Wheel stud question
#2
Lead Lap
iTrader: (8)
Some of them are incredibly tough to get in. I just did extended Ichiba studs in back and two of the ten put up a tremendous fight, with one bending a bit from the force involved. I wasn't willing to leave a gap like that, for fear of it eventually working itself into place and suddenly resulting in a loose lug nut.
A couple of tips that don't really help you after the fact, but could help if you redo that one:
1) Put the new studs in the freezer over night and keep them on ice right up until it's time to install each one. The metal will contract a tiny bit.
2) Clean out the hole with a wire brush and/or rolled up sandpaper. Just a bit of gunk in there makes a world of difference.
3) I should have done this one on the problematic studs... If one requires seemingly too much force, back it off and recenter the fender washers. When you really wrench on it, things have a tendency to dig in and chew up the threads. Fortunately, it usually happens deep enough on the stud to where it will be covered by the rotor hat.
A couple of tips that don't really help you after the fact, but could help if you redo that one:
1) Put the new studs in the freezer over night and keep them on ice right up until it's time to install each one. The metal will contract a tiny bit.
2) Clean out the hole with a wire brush and/or rolled up sandpaper. Just a bit of gunk in there makes a world of difference.
3) I should have done this one on the problematic studs... If one requires seemingly too much force, back it off and recenter the fender washers. When you really wrench on it, things have a tendency to dig in and chew up the threads. Fortunately, it usually happens deep enough on the stud to where it will be covered by the rotor hat.
#3
Advanced
iTrader: (1)
I don't think I'd trust matrix studs on the SC.. SC is a heavier more powerful car. i'm not 100% sure they arn't the same but i do doubt the metal quaility would be the same. Might be same size but weaker/cheaper metal as matrix's came out quite a few years after the SC too
What T2D2 said about the freezer trick is really good i used it and mine wern't to bad to install.
What T2D2 said about the freezer trick is really good i used it and mine wern't to bad to install.
#4
Yep I have the same feeling that's why I didn't just leave it with a small gap like that. Got the idea on on of the fb pages. I guess the Aussies been doing it and someone else recently had it done. Any other extended studs replacement? The is arp one had mix review so didn't get them.
Thanks for the tips will definitely try it tomorrow. Also now I got another problem. I put the wheel back and the top inner part of the caliper bracket is scraping my rotors. Any ideas. Had to go to work so didn't have any time to take it all off again.
Thanks for the tips will definitely try it tomorrow. Also now I got another problem. I put the wheel back and the top inner part of the caliper bracket is scraping my rotors. Any ideas. Had to go to work so didn't have any time to take it all off again.
#7
Lead Lap
iTrader: (8)
Yep I have the same feeling that's why I didn't just leave it with a small gap like that. Got the idea on on of the fb pages. I guess the Aussies been doing it and someone else recently had it done. Any other extended studs replacement? The is arp one had mix review so didn't get them.
Thanks for the tips will definitely try it tomorrow. Also now I got another problem. I put the wheel back and the top inner part of the caliper bracket is scraping my rotors. Any ideas. Had to go to work so didn't have any time to take it all off again.
Thanks for the tips will definitely try it tomorrow. Also now I got another problem. I put the wheel back and the top inner part of the caliper bracket is scraping my rotors. Any ideas. Had to go to work so didn't have any time to take it all off again.
Like others have mentioned, throw the studs in the freezer for a bit before installing, clean the knurls on the hub, and apply a little grease to help pull the stud in and it'll go in with no problem.
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