survyor2

iTrader: (1)

I got a great deal on a 1999 SC300 on Friday. Its got a few issues. A missing main key is one of them. All the previous owner had was the valet key and a piece of the remote. The remote works as it should so that's a good sign. What is my best option to get a fully functional key? I suppose I can transfer the circuit board to a new key. If the dealership is the best option, what would that cost?

Thanks,
Dennis

Luxor

iTrader: (15)

You are lucky that you have the master key remote because you can program another master key with that remote. I first suggest you purchase a new master key shell housing from the dealer and have them use your valet key as the key to trace cut your new master key housing then you can put the remote inside the housing and you will have fully functioning master key. Secondly, buy yourself a used second master key from Ebay. Make sure you buy one that has the same FCC ID as the one you have right now so it will program properly. If you purchase the key complete, the housing will be useless because it's already cut so you will need to buy a new blank housing and swap the guts over to the new key housing. You can either have the dealer program the key for you or you can do it yourself with information readily available here on Club Lexus.

t2d2

iTrader: (8)

Info I put together, with help from others:

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...ogramming.html

ThomasGS4

iTrader: (19)

But wouldn't trace cutting the valet key limit his new master key to only what the valet key can do?

t2d2

iTrader: (8)

^ I was thinking the same thing. Wouldn't it be best to have a dealer cut a new key by the key code or VIN?

survyor2

iTrader: (1)

Thanks guys. I know were to start now. Lets see what the dealer says.

Blkexcoupe

iTrader: (8)

The dealer should know how to cut the difference between a valet key and a master key. There is usually 1 indentation that is different, so they can trace the stock key and cut that indentation after.

With cars this old, the possibility of having the key cylinders being different from the original increases, so tracing an existing key is the safest/easiest way to approach it if you're already at a dealership.

t2d2

iTrader: (8)

Ah, good point, I forgot about that. However, the dealers can visually confirm that the key matches the original key code for the car. That's what I had MyLParts.com do before cutting my Eternity key, per your suggestion.

survyor2

iTrader: (1)

I did go to the dealer yesterday. I paid $65 to have a new cell and master key cut. The cut was based on the VIN number. The new key didn't work. It is visibly different from the valet key. The dealership swears that all 5 cylinder locks on the car have been changed. My next option is a locksmith.

t2d2

iTrader: (8)

They didn't do the visual confirmation first?

survyor2

iTrader: (1)

I don't know if they did anything visual. They cut the key in the back. They let me know when it was half way cut that it didn't match but might as well finish the cut at that point.

The dealer recommended that I call a locksmith. So the locksmith came out and cut a key for me. I don't know what the deal is but the new key, which he didn't change me for, only works in the doors and ignition. Even in the ignition it doesn't start the car because of the chip. He also thinks some cylinders were changed. I think I'm just going to give up and keep using the valet key.

Blkexcoupe

iTrader: (8)

I'm surprised the dealer didn't cut the key for you from your existing key. They just charged you and gave you a key that doesn't work?

If the lock smith traced your valet key exactly, then it would make sense that it only works in the doors and ignition. Did the lock smith cut a regular key or a key shell (to place the transmitter inside). If it was a shell, then did you check to see if the battery was still good in the transmitter?

Luxor

iTrader: (15)

The 4 or 5 digit key code is imprinted on the driver's side key lock mechanism. You should of have had the dealer trace the valet key, I believe that the cut is the same... the only noticeable difference between the valet key and the master key is the how the valet key shank is flat on both sides and the master key has a raised groove on the each side of the shank. I believe that since the valet key has a flat shank, it prevents you from opening the glove box, trunk, and trunk release lock.

What I recommend you doing is pulling your driver side door lock and finding the imprinted code, write it down and take your valet key and your newly cut master key to the dealer and have them trace both keys and have them tell you if the code you gave them matches the valet key or the master key. If the master key(VIN cut) and the code match, then your tumblers have been changed. If the valet key and the code match, then your locks have been changed which means your valet key and locks are from a different SC.

t2d2

iTrader: (8)

Huh, I didn't know that. I just checked the back side of the driver's lock cylinder from my old parts car, and sure enough, it has a 4-digit code stamped on it. Too bad I didn't know to look for that two weeks ago when I had the whole thing taken apart on the new car to swap driver's doors and lock/window actuators, since I need to get a 2nd key cut for it.

The numbers are tiny, but they're easy to see if you take the sensor off the back. Just barely visible with the sensor on. I checked the corresponding passenger lock cylinder and the 4-digit code on it matches -- good confirmation of Luxor's info -- so you could take that one apart if you'd rather not mess with your driver's door and put it out of commission for a bit.

survyor2

iTrader: (1)

The dealer told me the only way they cut keys is from the VIN. They cannot create a key from an existing key. They gave me my money back so I was not charged. They did try to "trace the key". I guess a computer can read the key. It came up with nothing on the valet key which he told me was odd.

Maybe I should go to another dealer?

I was clear when I told the locksmith that my key was a valet and I needed a master key. He repeated to me that he was making a master key. I can't guarantee he did just that, but he said he did. He provided me a shell key in which he installed the transmitter. The transmitter has always worked 100%.

The power door lock isn't working on the driver's side so that is evidence it been messed with. (the memory seat buttons don't work either). I'll be taking the interior door panel off soon to see what's going on and get that code.

Thanks for the help!