So I'm buying an SC300
06-25-15, 07:22 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
So I'm buying an SC300
I'm going tomorrow to look at a manual 1994 sc300 and if checks out I'll almost certainly buy it. I'm trying to understand exactly what I'm getting myself into as far as mods go.
The first thing I'd plan on doing is a suspension upgrade. I'm looking to lower the car no more than an inch or two and cornering ability matters much more to me than ride quality, money is also an issue. Given my needs what would you recommend I do if I had about a $1000 to spend on suspension parts? (I'm thinking some sort of coilovers and new bushings all the way around)
Besides that I would need new front seats, new tires and wheels and a paint job. Once all that's done I'd start in the engine where I'd be content with getting 300-400 whp.
Any thoughts? Feel free to simply direct me to useful threads also.
The first thing I'd plan on doing is a suspension upgrade. I'm looking to lower the car no more than an inch or two and cornering ability matters much more to me than ride quality, money is also an issue. Given my needs what would you recommend I do if I had about a $1000 to spend on suspension parts? (I'm thinking some sort of coilovers and new bushings all the way around)
Besides that I would need new front seats, new tires and wheels and a paint job. Once all that's done I'd start in the engine where I'd be content with getting 300-400 whp.
Any thoughts? Feel free to simply direct me to useful threads also.
06-25-15, 08:18 PM
#2
Hello and welcome! I hope that car checks out when you see it! Some cosmetic flaws are to be expected, fyi. Few unrestored used SC's have perfect interiors at this point, but at least mechanically the owner should have taken care of it.
Make sure the basic maintenance has been covered: recent oil change, timing belt and water pump not over 60K miles, valve cover gaskets not leaking, O2 sensors & spark plugs & wires not needing replacing (plugs are every 60K), clutch in good shape, etc.
And check the suspension bushings. Especially the steering rack bushing and front lower control arms (we commonly use Supra MKIV front LCA's to replace worn factory SC LCA's).
For modifications, I'd recommend looking into the following right out of the box:
Suspension for $1,000: Gixxer_Drew Bilstein/Hypercoil suspension. With 500fr/250rr spring rates. This is an outstanding off-the-shelf DIY coilover system that gives excellent compliance and handling for the money. Unless you can find a good deal on a decent set of used coilovers.
Brakes: I highly recommend making a 95-00 LS400 front brake caliper conversion one of your early priorities. It's a night and day difference in braking performance and safety from the stock brakes. 17" wheels are required that clear the wider calipers.
Wheels: Anything at least 17" in diameter. MKIV TT wheels are a classic go-to option but the sky is the limit on choices.
Seats: Other than re-upholstering the stock seats there are many choices available and many threads here on CL showing different seat conversions for SC's. Supra 93-98 front seats are a bolt-in affair, however. VERY minimal harness conversion is needed to hook up power to the driver's seat and make the seatbelt warning light on the dash operate normally.
Now as to engine power, 300whp-400whp can be attained in a number of ways: a 1JZGTE conversion, 2JZGTE conversion (usually from an Aristo) or an NA-T build. That's a discussion unto itself depending on goals, complexity and budget.
However, when you get to the point of addressing the engine, I recommend looking into an R154 conversion. Your W58 5-speed will handle turbocharged power for a while depending on your driving style but it is a given that it needs to be changed out eventually. They will not last forever when used against a turbo engine.
Then there is also adding an LSD to the car which you can do with your NA ratio but which would be more ideal with a lower 3.92 or 3.77 ratio if you are not planning to wait too long before getting into a turbo setup. Although as a side note, Toyota did sell the Soarer 1JZGTE 5-speed cars with the same 4.083 ratio that SC300 5-speeds came with. This was mostly because the 1JZ came with small turbos from the factory that needed to spool quickly.
Good luck and feel free to ask questions as you determine what your plan will be. There is a wealth of resources and threads here to give you ideas. Here's hoping you like the car!
Make sure the basic maintenance has been covered: recent oil change, timing belt and water pump not over 60K miles, valve cover gaskets not leaking, O2 sensors & spark plugs & wires not needing replacing (plugs are every 60K), clutch in good shape, etc.
And check the suspension bushings. Especially the steering rack bushing and front lower control arms (we commonly use Supra MKIV front LCA's to replace worn factory SC LCA's).
