Buying an SC400
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Buying an SC400
Greetings!
I am going to buy an SC 400, and I am currently looking at two different cars. One is a '95, the other a '97.
Both have a little over 200K on them, and both current owners have owned their SC for more than a decade.
Both cars are unmolested stockers that have been well maintained. Both are asking the same price.
All things being fairly equal, is one model year more desirable than the other?
1995 or 1997 ?
EDIT: The '95 has fresh replacement leather on the front seats, the '97 has well preserved original leather.
I do not plan to modify my SC, I would rather enjoy driving it in stock form.
Thank you -
I am going to buy an SC 400, and I am currently looking at two different cars. One is a '95, the other a '97.
Both have a little over 200K on them, and both current owners have owned their SC for more than a decade.
Both cars are unmolested stockers that have been well maintained. Both are asking the same price.
All things being fairly equal, is one model year more desirable than the other?
1995 or 1997 ?
EDIT: The '95 has fresh replacement leather on the front seats, the '97 has well preserved original leather.
I do not plan to modify my SC, I would rather enjoy driving it in stock form.
Thank you -
Last edited by H2OMAN; 08-25-16 at 11:17 AM.
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#5
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The '97 body kit is more desirable, but I prefer the '95 tail lights. Small advantage '97.
'95 is OBDI, '97 is OBDII. I would call that advantage '95, but since you don't plan to mod it, it probably doesn't matter.
'97 adds auto-dimming mirrors, which is a pretty nice touch.
SC leather is pretty low quality, IMO. If the replacement leather on the '95 is good stuff, that's a big advantage. If it's just a pull-over custom fitted cover, not so much.
'95 is OBDI, '97 is OBDII. I would call that advantage '95, but since you don't plan to mod it, it probably doesn't matter.
'97 adds auto-dimming mirrors, which is a pretty nice touch.
SC leather is pretty low quality, IMO. If the replacement leather on the '95 is good stuff, that's a big advantage. If it's just a pull-over custom fitted cover, not so much.
#7
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i'd take the newer one for the sideskirts and front bumper upgrades that come on the 97.
T2 had a good point on the leather though but if the 97 is in good shape chances are it will last if your gentle.. if u go putting 1 knee down on the driver seat to grab something out of the passenger side or the back real quick... expect rips
Can i ask why you are set on these 2 sc400's with over 200k miles? miles are kinda high in my opinion. If its the price range i understand but you might be able to find something with less miles and newer that just needs some love for the same price.
T2 had a good point on the leather though but if the 97 is in good shape chances are it will last if your gentle.. if u go putting 1 knee down on the driver seat to grab something out of the passenger side or the back real quick... expect rips
Can i ask why you are set on these 2 sc400's with over 200k miles? miles are kinda high in my opinion. If its the price range i understand but you might be able to find something with less miles and newer that just needs some love for the same price.
Last edited by scsexy; 08-25-16 at 04:58 PM.
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#8
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^ The window tint guys didn't seem to understand why I would want to take the back seats out beforehand... They were a bit miffed that they didn't have anything soft to kneel on. I couldn't believe they didn't have foam or knee pads lying around for that purpose. They eventually rounded something up, but I wasn't about to have my leather seats literally torn apart at the seams.
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I'm keeping the cash purchase price rather low. The leather in the '95 is much better than the '97... good idea with the tint shop. I'm not looking for a project, I'm looking for a well cared for car that's ready to go with little if any work required up front, something I can fully enjoy from day one. The '95 is looking like the best value, and it does have the lowest milage.
#10
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buying something with over 200k miles will have issues and either you will need to learn to fix them yourself or pay for them to be fixed within the next 20,000 miles something will go out... due to age and mileage. If its had all new hubs and suspension components thats a big plus but those things can get pricey quickly if your not doing it yourself. Clublexus is the best at providing you all the information to get the job done yourself.
I'm only speaking from experience of having 2 Sc's. I had one from 90k-150k and i probably spent over 1500 between seals, engine and transmission mounts, timing belt, water pump, sway bar bushings, brakes, cabin air filter, one bad seized brake caliper,power steering lines,(leaky) struts and shocks,(went aftermarket coil overs as was same price as new Toyota "equivalent") and the right maintenance the car needed(i know i'm forgetting little things). That's doing it all myself. over 4 years. Not including tires and insurance. A car with 200k may need even more than those things. I'd really inspect the both and you'll know which is better. If you've got a mechanic friend heres the time to buy him a case of beer for helping you out.
I'm a mechanic at Toyota for the last year and had tech school before that. Just trying to be as realistic with you as possible
I'm only speaking from experience of having 2 Sc's. I had one from 90k-150k and i probably spent over 1500 between seals, engine and transmission mounts, timing belt, water pump, sway bar bushings, brakes, cabin air filter, one bad seized brake caliper,power steering lines,(leaky) struts and shocks,(went aftermarket coil overs as was same price as new Toyota "equivalent") and the right maintenance the car needed(i know i'm forgetting little things). That's doing it all myself. over 4 years. Not including tires and insurance. A car with 200k may need even more than those things. I'd really inspect the both and you'll know which is better. If you've got a mechanic friend heres the time to buy him a case of beer for helping you out.
I'm a mechanic at Toyota for the last year and had tech school before that. Just trying to be as realistic with you as possible
#11
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I'm keeping the cash purchase price rather low. The leather in the '95 is much better than the '97... good idea with the tint shop. I'm not looking for a project, I'm looking for a well cared for car that's ready to go with little if any work required up front, something I can fully enjoy from day one. The '95 is looking like the best value, and it does have the lowest milage.
Like the guy above said, you're still buying a car with 200K on it, and it's 20 years old so expect issues to pop up. If you're looking for a car with little work, I don't think this is the right car for you. But if you're the type of person to fix things before they break then go for it. Personally I think anyone buying an SC with 200K should be able to handle basic repairs themselves, and already have the tools ready to do so. Not that these cars aren't reliable, they are, but it's the age factor and high mileage in your case that increases the chances of something breaking. Bearings, calipers, belts, pads, rotors, wires, ecu, etc...
#12
I prefer the looks of the 95/96 models my self. The 97 has the vvti engine which has a bit more hp and a few different bells and whistles. The newer the year the less of them exist here in the U.S. . Since they both have that many miles on them get the maintenance records on them to make sure what has been done to them, and that the timing belt/water pump has been changed at the recommended intervals. Enjoy your SC, they are great cars and a joy to drive, but remember that the dragon can bite you in the derrière when your not looking! We here at club lexus will gladly help if that happens.;-)
#15
I would get whichever one has a better body. You can always get new seats or swap an engine, but the body isn't going anywhere. I would also run both vin numbers and get whichever one has a cleaner history report. You would be amazed at what you'll find. I almost bought a Mustang GT, until I discovered that it was used in Puerto Rico as a fleet vehicle or something. I patiently waited until I found a car with no accidents, no auction history, and a good rust free body. Nothing is perfect though, and in my case the paint is slightly weathered and faded. No big deal, I'll just have it professionally repainted eventually. These are 20+ year old cars so most will need to be repainted anyways. I'd much rather buy a faded car and get it repainted myself than buy a nice shiny one that's hiding 20 years of bondo and accidents.