uh60griff

Why does everyone suggest to swap in either a 1JZGTE or 2JZGTE instead of going na-t?

90% of either GTE's for sale are autos. 1J autos start around $1000, manual's $1800-$3800. 2J autos start around $1600, manual's $3000-10,000.

After the engine purchase you'll need the wiring harness modified $700 is what I have seen. Most people will have a mechanic do the swap minimum $1500. Then you'll need drive shaft and rear end estimate $1500. Say 1000 in misc stuff.

$6,500-7,700 for a GTE manual swap with a 350ish HP max. To exceed 400hp you'll need all the mods you put on a Na-T

Na-T range from $1700 cxracing kit to the $5700 stage 2 boost logic kit. DIY kit $3279.23(kit that I figured out includes injectors, head gasket, head studs).

Say $1000 for a shop install.

Aem ems series 2-$1800 much cheaper options out there.

$4700-8500 Na-t 330ish hp on stock fuel

This will get flamed but the cx racing kits is decent budget option if you go in knowing that eventually you will need to upgrade your turbo and BOV.

I'll throw out there that most people with general mechanical abilities could install a turbo kit. Most people with general mechanical abilities cant do a motor swap with new wiring, and in a auto to manual swap.

Studiogeek

iTrader: (6)

Everyone does not suggest a swap. If you ask those of us with NA/T setups, we won't suggest a GTE swap. I likely will never GTE swap unless I get loads of extra cash. That said, I am probably close to 20K deep in my car.

None of the guys in the TT ECU MOD thread will suggest a GTE swap.

I am even looking for a spare GE to rebuild ;-)

uh60griff

alright everyone is a broad term. but it seems that every thread I read about NA/T more then one person says "do a GTE swap yada yada yada" For the general person that wants a boosted SC a GTE swap in my opinion is a waste of money. Unless you're looking for upwards of 700hp I'm going to say do a NA/T.

I'm sure head design/flow or oil squirters will come up eventually.

I'm new to this forum but I'm not new to building respectable hp powered(I've never broken 1000hp so I don't use high) engines. hopefully I can shed some light to other new people the GTE isn't the answer.

CatManD3W

iTrader: (18)

GTE is better......by the time most people build an NA-T.......they could of easily had a GTE...Far more aftermarket support for GTE as well

The biggest reason I did not do NA-T is I hate the manifold...it is such a major PITA to work on.....changing plugs is a huge task

You dont need driveshaft and rearend.....unless you have v160

w58 will bolt right up to GTE.....R154 will require MKIII front shaft....

mikef

iTrader: (3)

I agree with this, much easier to work on and no need to worry about head gaskets and a load of other things like oil return and on and on.

You can totally convert a gt to a gte but in the end it will cost more.

also you can do your own wire harness

LEXXIUM

iTrader: (1)

Im all for na-t, just because simply of cost and parts availability.
I just bought a 90k mile engine from the yard for 225$, and preparing it for the na-t setup w single turbo, and this thing is mint internally except for the hole they drill in the oil pan. My total cost for doing the swap myself I calculated will be around 3grand on the budget give and take a little, and that included aftermarket ffim, TT ecu etc.
Getting a "low mile" 2jzgte from eBay is a gamble like everyone says and most of the time you have to tear it apart to rebuild it and then you'll want to go single anyway that's just too costly imo.
So why spend 2500 on jdm engine when you can start spending 2200 of that on parts to beef up the 2jzge.
With the right hg, fuel mods right turbo and electronics, the ge can handle 450 to 500hp easily.
This is the long block I picked up last week vs going gte swap, cleaned it up a little and we're ready for the hg, studs+++

CatManD3W

iTrader: (18)

Regardless of which route you decide to go with I strongly recommend doing water pump and oil pump....

uh60griff

This was never supposed which is better I just cant wrap my head around why its suggested to do a GTE over NA/T. 90% of people will never exceed the power capabilities of the 2JZGE. If you do a proper build you can make 800hp on a stock bottom end. If you break something after that do GTE swap. Anything over 550hp is wasted as a DD and the average person wont be able to control 550+hp on a track. Contrary to popular belief hp doesn't make you fast.

KahnBB6

iTrader: (5)

I agree. Always change the water pump on an old engine. And remember that for an NA-T you should only use a 2JZ-GE oil pump. 2JZ-GE VVT-i style pump if you want a crank sensor trigger.

I certainly don't recommend the severely limited GTE swap I'm doing for 95% of people. For the cost and trouble it's only 350whp. MAYBE a bit more. It's worth the overkill and limited power to me but that's because I'm very stubborn and refuse to accept the answer "No" in California. If I all I wanted was a truly fast car I wouldn't be doing it. That amount of power in near factory tune is fine with me.

In general I think the 1JZ-GTE VVT-i is a great all around engine to swap in. If you aren't building anywhere near a 550hp+ car (although they will do at least that in modified form if you wish) it's hard to dislike out of the box or with a basic BPU tune and revised turbo.

2JZ-GTE's (Non-VVT or VVT-i) from Aristos are just plentiful for now. Supra 2JZGTE's less so but nearly the same for more cash. It's one of the most common ways to get a drop-in turbo engine that is pretty much set up already from the factory. And you can get the ceramic twins rebuilt with steel blades now or go small single.

Yes, all of those require a custom harness but that's also true for almost every engine swap into any chassis.

Early 1JZ's are okay out of the box and do tune easily but it seems like a tossup as to whether someone wants one in BPU form or really wants to build one out... often involving many of the same costs you'd incur with an NA-T.

As mikef said above I also feel GTE's are far easier to do regular maintenance on without having to remove the throttle body, worry about a coolant bypass hose and cross-over manifold every time you want to check your spark plugs.

There is nothing wrong with NA-T's. A 2JZGTE ECU is a great inexpensive option for control on a budget. It's not entirely cheap to do the right way but it's very popular and not at all being discouraged here. I've seen just as many impressive GTE cars here as full custom high powered NA-T's.

All of these are just options. I think it's great we have so many for this vehicle!