For modifications, I'd recommend looking into the following right out of the box:
Suspension for $1,000: Gixxer_Drew Bilstein/Hypercoil suspension. With 500fr/250rr spring rates. This is an outstanding off-the-shelf DIY coilover system that gives excellent compliance and handling for the money. Unless you can find a good deal on a decent set of used coilovers.
Brakes: I highly recommend making a 95-00 LS400 front brake caliper conversion one of your early priorities. It's a night and day difference in braking performance and safety from the stock brakes. 17" wheels are required that clear the wider calipers.
Wheels: Anything at least 17" in diameter. MKIV TT wheels are a classic go-to option but the sky is the limit on choices.
Seats: Other than re-upholstering the stock seats there are many choices available and many threads here on CL showing different seat conversions for SC's. Supra 93-98 front seats are a bolt-in affair, however. VERY minimal harness conversion is needed to hook up power to the driver's seat and make the seatbelt warning light on the dash operate normally.
Now as to engine power, 300whp-400whp can be attained in a number of ways: a 1JZGTE conversion, 2JZGTE conversion (usually from an Aristo) or an NA-T build. That's a discussion unto itself depending on goals, complexity and budget.
However, when you get to the point of addressing the engine, I recommend looking into an R154 conversion. Your W58 5-speed will handle turbocharged power for a while depending on your driving style but it is a given that it needs to be changed out eventually. They will not last forever when used against a turbo engine.
Then there is also adding an LSD to the car which you can do with your NA ratio but which would be more ideal with a lower 3.92 or 3.77 ratio if you are not planning to wait too long before getting into a turbo setup. Although as a side note, Toyota did sell the Soarer 1JZGTE 5-speed cars with the same 4.083 ratio that SC300 5-speeds came with. This was mostly because the 1JZ came with small turbos from the factory that needed to spool quickly.
Good luck and feel free to ask questions as you determine what your plan will be. There is a wealth of resources and threads here to give you ideas. Here's hoping you like the car!
Last edited by KahnBB6; 06-25-15 at 08:23 PM.
06-25-15, 08:41 PM
#3
Before you consider dropping money on coilovers, you'll really want to address any maintenance issues the car has. Obviously if the stock springs and struts are blown coilovers are a sensible replacement, I only really have experience with BC racing, and Megan LP coilovers on this car, but I enjoyed them both, the BC's more so. But there are a lot of coilovers that people on this forum have used and there are several threads in the suspension subforum where people discuss coilovers at length.
New bushings are a good idea, however the ball joints on these control arms are not replaceable, so if the ball joints are bad, a whole new control arm is needed. Typically the front Lower Control Arms are the ones that go bad on these cars, so be careful just replacing the bushings on the front Lower Control Arms, you'll want to be sure the ball joints have lots of life left, otherwise you'll be better off just buying new Front LCA's. Steering Rack bushings also typically go bad on these cars and can cause some play and shaking in the steering wheel.
Don't bother painting the car unless it's going to be a garage queen and you have another car you're going to daily drive. You can spend a lot of money and time on a nice paint job, and you can bet within a month of daily driving it's going to be scratched, dinged, scuffed, or just hated on. I recently had some body work done, and had all of the ground effects, fenders, and front bumper repainted, and within two days I was at the Fast 7 premiere an a fight broke out... ON MY CAR, they scuffed up my bumper pretty bad and I was pissed, but that kind of thing happens when a car is outside and not in the garage. If you're going to go places and leave it parked, just don't even bother with paint.
But really, whens the last time the timing belt on this car was done? Water pump? Any oil leaks? Does it run well? Rear main seal? Valve cover gaskets? Crank Seal? Serpentine belt tensioner? Starter? Distributor? Does it idle well, or is it rough? How does the radiator fluid look? Does it have any repair reports? You might want to spend money on cool parts and mods, but these cars can sink you if you don't address regular maintenance. Remember the car you're about to buy is old enough to drink, there's gonna be problems just from age. Leaking capacitors in the ECU, cracked or rotting vaccuum lines, oil leaks from the distributor onto the alternator. Torn brake lines. How old is the clutch? Is the harmonic balancer screeching when you clutch out in 1st gear?
It really just goes on and on, and you need to be prepared and ready for this stuff, and until you've replaced these things, or found proof they've been replaced recently they are things you need to be aware of. Also if these things seem off, or havent been replaced recently you can use them as bargaining chips on the sale price. So not having bought it yet can be a good thing.
