don't have wider wheels to test on my car.

APTech

iTrader: (1)

The car this picture is from is on air up front, the image is aired out. I think the angle of the pic really makes the step look aggressive.




Sigh. Is ANYONE local to 91710 and have some aggressive wheels we can test? I'll hook you up with a sick discount!

Blkexcoupe

iTrader: (8)

That's very possible that the angle of the picture makes it look more aggressive, but I don't think the car is fully dumped in that picture. A 19" wheel should be able to get closer to the wheel lips if the car is setup properly.

Does your car have upgraded brakes? I have a 18x11 +30 with a 275/35/18 and some spacers I can use to test fit. My tires have a small stretch, so I don't know if fitting my wheels will answer all of gerrb's questions, but it'll answer mine. I should have time Thursday morning if you're available.

I'll try to bring some 18x12.5" +24 wheels too if I can get them sealed and tires installed before Thursday morning.

APTech

iTrader: (1)

negative, i'm on stock brakes, haven't bothered putting the LS brakes on it since i don't want them getting scratched up during all the proto work. Thursday should work, i'll pm you my cell phone number so we can keep in touch.

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

I guess I will just have to wait and see other pictures of the setup and other people's experience . I definitely cannot use stretched tires.

Assuming I have the right wheels with the correct offset and design so they can be flushed to the widest pull on the fenders / quarter panels and would accomodate big brakes , what I want to see is where does the 10-2 o'clock fender areas sit . Are they on top of the wide tires or are the tires on that area tucked in whenever the shock is at play or the car bounces ? With wide tires , when I make a full right or left turn or even a U-turn , do the tires rub through those same 10-2 o'clock areas ?

Just like I said , function is more important to me than looks . We will await , maybe we are just not seeing things correctly with one picture !

Blkexcoupe

iTrader: (8)

To give you an idea of how much of a stretch I have on my setup its a 275/35/18 sumitomo which measures roughly 10.5" across the contact patch, so its a little narrower than a traditional 275. The rim measures 11", so its only 95.5% of the way there which is still in the safe range for mounting tires. I can't imagine a need for larger tires in the front even with your hp levels