TheAzn

iTrader: (2)

Would you guys say this is likely the rear main seal?

I lost a quart over a span of less than a week, I drive 50 miles each week day. I don't beat my car, easy driving most of the time.

Recently changed the lower oil pan, I doubt it is leaking. Also changed the leaky oil filter bracket, so that's solved. PCV is also fine.

No smoke from oil buring comes out the tail pipe. I have not seen any oil spots wherever I park. I don't even smell oil being burned off.

I have UV dye which I'll use to hopefully pinpoint the location of the leak more accurately.

Just want to see what you guys think or perhaps if you guys had a bad rear main seal before and what was your experiences from it.

My SC is a 95 5-speed.

First pic, I wiped the area. Then a drive home.


Another round trip drive.


At this point I lost up to a 1/4 quart.

mikef

iTrader: (3)

its easier to remove the whole engine and trans to replace the rear main seal then just dropping the trans.

Sweatshop

iTrader: (11)

Clean everything up under there and try a bottle of Blue Devil Main Sealer with your next oil change. Heard it works wonders....

ems

iTrader: (1)

Yeah I've pulled my tranny 4 times since nov. It sucks, but not terrible. I've become extremely efficient at it. Takes about three beers and two hours.
1.tighten flywheel bolts
2.replace flywheel bolts
3.replace rear main
4. REAR MAIN HOUSING SEAL, that's what was actually leaking. Frustrating as hell, but she's good now.

TheAzn

iTrader: (2)

I don't have time like that lol only because my SC is my only car.

When you say the rear main housing, you're talking about the metal piece around the rear main seal itself? Just making sure. How is it installed or sealed with, like with FIPG? Does it require the second oil pan removed?

mikef

iTrader: (3)

You shouldn't have to remove the oil pan and it's a total pain to remove the flywheel bolts from such a high torque
but it's all possible

ems

iTrader: (1)

No oil pan can stay, it's just the bolts on the face and wil pull straight back. It's a two man Saturday job for sure.

irondonkey

yup that's the rear main seal.

good thing i had a lexus master tech do it for me. i traded him some car parts for the labor.

it a pain in the assssssss to do rear main seals.

Red300

had a similar situation (oil leak).thought it was rear seal. found the problem was valve cover gasket.

mikef

iTrader: (3)

I think having a manual transmission is easier to remove because you don't have all that auto shifter stuff to unbolt.

TheAzn

iTrader: (2)

Red300, I checked the valve cover on mine. I used a mirror and a flashlight to see the backside against the firewall, virtually dry. Especially on the topside of the bellhousing, it's clean.

I just ordered genuine Lexus parts. So far: rear main seal, seal housing, clutch fork, clutch fork ball, slave cylinder and a neutral safety switch for the pedal (mines becoming faulty). I need to find where to buy the pressure plate bolts and flywheels bolts, probably just get it at a dealer. And then a nee clutch and flywheel, both will be upgraded. SPEC 2 clutch, maybe Fidanza or SPEC flywheel.

All because of a likely bad rear main seal. Change the things that would need changing anyways since it all has to come out. I never replaced the clutch yet since I bought the SC back in September 2012. Not 100% if the previous owners did either. Sure be damned if the clutch has the same miles as the whole car... 314k miles.

salimshah

Valve cover leak, smells more as the oil runs down the hot engine.

Salim

bigwhite

My 1uz is a leaking all over. Going to put it in a shop that I am confident can do the job right. New valve cover gaskets, oil pan, front and rear main seals, engine pull and reinstall. $1500.00

ems

iTrader: (1)

driftmotion

irondonkey

do a 1jzgte swap lol