New bushings are a good idea, however the ball joints on these control arms are not replaceable, so if the ball joints are bad, a whole new control arm is needed. Typically the front Lower Control Arms are the ones that go bad on these cars, so be careful just replacing the bushings on the front Lower Control Arms, you'll want to be sure the ball joints have lots of life left, otherwise you'll be better off just buying new Front LCA's. Steering Rack bushings also typically go bad on these cars and can cause some play and shaking in the steering wheel.
Don't bother painting the car unless it's going to be a garage queen and you have another car you're going to daily drive. You can spend a lot of money and time on a nice paint job, and you can bet within a month of daily driving it's going to be scratched, dinged, scuffed, or just hated on. I recently had some body work done, and had all of the ground effects, fenders, and front bumper repainted, and within two days I was at the Fast 7 premiere an a fight broke out... ON MY CAR, they scuffed up my bumper pretty bad and I was pissed, but that kind of thing happens when a car is outside and not in the garage. If you're going to go places and leave it parked, just don't even bother with paint.
But really, whens the last time the timing belt on this car was done? Water pump? Any oil leaks? Does it run well? Rear main seal? Valve cover gaskets? Crank Seal? Serpentine belt tensioner? Starter? Distributor? Does it idle well, or is it rough? How does the radiator fluid look? Does it have any repair reports? You might want to spend money on cool parts and mods, but these cars can sink you if you don't address regular maintenance. Remember the car you're about to buy is old enough to drink, there's gonna be problems just from age. Leaking capacitors in the ECU, cracked or rotting vaccuum lines, oil leaks from the distributor onto the alternator. Torn brake lines. How old is the clutch? Is the harmonic balancer screeching when you clutch out in 1st gear?
It really just goes on and on, and you need to be prepared and ready for this stuff, and until you've replaced these things, or found proof they've been replaced recently they are things you need to be aware of. Also if these things seem off, or havent been replaced recently you can use them as bargaining chips on the sale price. So not having bought it yet can be a good thing.
06-25-15, 09:36 PM
#4
Wow those responses should be stickied required reading for all new members requesting purchase advice.
These cars are old and you can certainly expect to spend a fair amount just to make them properly road worthy unless you are lucky enough to purchase a build thread car here. Five months in for me and I believe I've driven it maybe a week combined. Including upgrades the post purchase cost has far exceeded what I paid for the car.
If your looking at a 2-4k 200k-mile version then fully expect to pay at least that much again within the next year. Believe me, been there done that now. However I do believe it will pay off.
These cars are old and you can certainly expect to spend a fair amount just to make them properly road worthy unless you are lucky enough to purchase a build thread car here. Five months in for me and I believe I've driven it maybe a week combined. Including upgrades the post purchase cost has far exceeded what I paid for the car.
If your looking at a 2-4k 200k-mile version then fully expect to pay at least that much again within the next year. Believe me, been there done that now. However I do believe it will pay off.
06-25-15, 10:32 PM
#5
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Congrats, man, that's super exciting!!
I got my 95 manual sc300 about 2 months ago and I'm in love with it. Hopefully you'll feel the same! My plan was the same as yours when I first got it... drop the *****. But then came the issues... I needed a power steering rack, my belt tensioner threw my belt, my wheels werent balanced, so on and so forth. Everything that could've prevented me from dropping it happened. Look at everything super carefully. Inspect EVERYTHING. Even my mechanic boyfriend got lazy and didn't check everything. I think instead of spending money on suspension stuff, I might just heat the springs.. it already drives super boaty anyway..
I got my 95 manual sc300 about 2 months ago and I'm in love with it. Hopefully you'll feel the same! My plan was the same as yours when I first got it... drop the *****. But then came the issues... I needed a power steering rack, my belt tensioner threw my belt, my wheels werent balanced, so on and so forth. Everything that could've prevented me from dropping it happened. Look at everything super carefully. Inspect EVERYTHING. Even my mechanic boyfriend got lazy and didn't check everything. I think instead of spending money on suspension stuff, I might just heat the springs.. it already drives super boaty anyway..
06-26-15, 07:24 AM
#8
Hello and welcome! I hope that car checks out when you see it! Some cosmetic flaws are to be expected, fyi. Few unrestored used SC's have perfect interiors at this point, but at least mechanically the owner should have taken care of it.
