t2d2

iTrader: (8)

I keep forgetting about that possible '92-93 switch-over...

...or, maybe I was mistaken that '93s were R134a. Although, that link is to a UK list, but it's the same one I had bookmarked, so maybe I'm just remembering wrong.

"Climate control system revised for CFC-free refrigerant."

That wording makes me wonder if the HVAC unit itself (i.e., the computer) is also changed for R134a and somehow explains the R12 retrofits not working quite as well as the original? Maybe I'm reading into it too much.

It's funny how cloth is better in almost every respect -- softer, more durable, less slippery, cooler in hot weather, lighter -- but we all want leather. There's just something about the tactile feedback of a cow hide.

pur4orm

I didn't know these cars came with cloth interiors either. Not that it matters to everyone. Once I see things were changed out, it would make me question it more.

Chattanoah

I am curious, what issues (besides environmental) do are there with R12 vs R134 systems?

t2d2

iTrader: (8)

^ Mostly cost and accessibility of recharge supplies.

KahnBB6

iTrader: (5)

Yes, 1992 and most early 1993 vehicles originally came with R12. Some dealers converted them as was the case with mine. Not sure if that was due to customer request (at their expense), a TSB recall or some other reason.

The HVAC computer shouldn't have a problem with the changeover but in case I am incorrect the best way to check is through a Toyota/Lexus EPC to see if part numbers for 1992, 1993 an late 1993 and early 1994 differ for those units. They all look the same but there were at least a couple of revisions throughout the entire model cycle until 2000.

Nonetheless it mostly comes down to having totally clean lines (the metal lines are the most expensive and difficult to replace parts and they last almost indefinitely. Should not need to source those-- just have the shop clean them very very thoroughly of oil residue), replacing the compressor, possibly the high and low rubber lines, the little relief valves, all O-rings, new R134a refrigerant lubricating oil (ALL the old R12 lubricating oil has to be purged first), current R134a Dryer....and... those should be the big ones.

The Lexus/Denso thermal expansion valve (TX-V) should be the same and the Lexus/Denso A/C Evaporator core core should be the same (although replacing it couldn't hurt and is probably recommended to have as little R12 oil in the system as possible). The Lexus/Denso A/C Condenser is, I think, the same but again... probably couldn't hurt to replace that also to eliminate further areas of old residual R12 oil contamination. And again, ALL the O-ring seals have to be R134a spec but those are cheap standard size. It's going in to replace all of them during a conversion that costs in labor... but all these parts require going in there anyway.

The A/C Evap core and attached thermal expansion valve, btw, only requires the lower glove box to be removed to get to replacing. The dash does not have to come out to service that.

Probably the most affordable method is to do it in stages: evacuate the A/C and clean and replace parts in stages so long as the system is sealed back up every time. Once all the correct bits have been replaced and everything is double-checked to be R134a compatible, THEN charge up the system for the first time under the new refrigerant.

There is probably an old TSB or generic method ASE mechanics are trained to use but this is what I observed after doing a lot of A/C repair service last year part by part. Get everything clean and converted first... then put your first charge in. As long as the A/C compressor fuse is pulled temporarily (or you just NEVER press the "on" button or temp adjust **** with a dry system) then you can't harm the A/C system when it's dry.

Or it can be done all at once. I'd have your mechanic do it though unless you're familiar with A/C systems. And getting an OEM condenser, evap core, drier and thermal expansion valve direct from Denso and not more expensively from Lexus is a no-brainer.

99m3

I'm asking $4500 for my 95 automatic in really good condition so the price sounds good to me for a 5 speed

jimmymac30

iTrader: (8)

good price for a 92 5spd hard top. if you don't buy it i might drive down and pick it up... why not have a 3rd sc sitting around lol. almost getting up to the numbers gerrb has lol

RXRodger

iTrader: (2)

A few things to have checked:

