Kris9884

iTrader: (7)

Starting with the cheap stuff is smart advice, my shop teacher in high school taught us all to "Keep It Simple Stupid" aka KISS.. regretfully, I started backwards and replaced everything without really diagnosing and still have the issue lol. I guess on a glass half full attitude, at least its all done and will never need anything up front again.

SupraMn

I can think of a few things that could clunk;
The steering rack bushings falling apart, but you'd probably have loose steering.
The driveshaft is 2 piece and adjustable, so it could be sliding when braking. However it's bolted onto the trans, diff and center support.
Try tightening the subframe bolts again, but back them out half a turn and torque them to spec with a torque wrench. Maybe even try to jack the subframe up to get the weight off and see if it's noticably loose.

SCFactory

iTrader: (2)

I've never really seen the sway bar bushings go bad its probably lower control arms. Maybe the previous owner lied about them or installed used Supras. You have to just shine light on it and check the rubber, but if its that bad you can move it with your hand.

snatch

Does it happen when rotation starts and get progressively faster as you gain speed? Or does it happen when you hit a bump or go into a turn? This should help determine if its a motion part or stationary part.

I would hook a go-pro up under there and try and recreate it, see if anything shows itself.

Shane

Kris9884

iTrader: (7)

Yeah that's smart but its something shifting that shouldn't be. As stated, everything has been replaced and tightened, then re-checked and re-tightened EXCEPT the struts/springs. I'm grabbing coilovers so I'll update the thread after they are in. Its not a big deal, its not my daily anymore so I'm not too stressed.

Diegolazo5

I had same problem, I jacked up my car from the rear end move the wheels and checked for gameplay.. ended up being the u-joint which is irreplaceable unless aftermarket front driveshaft.

oldManTan

i'm gonna get an alignment next weekend, see if they notice anything, if not, i'll try tightening the sub frame bolts, anyone know the specs on those? i do have a lot of bump steer, when changing lanes over some rough roads my steering will move slightly to the opposite side that i'm turning. my steering rack bushings are brand new though, so i'm guessing it's LCA's.

t2d2

iTrader: (8)

I get that a bit on the rear wheels. Bumps and potholes make the tail shift slightly to that side. I've been assuming LCAs, also.

oldManTan

yea the rear on mine might be because of alignment because i changed the hub and half shaft on one side and never got it realigned. the front however might be a toe alignment issue since i changed the rack bushings and never got that realigned either. so we'll see how it handles after an alignment. the worst is when you're coming to a stop at a light and the road is caved in from trucks stopping on it, i have to hold the wheel really tight so my car doesn't steer into the other lane from the giant bumps in the road.

Kris9884

iTrader: (7)

I have brand new rack bushings and LCA's with an alignment and have the same issue, I can hit a small bump and the car will practically go off the road if I'm not holding the wheel :/.. Gotta be something else. I'm thinking tie rod or wheel bearing?

Blkexcoupe

iTrader: (8)

How old are your tires? How many miles were on them before you got the car aligned with the new parts?

From my experience if the alignment has been off the tires wear matches the bad alignment, so even with a fresh alignment the car will pull with the road like you guys are describing. Usually fresh tires and a new alignment will stop it from following an uneven road.

Torque specs are 94 ft lbs for the (4) 17 mm bolts and 148 ft lbs for the (6) 19mm bolts.

oldManTan

yea my winter tires will go on after the alignment so we'll see how it goes. the tires have over 30k miles on them and are nearing the end of their life, especially the rear one that is extrememly camber worn, and i got a hole in another one so i have some random tire on the other rear wheel. basically it's a really bad set up and lots is gonna change.

oldManTan

winter tires are on, going to get an alignment tomorrow morning. my tires were shot, one was completely bald, and another was wearing extremely weird. the tread was wearing in bumps every other cut in the tread, super weird, never seen that before, shows how bad my alignment was.

Kris9884

iTrader: (7)

Its crazy how much tires make a difference but it also makes sense. I'm about to mount some continental DWS for the winter on my SUV, just not excited about the price of 18's.. :/

oldManTan

so tires are on, alignment is done, shop didn't see anything wrong with it and i tried inspecting myself, i had the car on stands and kept lifting the wheel up and down with a jack but didn't notice anything except one thing.
so i jack up the left wheel which puts pressure on the sway bar, slightly raising the right wheel, when i lower the left wheel the right wheel, as it comes down, jerks and pops, specifically the coil over.

now is that just the friction and torque from the sway bar or do i have a problem with the coilovers? they have over 40k miles on them that i know of. i need to get a better torque wrench and check the subframe bolts before i start buying any parts. if the subframe is fine and i still have clunking, my first purchase will be end links, because my rear links were making a horrible clunk before as well which i fixed. i'll update, this weekend, today i'm changing brake pads, got the rotors resurfaced and damn one of them was horrible because of the awful bumpy tire, took 2 hours to cut it down flat, sucked really badly, probably lost a few thousand miles off the life of those rotors.