Make sure the basic maintenance has been covered: recent oil change, timing belt and water pump not over 60K miles, valve cover gaskets not leaking, O2 sensors & spark plugs & wires not needing replacing (plugs are every 60K), clutch in good shape, etc.
And check the suspension bushings. Especially the steering rack bushing and front lower control arms (we commonly use Supra MKIV front LCA's to replace worn factory SC LCA's).
For modifications, I'd recommend looking into the following right out of the box:
Suspension for $1,000: Gixxer_Drew Bilstein/Hypercoil suspension. With 500fr/250rr spring rates. This is an outstanding off-the-shelf DIY coilover system that gives excellent compliance and handling for the money. Unless you can find a good deal on a decent set of used coilovers.
Brakes: I highly recommend making a 95-00 LS400 front brake caliper conversion one of your early priorities. It's a night and day difference in braking performance and safety from the stock brakes. 17" wheels are required that clear the wider calipers.
Wheels: Anything at least 17" in diameter. MKIV TT wheels are a classic go-to option but the sky is the limit on choices.
Seats: Other than re-upholstering the stock seats there are many choices available and many threads here on CL showing different seat conversions for SC's. Supra 93-98 front seats are a bolt-in affair, however. VERY minimal harness conversion is needed to hook up power to the driver's seat and make the seatbelt warning light on the dash operate normally.
Now as to engine power, 300whp-400whp can be attained in a number of ways: a 1JZGTE conversion, 2JZGTE conversion (usually from an Aristo) or an NA-T build. That's a discussion unto itself depending on goals, complexity and budget.
However, when you get to the point of addressing the engine, I recommend looking into an R154 conversion. Your W58 5-speed will handle turbocharged power for a while depending on your driving style but it is a given that it needs to be changed out eventually. They will not last forever when used against a turbo engine.
Then there is also adding an LSD to the car which you can do with your NA ratio but which would be more ideal with a lower 3.92 or 3.77 ratio if you are not planning to wait too long before getting into a turbo setup. Although as a side note, Toyota did sell the Soarer 1JZGTE 5-speed cars with the same 4.083 ratio that SC300 5-speeds came with. This was mostly because the 1JZ came with small turbos from the factory that needed to spool quickly.
Good luck and feel free to ask questions as you determine what your plan will be. There is a wealth of resources and threads here to give you ideas. Here's hoping you like the car!
Make sure the basic maintenance has been covered: recent oil change, timing belt and water pump not over 60K miles, valve cover gaskets not leaking, O2 sensors & spark plugs & wires not needing replacing (plugs are every 60K), clutch in good shape, etc.
And check the suspension bushings. Especially the steering rack bushing and front lower control arms (we commonly use Supra MKIV front LCA's to replace worn factory SC LCA's).
For modifications, I'd recommend looking into the following right out of the box:
Suspension for $1,000: Gixxer_Drew Bilstein/Hypercoil suspension. With 500fr/250rr spring rates. This is an outstanding off-the-shelf DIY coilover system that gives excellent compliance and handling for the money. Unless you can find a good deal on a decent set of used coilovers.
Brakes: I highly recommend making a 95-00 LS400 front brake caliper conversion one of your early priorities. It's a night and day difference in braking performance and safety from the stock brakes. 17" wheels are required that clear the wider calipers.
Wheels: Anything at least 17" in diameter. MKIV TT wheels are a classic go-to option but the sky is the limit on choices.
Seats: Other than re-upholstering the stock seats there are many choices available and many threads here on CL showing different seat conversions for SC's. Supra 93-98 front seats are a bolt-in affair, however. VERY minimal harness conversion is needed to hook up power to the driver's seat and make the seatbelt warning light on the dash operate normally.
Now as to engine power, 300whp-400whp can be attained in a number of ways: a 1JZGTE conversion, 2JZGTE conversion (usually from an Aristo) or an NA-T build. That's a discussion unto itself depending on goals, complexity and budget.
However, when you get to the point of addressing the engine, I recommend looking into an R154 conversion. Your W58 5-speed will handle turbocharged power for a while depending on your driving style but it is a given that it needs to be changed out eventually. They will not last forever when used against a turbo engine.
