SC- 1st Gen (1992-2000)

quick NA-T oil drain line question... plate to oil pan?

Old 05-03-15, 07:20 PM
  #1  
Golden95SC
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
iTrader: (21)
 
Golden95SC's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Bakersfield, Ca.
Posts: 496
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default quick NA-T oil drain line question... plate to oil pan?

Figured out the lines

Now will a standard 10an drain flange fit on the oil pan?

Like so?

http://pages.ebay.com/motors/link/?n...335474&alt=web

Lmk thanks

Last edited by Golden95SC; 05-03-15 at 08:31 PM.
Old 05-04-15, 12:16 PM
  #2  
Luxor
Pole Position
iTrader: (15)
 
Luxor's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Arizona
Posts: 2,331
Received 36 Likes on 31 Posts
Default

That flange is for the turbo, not the oil pan. The holes are probably not even spaced out the same as the indents on your oil pan. I would recommend getting one specific for 2JZ such as the one in one of my old threads. https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...bo-return.html
Old 05-04-15, 02:16 PM
  #3  
Kris9884
Racer
iTrader: (7)
 
Kris9884's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: OR
Posts: 1,805
Received 26 Likes on 21 Posts
Default

As he stated if you don't want to drop the oil pan that ^^^^^^^^^^ is THEE easiest way to do it. If you are removing the oil pan for whatever reason than definitely grab a drain plug adapter, that way it tightens to itself and will never leak. Cant go wrong either way really.

Old 05-04-15, 02:44 PM
  #4  
Golden95SC
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
iTrader: (21)
 
Golden95SC's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Bakersfield, Ca.
Posts: 496
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

What If I just drilled out the hole, thread it and throw a fitting in ther?

Example
Old 05-04-15, 03:13 PM
  #5  
Kris9884
Racer
iTrader: (7)
 
Kris9884's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: OR
Posts: 1,805
Received 26 Likes on 21 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Golden95SC
What If I just drilled out the hole, thread it and throw a fitting in ther?
To me, its not the cleanest method and I feel like it would be more prone to leaking but I dont have any hard facts.. My thinking is since the actual hole and threads that you have to make are recessed into the block a bit, you have to get a really long fitting to thread in enough to hold yet still stick out enough to where it can seat, if that makes sense lol. THEN you still dont have a gasket so you can only hope it's a tight enough fir or gob a bunch of sealant onaround it but again, to me it's a possible problem area, I just like to do things right, even if 'it's harder. You'll thank yourself later. I guess my best example is from ASwilley who just did his actually. All of his work is really clean but this I feel is the one spot he may have skimped on? Maybe not..

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/bui...ml#post9024915
Old 05-05-15, 04:38 AM
  #6  
Golden95SC
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
iTrader: (21)
 
Golden95SC's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Bakersfield, Ca.
Posts: 496
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

Ok gotcha guys, a 1jzgte/2jzgte oil pan flange is the same for the 2jzge correct?
http://pages.ebay.com/motors/link/?n...223672&alt=web

Last edited by Golden95SC; 05-05-15 at 04:43 AM.
Old 05-05-15, 09:20 AM
  #7  
CatManD3W
Pole Position
iTrader: (18)
 
CatManD3W's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 2,207
Received 25 Likes on 17 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Golden95SC
Ok gotcha guys, a 1jzgte/2jzgte oil pan flange is the same for the 2jzge correct?
http://pages.ebay.com/motors/link/?n...223672&alt=web
Yea that should work fine....you are going to need to tap and die two bolt holes though for the flange to attach to......

Also I would drill the hole out the same size as the opening....

The best method is to have a -10 an welded onto the pan...but that requires the pan to be completely removed...
Old 05-05-15, 10:24 AM
  #8  
Ali SC3
Lexus Champion

iTrader: (10)
 
Ali SC3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: CO
Posts: 10,755
Received 438 Likes on 368 Posts
Default

I have a fitting threaded in mine, I used to use the flange at some point then switched. probably going to go back to the flange on the next turbo upgrade. as long as the oil gets back in the pan it should be ok.
Old 05-06-15, 05:12 PM
  #9  
Golden95SC
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
iTrader: (21)
 
Golden95SC's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Bakersfield, Ca.
Posts: 496
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

Alright got it all sorted out, finished the last of my ordering, completed my oil lines, fitings and flanges


I ordered the driftmotion AZ oil pan flange, looks like a nice piece

Now 1 more quick question. I've.never actually looked at the oil pan, are the bolt holes already drilled out? I just have to tap them? I was looking at taps, and I noticed there's a tap and and plug bit? Little confusing lol.

Il be using oem studs and nuts for it, so sizing is the m8x1.25

As far as drilling the pan for the return I shouldn't have a problem.
Old 05-31-15, 06:27 PM
  #10  
Golden95SC
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
iTrader: (21)
 
Golden95SC's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Bakersfield, Ca.
Posts: 496
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

Ok so I purchased a tapping kit, the box says it had a m8x1.25 but I don't see it...

There's one labeled as m8.

Is this tap the correct one?
Old 05-31-15, 06:51 PM
  #11  
Ali SC3
Lexus Champion

iTrader: (10)
 
Ali SC3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: CO
Posts: 10,755
Received 438 Likes on 368 Posts
Default

yeah its usually just the one that says m8 on it. the 2 holes for the studs should be drilled out from the factory if I remember right you just have to tap them.
Old 05-31-15, 07:20 PM
  #12  
SCereal
Lead Lap
iTrader: (4)
 
SCereal's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: FL
Posts: 420
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Yup, as I recall the stud holes just need tapped. I used my tap in a ratchet wrench, there's no room for the t handle to spin. It is a pain to do in the car but can be done. I used a right angle drill with a step bit to bore out the center return hole with generous amounts of grease to catch the shavings. Best way to do it is of course pull the pan but the grease will catch most of it then just drain the oil after you're done and that'll flush any bits out. Drill on it for a couple seconds, wipe it off, regrease, repeat. Not a ton of material there to get through.

I used oem studs, nuts and gasket from Curt at Elmhurst and a nice 10AN flange i think from DM. Worked great, no leaks so far but motor only has 30 minutes on it running by now lol.
Old 05-31-15, 07:34 PM
  #13  
Golden95SC
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
iTrader: (21)
 
Golden95SC's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Bakersfield, Ca.
Posts: 496
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

Ok great thanks guys.
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
joaqin
GX - 1st Gen (2004-2009)
4
01-30-16 07:21 PM
TwoForDee1
LS - 3rd Gen (2001-2006)
1
02-15-14 11:22 AM
GRPFAN
RX - 3rd Gen (2010-2015)
11
03-26-12 09:14 AM
ice7
Maintenance
2
02-02-05 02:00 PM


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Quick Reply: quick NA-T oil drain line question... plate to oil pan?



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 02:13 AM.