Fog Light mod
09-28-19, 10:59 AM
#1
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Fog Light mod
Hi,
I have just purchased a 1994 5M/T SC300, and I am researching all of the 97+ Fog light mods thread here on CL.
I'm looking for a different approach to finish this conversion, as I do not like cutting into the factory wiring, and I would like to have this done as OEM as possible.
I have a 1997 that is now my parts car for the 94 from a hit and run, and now I'm in the middle of swapping parts over from my 97 to my 94.
I plan on swapping the 97 OEM fog light switch over, and plan on re-arrange the pins on the appropriate connector to get the OEM switch to work.
I'm also looking for a LED H3 that operates at a similar wattage as the 15w incandescent bulb in the 94's.
I have already de-pinned, and swapped the fog/cornering lamp's connector housings between my 94, and 97, so the good news is, the wiring terminals used between the two is the same.
IIRC, the wiring gauge between the two were also similar as well.
Has anyone on here done it through this approach, or have a wiring diagram of the 94's cornering lights?
Thanks for looking.
I have just purchased a 1994 5M/T SC300, and I am researching all of the 97+ Fog light mods thread here on CL.
I'm looking for a different approach to finish this conversion, as I do not like cutting into the factory wiring, and I would like to have this done as OEM as possible.
I have a 1997 that is now my parts car for the 94 from a hit and run, and now I'm in the middle of swapping parts over from my 97 to my 94.
I plan on swapping the 97 OEM fog light switch over, and plan on re-arrange the pins on the appropriate connector to get the OEM switch to work.
I'm also looking for a LED H3 that operates at a similar wattage as the 15w incandescent bulb in the 94's.
I have already de-pinned, and swapped the fog/cornering lamp's connector housings between my 94, and 97, so the good news is, the wiring terminals used between the two is the same.
IIRC, the wiring gauge between the two were also similar as well.
Has anyone on here done it through this approach, or have a wiring diagram of the 94's cornering lights?
Thanks for looking.
11-09-19, 01:04 PM
#2
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
So,
I have succeeded in re-purposing my 94 cornering lights into fog lights like my 97, using the OEM fog light switch from my 97. However, it is NOT a direct swap.
To most of you, this method will be more trouble than it's worth and is arguably the HARD way, but for those who REALLY wants to preserve the factory chassis harness as much as possible by avoiding T-taps/Splicing into the factory wiring harness from the usual method of wiring up an aftermarket relay/switch, adding additional wiring, and drilling into factory panels, then for those, this way would be the way to go IMO.
However, there WILL be some splicing within the harness of the combination switch, but to me, that is a much more easily replaceable harness in comparison to something large, like a dash/chassis harness.
I have tried swapping over the entire 97 combination switch assembly over, and the pin-out was different between the 94 vs 97, So I was missing wiper function, cornering lights, ect.
So instead of re-arranging the pin-out of the entire 97 combination switch assembly to work with my 94, I have decided to swap over JUST the left lever arm of the 97, into my 94 combo switch assembly.
The physical dimensions of the 2 lever arms are the same, and they interchange, and bolt up 100% the same inside of both combination switch housing.
The 4 wiring color code of the lever arm between 94 vs 97 is the same. The function of each wire is also the same, and these control Low Beam/DRL/Auto. However, the 97 pins are arranged differently in the connector going into C15 (Wiring diagram will be attached below).
The 97 lever arm has it's own separate fog light switch, and will come with an ADDITIONAL 2 black wires, as it is designed to be ran on a separate circuit, unlike the 94 that has it's cornering light's power shared with the turn signal.
Before you start, please make sure you have at least the basic wiring tools to get the job done.
To take apart the Combination switch, you will at least need the following:
- Terminal pick (To release, and de-pin terminals from the connector housing)
- Philips screwdriver (To disassemble the combination switch)
- Small flathead screwdriver (To release the plastic locks for the wiring protector)
- Wire strippers
- Terminal splice/butt connectors/solder - Whatever you need to join wires together, your call.
Personally, I like to use Open barrel terminal splices, with OEM ratcheting style open barrel crimpers to ensure I get OEM like crimps/connections.
For those who are interested, you can get those kind of terminals/splices/crimpers here at http://cycleterminal.com/
So first off, with the removal of the Combination switch, both of my 94/97 cars ended up looking like this to remove the switch, due to the fact Lexus designed overlapping dash panels, and I couldn't just directly remove the driver's lower kick panel without the risk of breaking the Ignition keyhole panel, which resulted in the needed removal of the center glove box assembly to access that ignition panel.
After disassembly, and picture of the 2 combination switches side by side. 97 on the left, 94 on the right.
Disassemble the turn signal lever (Sorry was too busy for step-by-step detailed pics!)
Pin-out of wires from the 94 turn lever, going into connector C15
Note the following wires:
Silver - Pin #3 Connector C15
White - Pin #4 Connector C15
Green - Pin # 12 Connector C15
Red - Pin #13 Connector C15
**Note**
You can also see the terminal pin #'s, marked on the top of the connector, you will have to look closely, but it is raised in plastic.
Hopefully this helps with potential pin arrangement confusions.