-Check the front lower control arms for slack in the ball joint or the rear bushing. I have bought 3 of these cars (2 manuals, one auto for parts) and they all 3 have had worn out lower control arms. If the ball joints are bad, the Lexus replacement is stupid expensive, but the Supra arms work fine and are about $275 each. Talk him down based on anything you find wrong here. Unless you can do the work yourself, it's going to be expensive no matter what if it needs control arms/bushings (including an alignment).
-There is a lot of varied advice on the a/c stuff if it's still R12. If it's still R12 and works don't worry about it. If it breaks later, personally I change the drier and charge it up with R134 and oil and let 'er rip. I understand why some suggest change all of everything and purge like hell, but I have converted about 25 systems since 134 came out and rarely have one not work out. It's a cost vs reward thing for me. Changing everything costs money and time, both of which are in short supply in my world.
-I know you said the shifter was smooth now, but does it go into gear from each gear smoothly or is the shifter assembly just tight from the new bushings. Just make sure the trans shifts smoothly in all gears, especially check from 1st to 2nd, notorious synchro problem.
-No Check Engine Light codes?
-Ask how long since the timing belt was changed. Just another item that must be done routinely. Unless you can do it yourself, it's a moderately expensive item to have done. If it has not been done recently, talk him down a few hundred for that.

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

R12 is the least of your concern .. all my 3 1992 SCs now have R134 and AC are as cold as they can get . All I did was vacuumed the system before recharging after installing the conversion fittings . Besides for my 1992s , 25 years by Jan 2017 so no more inspections , emissions or whatever government mandated checks or tests .

If the car is in good shape go get it . These 5 speeds seems to be getting harder to find now a days that is why they seem to hold their prices better than the auto.

Maximo018

There is no reason as to why you haven't picked this up yet.

KahnBB6

iTrader: (5)

^^^ Absolutely this. Agreed, Gerry.

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

If the AC components are still the original 1992 AC components then replace the drier and o-rings which should not cost you $20 . The drier will already be contaminated with the old stuff and o-rings are already going bad. The new charge/discharge fittings come with some freon packages you buy at Autozone or any other auto parts store.

Vacuum the whole system so it is clean. That is the secret ... then charge with R134. Anyone who says it doesn't work either have just read it somewhere without any personal experience and is another one of those he said / she said stuff that is being perpetuated or more likely did not do the conversion right. There are tons of cars that use to have R12 and are now running well with R134 without spending a lot and 3 of my SCs are a testament to it.

- V -

iTrader: (1)

Everything people said on this forum is absolutely true. And the bottom line is this. If you love the car is $600 really worth missing out on it? To put it in perspective thats $50 a month for a year. Id say go for it unless you find some major red flags.

GL

Chattanoah

I bought the car yo.

I got it for a lovely price of 4k. Which I think is fair considering some of issues present; nonetheless, I'm very happy with that price and what I have. To answer some above concerns:

- Timing belt was recently done
- front suspension was worked on (can't remember what exactly)

There are some minor cosmetic issues but most can be easily fixed. I do have one concern. It seems that sometimes it shifting into reverse feels more difficult than it should. Same with first gear if you're going above a certain speed.

Also, idle was a little rough at times, though I'm thinking that's due to something with power steering which I know needs work anyways.

Aron9000

Congrats on the car man!!! First mods you need to do is buy a low speed buffer and some cutting compound, I bet that black paint will really come back to life. Plus you can polish the headlights with the buffer. If there is water in them, I found an easy fix is to first dry them out by removing the bulbs and getting a hair dryer or heat gun on low setting. Then put some black electrical tape along that top seal that you see when the hood is open. I occasionally replace the black tape on my headlights, they've been dry for 4 years now using that trick and I haven't had to take them out of the car to reseal them.


The transmission on my 1992 SC300 is the same way, stock car that I bought with 60k on it. It has 93k on it now, feels exactly the same. As for getting it shift into first, bring the rpms up a bit with your foot on the clutch, then slide it into first. Its called rev-match downshifting, takes some of the stress off the synchros. But yes, generally I don't shift to first unless its under 12-13mph, the 2JZ doesn't mind if you lug it a bit.

As for it not wanting to give you reverse, just put the car back to neutral, take your foot off the clutch, then put it back on the clutch, voila, it will seemlessly slide into reverse. The transmssions in my 1993 Toyota truck and 2004 Tacoma both had the same sort of quirks FYI, so I always assumed it was just a Toyota thing. Still check the clutch fluid level and maybe check/add some oil to the transmission next time you do an oil change. When you remove the bolt on the transmission(its right on the side, you can't miss it), stick your pinky finger in there, you should feel a bit of oil in there. If you want to add some, just keep pumping it in by a little bit till it dribbles out of the hole. Or just change the oil, it probably needs it anyways, my car shifted a bit smoother with fresh oil in it.