Then there is also adding an LSD to the car which you can do with your NA ratio but which would be more ideal with a lower 3.92 or 3.77 ratio if you are not planning to wait too long before getting into a turbo setup. Although as a side note, Toyota did sell the Soarer 1JZGTE 5-speed cars with the same 4.083 ratio that SC300 5-speeds came with. This was mostly because the 1JZ came with small turbos from the factory that needed to spool quickly.
Good luck and feel free to ask questions as you determine what your plan will be. There is a wealth of resources and threads here to give you ideas. Here's hoping you like the car!
Great post, Is there a DIY for each of the items you suggested to inspect around here? I'm new to the 1J/2J/UZ scene so any guides, or instructions laying on the web for these systems would be appreciated. I'm a full time IT guy and on my down time I mess around with building drift cars so I'm not as fluent in mechanical work as full time mechanics.
06-27-15, 02:56 PM
#9
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I went and checked the car and it seems nice, there's a few things I'd love to have opinions on though. For the interior it needs a drivers side door panel, both seats (at least bottoms), and it needs the climate control display. There was also an issue where the throttle stuck at about 5500rpm. It appeared to just be a problem with a spring on the throttle body. I'm probably going to get it inspected and decide on it Monday. All this considered, should this be a solid car at about $4k?
06-27-15, 03:49 PM
#10
Great post, Is there a DIY for each of the items you suggested to inspect around here? I'm new to the 1J/2J/UZ scene so any guides, or instructions laying on the web for these systems would be appreciated. I'm a full time IT guy and on my down time I mess around with building drift cars so I'm not as fluent in mechanical work as full time mechanics.
I went and checked the car and it seems nice, there's a few things I'd love to have opinions on though. For the interior it needs a drivers side door panel, both seats (at least bottoms), and it needs the climate control display. There was also an issue where the throttle stuck at about 5500rpm. It appeared to just be a problem with a spring on the throttle body. I'm probably going to get it inspected and decide on it Monday. All this considered, should this be a solid car at about $4k?
-- Seats can be reupholstered quite readily from a number of vendors. Or you can source better condition seats or an alternative seat. That's also pretty common with cars this old.
-- Climate control LCD display being burned out is a VERY common issue on SC's. It's to be expected when purchasing. The replacement repair is readily available from several vendors on ebay or (I think?) Tanin Auto, who also replace burned out instrument cluster needles. Just AVOID Lextech Lighting for any service on your climate or dash instruments.
-- The throttle cable sticking does sound like it's just a minor readjustment from being back to normal, yes.
All of those things considered I do think they are minor and easily addressable concerns in a $4k original 5-speed, yes. When you get it inspected on Monday, try to determine if the timing belt was changed within the 60K miles interval. Even that wouldn't be a dealbreaker to me, personally, but if it's due you will need to address it.
Lastly, other than getting new remote keys made, don't bother with a Lexus dealer. The engine and all service parts are identical to what is in a 93-95 Supra non-turbo 5-speed. Same with the transmission, other than its shifter assembly (since you are looking at a 1994 model). Any competent shop you already have a good relationship with or a Toyota dealer that offers service to Lexus vehicles can take care of your car. Unless you happen to have a good relationship with a Lexus dealer you trust already and prefer to use them, though they will be more expensive.
The small list of concerns you have mentioned so far, OP, are very minor, easy to fix and common to these cars.
Last edited by KahnBB6; 06-27-15 at 03:55 PM.
06-27-15, 04:16 PM
#11
^^^ Above being said I still wouldn't pay $4k for it. Try to talk him down to $3k, quote costs to fix the interior, maybe he'll counter offer $3.5k which is suitable so long as it runs right and the suspension doesnt have any creaks or obvious issues.
Any info about last time the timing belt, water pump etc have been done?
Any info about last time the timing belt, water pump etc have been done?
06-27-15, 10:14 PM
#12
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Yeah, I'm thinking $3.5k would be my highest price if there's no major problems when I have it checked out. I think it's a solid car. If I get the car for that price I'll have around $1500 to put in to it immediately, I'm not sure what I'd do besides the interior fixes.
06-29-15, 09:19 PM
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07-05-15, 11:57 PM
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If you arent trying to make it a track car or whatnot you can get a good strut and spring setup for quite a bit cheaper that will give you a nice drop and nice smooth ride. Put money saved into a set of ls brakes or whatever your heart desires. I have spring/ strut on my car with no complaints whatsoever
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