Studiogeek

iTrader: (6)

Dave,
I posted this in the Youtube thread:
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+Rich Eklund,
The administrator of Club Lexus forum asked if you were a member there. Someone posted this video there and a thread has started. Check it out and join if you are not a member. There are DIY's help and ideas for every thing you could possibly think of doing to the car there. If you are in NYC, hit me up. A ride in my boosted 300 may make you change your mind about boosting it ;-)
Your thread is here: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc-...--------------

We will see if he is...
T

GISguy

Extending the hand of diplomacy

xECKSx58

I'm the guy from the video; that's my Dad's car.

Been a member here for quite a while but I never really stop by here anymore, only when I need to find something in the FAQs :redface:

2jzscthree

I am now actually the owner this was originally my dads car as said in the video and the guy in the video is my brother. I made a deal with my dad to let me take it since this video it now has brand new tein coil overs a lighter fly wheel and cat delete. I’m looking to turbo it to 500whp in the next 5 years if anyone has any advice for me. I’m now in Texas with it.

KahnBB6

iTrader: (5)

Congratulations!! That's a very nice and famous SC! It's awesome that it is staying in the family!

^^ I would invest in an R154, AR-5, R150, R151, CD009 or Tremec Magnum manual transmission for of all. Th W58 will not handle that kind of power for very long and is valuable to sell to someone who's got an IS300 or is wanting to manual swap their 1UZ-FE SC400.

Look up Ali SC3's NA-T how to thread to get the fundamentals of how to prep your 2JZ-GE Non-VVT-i for turbo duty.

It's easier to pull the engine to do all the major turbo prep work (ie: pulling the lower an upper oil pans to tap the upper pan's un-drilled turbo oil drain and cleaning all the shavings away BEFORE reinstalling... and also pulling the cylinder head to swap on an OEM 2JZ-GTE head gasket with ARP studs to go from 10.0:1 compression to 9.2:1 compression)

A JDM Aristo 2JZ-GTE Non-VVT-i ECU has traditionally been a very cheap way to get basic engine control for turbocharging a GE but today the aftermarket ECUs are getting so good and so accessible that it may be best to go that route instead.

For turbo the main engine cooling fan with the shroud intact is still very good when combined with one or more auxiliary electric cooling fans that turn on and off with a coolant temp sensor. All electric cooling fan setups are really only reliable by using the PHR dual IS300 OEM cooling fan setup with a custom controller.

Also upgrade the front brakes to at least 95-00 LS400 calipers and plan ahead for an LSD rear end in the appropriate ratio for your transmission with boost. Each transmission does better with a slightly different gear ratio.

You have to choose from: 4.272:1, 4.083:1, 3.916:1, 3.769:1, 3.615:1 (custom built by harvesting a ring and pinion ONLY from an '89-'97 or so LS400), and 3.266:1

Also disable the Neutral Safety Switch with any R-series transmission and start in neutral as that helps preserve the rear crank thrust bearing with those transmissions. W-series transmissions and others don't present this issue. More preventative measure than anything else and very easy to get used to.

Also very good twin disc clutches are available for pretty much all of these transmission options which offer very good high power & torque holding. R-series transmissions have an upward power limit of 750whp (I'm not sure how much torque that would be offhand) but below that should be perfectly fine for 500whp.

Driftmotion and Marlin Crawler offer upgraded internals for the R154 series and also I think the AR5 as well.

...

There are many more things to check off your list but those are a few.

2jzscthree

Thank you so much for such a detailed response really thanks big time. Another question I have if anyone knows can you do 400hp with the original head gasket and transmission? Just thinking to myself maybe it might be a simpler way to do it and still have a fast car. I’ve always said 500 and do it right with all good parts so it’s still reliable but if it’s quadruple the price for just an extra 100hp I’m wondering if it’s worth it just food for thoughts.

KahnBB6

iTrader: (5)

Your W58 isn't really designed to handle the shock loading to the gears that boost gives you. Not the way a JZ engine can throw at a transmission anyway (the W58 was used against the far less powerful 2.0L 1G-GTE I-6 engine with 200-230hp stock but otherwise only with Toyota NA engines).

Some people do use a W58 with boost but long term it is putting that transmission on borrowed time. Different people have different results depending on the total cumulative wear and tear long term with their W58's but eventually boost will kill those transmissions. Depending on how you drive on one with boost you could avert blowing one for years and years of trouble free use-- but others have had different results. I know some people who have been boosting on their W58's trouble free for a very long time. Still... never assume yours will be invincible. Technically no one's is under boost.

Now against a 2JZ-GE or even a 1992-1997 1UZ-FE Non-VVT-i V8 which only puts out 250-260hp/245ft-lbs a W58 will be fine all day long nearly indefinitely other than getting a rebuild at some point.



....

As far as doing 400hp on the original head gasket... I don't think that would be the best idea since the OEM GE head gasket isn't MLS (multi layer steel) like the OEM GTE head gasket. Also it's generally better to bring down the stock compression ratio with the 2JZ-GTE OEM 1.6mm MLS head gasket for tuning purposes. Remember that a factory stock 2JZ-GTE has a very old school boost friendly compression ratio of 8.5:1. So just the roughly 9.2:1 that you'll get with the GTE 1.6mm factory head gasket is a good happy medium that most people have had great success with.

There are some who have tuned carefully with race fuel or 100% E85 (105 octane) on a 10.0:1 compression JZ but that's not generally done or recommended and even so the stock GE head gasket isn't nearly as strong and robust for boost as the GTE OEM or aftermarket boost-capable head gaskets are.

Further, with a 92-97 Non-VVT-i 2JZ-GE out of the box the stock GE pistons and rods (and crank) are just as strong as the stock 2JZ-GTE stock pistons, rods and crank. In fact the cranks are all identical and the 92-97 GE rod are identical to the strong 2JZ-GTE stock rods. The pistons are for GTE's and 92-97 GE's are all made from the same very stout hypereutectic semi-forged process. It is just that the GE piston has much higher compression than the GTE piston. And the cylinder head combustion chambers have some slight differences that also influence the ultimate stock compression ratio for each variant of the JZ engine.

The rule of thumb is that stock 92-97 Non-VVT-i GE stock pistons and 2JZ-GTE stock pistons are technically capable of 700whp MAX with a good and safe tune. But the factory rods from the 92-97 GE and 2JZ-GTE engines are good for up to 500whp with good and safe tune. Getting a machine shop to install ARP rod studs with slight modification to the rods (to preserve their perfect roundness when tightened around the crank at installation) can theoretically make those rod capable of up to 700whp MAX as well.... again so long as your tuner knows what they are doing.

But those are total upper limit ceilings for those parts. At only 400-500whp you would just be right within the original design parameters for these engines as they were designed to handle the stress of 500hp or so all day long even though no JZ was ever sold from the factory with that much power.

But to be clear yes I would change out your stock head gasket among other basic NA-T preparation modifications.

2jzscthree

Again thanks a lot for such a long detailed answer. I’ll keep everyone updated on what I end up doing. Maybe I can get Matt to do another one take after the works done, would be cool to see the before and after.