Connector C15, will be the 18-pin connector, the bigger white one of the two.
Connector C16 will be the 14-pin connector, the smaller white one of the two.
When you swap the 97 turn lever over, you'd want the 4 pins arranged the same in the image below. ************** (I'll update with Pin #'s when I can!)***************
Pin-out of wires coming from the 97 turn lever, into connector C15, and you'll notice the 2 extra black wires going into Pin# 10, and Pin # 11, on connector C16
The purpose of these two black wires in the 97, are the input/output wires of the fog light switch.
by https://www.flickr.com/photos/162334321@N05/, on Flickr
Here is the diagram of the
97 fog light circuit (Left)
vs
94 cornering light circuit (Right)
by https://www.flickr.com/photos/162334321@N05/, on Flickr
So looking on the 94 diagram,
What I ended up doing, is taking the power wire in Pin #8 going into the combination switch of connector C16, and splicing it together with one end of the black wire coming from the 97 Fog light switch.
What I ended up doing with the other black wire of the 97 Fog light switch, is splicing it together with the 2 wires going into Pin #10, and Pin #11 of connector C16.
What is happening is, that we're bypassing the 94's cornering light switch, and using the 97's fog light switch in place of it. Pin #8 is the power wire going Into the Fog light switch, and
Pin #10, and Pin #11, is the power output wire that goes into the Cornering(Now Fogs since the two lights power are now spliced together).
Splicing one end of the Fog light switch to Pin #8 on the combination switch's side (In this case, Yellow) not shown in diagram (Input wires to the switch)
by https://www.flickr.com/photos/162334321@N05/, on Flickr
Splicing the other end of the Fog light switch into the wires going into Pin #10, and Pin #11 (Output wires to the Lamps)
by https://www.flickr.com/photos/162334321@N05/, on Flickr
Make sure you Heat shrink/Tape any exposed wires/splice points to prevent any potential future shortage!
Afterwards, I have removed the turn signal switch to de-solder two wires going to Pin #10, and Pin#11 to disconnect it from this box, to reuse them to splice into the 97 Fog light switch.
This box is fastened by phillips screw behind the Turn signal lever, and does not require the lever to be removed, to access this box.
The wires I removed will be
- Red/Green stripe (Very dark green, almost looked black)
- Yellow/Red stripe (NOT the one I'm holding in this picture!!) You need the one next to the one I'm holding in this picture!
by https://www.flickr.com/photos/162334321@N05/, on Flickr
Reassemble the combination switch, and temporarily plug everything into your car to test that it's working. Test it with the interior apart to save yourself some potential trouble!
You will need your Key On, and your headlights needs to be ON to test the fog light switch. If you've done everything correctly, it will work.
Also keep in mind that I use LED's, in place of incandescent bulbs, because they pull less wattage. The main power source is still shared with the Turn signal's power source, and I haven't tested it with high wattage Incandescent bulbs with turn signals on, but I will suspect it will probably pop a fuse if it's drawing too much power. Something to keep in mind
I'll upload pictures and I'll do my best to update this post as best as I could possibly could in detail it as I go. But however,
********Disclaimer******** Do this at your own risk, as I'm 100% not responsible what happens with what you do with your car, or anything because of this post.
I hope this post will be useful for somebody who is looking for an alternative to make their fog lights work with an OEM switch.
Big special thanks goes to my friend Yumi, for helping me keep my clumsiness in check!
I have succeeded in re-purposing my 94 cornering lights into fog lights like my 97, using the OEM fog light switch from my 97. However, it is NOT a direct swap.
To most of you, this method will be more trouble than it's worth and is arguably the HARD way, but for those who REALLY wants to preserve the factory chassis harness as much as possible by avoiding T-taps/Splicing into the factory wiring harness from the usual method of wiring up an aftermarket relay/switch, adding additional wiring, and drilling into factory panels, then for those, this way would be the way to go IMO.
However, there WILL be some splicing within the harness of the combination switch, but to me, that is a much more easily replaceable harness in comparison to something large, like a dash/chassis harness.
I have tried swapping over the entire 97 combination switch assembly over, and the pin-out was different between the 94 vs 97, So I was missing wiper function, cornering lights, ect.
So instead of re-arranging the pin-out of the entire 97 combination switch assembly to work with my 94, I have decided to swap over JUST the left lever arm of the 97, into my 94 combo switch assembly.
The physical dimensions of the 2 lever arms are the same, and they interchange, and bolt up 100% the same inside of both combination switch housing.
The 4 wiring color code of the lever arm between 94 vs 97 is the same. The function of each wire is also the same, and these control Low Beam/DRL/Auto. However, the 97 pins are arranged differently in the connector going into C15 (Wiring diagram will be attached below).
The 97 lever arm has it's own separate fog light switch, and will come with an ADDITIONAL 2 black wires, as it is designed to be ran on a separate circuit, unlike the 94 that has it's cornering light's power shared with the turn signal.
Before you start, please make sure you have at least the basic wiring tools to get the job done.
To take apart the Combination switch, you will at least need the following:
- Terminal pick (To release, and de-pin terminals from the connector housing)
- Philips screwdriver (To disassemble the combination switch)
- Small flathead screwdriver (To release the plastic locks for the wiring protector)
- Wire strippers
- Terminal splice/butt connectors/solder - Whatever you need to join wires together, your call.
Personally, I like to use Open barrel terminal splices, with OEM ratcheting style open barrel crimpers to ensure I get OEM like crimps/connections.
For those who are interested, you can get those kind of terminals/splices/crimpers here at http://cycleterminal.com/
So first off, with the removal of the Combination switch, both of my 94/97 cars ended up looking like this to remove the switch, due to the fact Lexus designed overlapping dash panels, and I couldn't just directly remove the driver's lower kick panel without the risk of breaking the Ignition keyhole panel, which resulted in the needed removal of the center glove box assembly to access that ignition panel.
After disassembly, and picture of the 2 combination switches side by side. 97 on the left, 94 on the right.
Disassemble the turn signal lever (Sorry was too busy for step-by-step detailed pics!)
Pin-out of wires from the 94 turn lever, going into connector C15
Note the following wires:
Silver - Pin #3 Connector C15
White - Pin #4 Connector C15
Green - Pin # 12 Connector C15
Red - Pin #13 Connector C15
**Note**
You can also see the terminal pin #'s, marked on the top of the connector, you will have to look closely, but it is raised in plastic.
Hopefully this helps with potential pin arrangement confusions.
Connector C15, will be the 18-pin connector, the bigger white one of the two.
Connector C16 will be the 14-pin connector, the smaller white one of the two.
When you swap the 97 turn lever over, you'd want the 4 pins arranged the same in the image below. ************** (I'll update with Pin #'s when I can!)***************
Pin-out of wires coming from the 97 turn lever, into connector C15, and you'll notice the 2 extra black wires going into Pin# 10, and Pin # 11, on connector C16
The purpose of these two black wires in the 97, are the input/output wires of the fog light switch.
Here is the diagram of the
97 fog light circuit (Left)
vs
94 cornering light circuit (Right)
So looking on the 94 diagram,
What I ended up doing, is taking the power wire in Pin #8 going into the combination switch of connector C16, and splicing it together with one end of the black wire coming from the 97 Fog light switch.
What I ended up doing with the other black wire of the 97 Fog light switch, is splicing it together with the 2 wires going into Pin #10, and Pin #11 of connector C16.
What is happening is, that we're bypassing the 94's cornering light switch, and using the 97's fog light switch in place of it. Pin #8 is the power wire going Into the Fog light switch, and
Pin #10, and Pin #11, is the power output wire that goes into the Cornering(Now Fogs since the two lights power are now spliced together).
Splicing one end of the Fog light switch to Pin #8 on the combination switch's side (In this case, Yellow) not shown in diagram (Input wires to the switch)
Splicing the other end of the Fog light switch into the wires going into Pin #10, and Pin #11 (Output wires to the Lamps)
Make sure you Heat shrink/Tape any exposed wires/splice points to prevent any potential future shortage!
Afterwards, I have removed the turn signal switch to de-solder two wires going to Pin #10, and Pin#11 to disconnect it from this box, to reuse them to splice into the 97 Fog light switch.
This box is fastened by phillips screw behind the Turn signal lever, and does not require the lever to be removed, to access this box.
The wires I removed will be
- Red/Green stripe (Very dark green, almost looked black)
- Yellow/Red stripe (NOT the one I'm holding in this picture!!) You need the one next to the one I'm holding in this picture!
Reassemble the combination switch, and temporarily plug everything into your car to test that it's working. Test it with the interior apart to save yourself some potential trouble!
You will need your Key On, and your headlights needs to be ON to test the fog light switch. If you've done everything correctly, it will work.
Also keep in mind that I use LED's, in place of incandescent bulbs, because they pull less wattage. The main power source is still shared with the Turn signal's power source, and I haven't tested it with high wattage Incandescent bulbs with turn signals on, but I will suspect it will probably pop a fuse if it's drawing too much power. Something to keep in mind
I'll upload pictures and I'll do my best to update this post as best as I could possibly could in detail it as I go. But however,
********Disclaimer******** Do this at your own risk, as I'm 100% not responsible what happens with what you do with your car, or anything because of this post.
I hope this post will be useful for somebody who is looking for an alternative to make their fog lights work with an OEM switch.
Big special thanks goes to my friend Yumi, for helping me keep my clumsiness in check!
Last edited by BoostWang; 11-14-19 at 10:11 AM.
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1997Soarer (11-11-19)
11-14-19, 10:18 AM
#6
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Thanks guys! I believe this might be the first one using the OEM switch as well. I couldn't find anything on Club Lexus, so I ventured out on my own. It is also my DD so I knew if I took it apart, I had to get it done one way or another. I didn't want to do any irreversible mods to this car, because of how well kept this car is, given it's mileage.
The best part is, all the mods are done to the Combo switch and not the car, so if anything, I can simply remove it, and plug it into another Pre-95 car, if for whatever reason I needed to reverse this mod.
I have also updated the OP with the correct terminal #'s!
Hope this helps!
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