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Advice before buying 2JZ SC...

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Old 11-27-14, 03:39 AM
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maaaaackle
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Default Advice before buying 2JZ SC...

Hey guys, I'm looking at a buddy's SC. It comes with the 2JZGTE swap already and he's letting it go to me for a pretty good deal.

The parts list includes a Precision 6266 turbo, R154 tranny, turbosmart wastegate on FSR cast manifold, and a lot more.

But of course, there is a downside. The engine has some rod knock at high RPM's. At idle it sounds fine. Could I get away with replacing just the block? Or am I looking at potentially a bigger headache? Any input is welcome! I'm still fairly new to the 2JZ world so any kind of guidance would be appreciated.

Edit - I'm probably missing some vital information....so just let me know and I'll try to get that updated!

Last edited by maaaaackle; 11-27-14 at 03:48 AM.
Old 11-27-14, 12:07 PM
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How much? The block could easily be rebuilt. But the fact that it is already swapped is the best part.
Old 11-27-14, 10:52 PM
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maaaaackle
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Originally Posted by CIGLexus
How much? The block could easily be rebuilt. But the fact that it is already swapped is the best part.
Im paying only $3500 for it.


Originally Posted by GSXMike
I would walk away from it. Sounds like someone elses problem. At the least you would need to pull the motor to replace bearings. Worst case full bottom end rebuild depending on how bad the issue is.

I've found that so many in the SC community try to do a turbo GTE swap and most of them turn out hacked up with many details skipped. Either pony up the cash for a well sorted turbo SC, or buy a stock car and modify it yourself.
I totally get you. But this is my buddy and I can vouch that his swap is not hacked up. But it did end up with rod knock.

I guess I'll just put a GE block to the GTE head and do a simple rebuild...is that a good idea?
Old 11-30-14, 12:38 AM
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2jznosht
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Not sure what advice you are looking for...rod knock is the closest to a ticking sound you are gonna get from that time bomb. The motor is gonna pop
Old 11-30-14, 04:11 AM
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Go BUY IT !

With just those parts you mentioned above, PT6266, R154, Wastegate and FSR Cast Manifold , you already got your $3500 back.

I bet that car has an intercooler, BOV , 3" downpipe / midpipe / exhaust... complete shell / interior / wheels & tires will be FREE for you !

Hell yeah ... grab it before someone else buys it. It is one hell of a deal. As you said, cheapest route if you don't want to spend much is get a 2jzge short block for $500 or less . Damn, since it is a rod knock only, GTE block maybe good and sell it for $400 even if the crank is bad. A lot of people are looking for the GTE blocks and are getting harder to find.

EDIT : Not to mention, just the GTE head with valve covers, coil covers and with stock cams (what if it has aftermarket cams ?) are already worth at least $800. Your engine harness is worth at least $600. You get that harness done , I will guarantee you it will cost you more. If that R154 have a good clutch on it, that would be another item worth at least $500. If that car has an Auto TT LSD diff , that is another $800. And am pretty sure there are other items like mid sump oil pans, fuel regulator, lines and fittings , injectors & rail (having a PT6266, I presume , he is using bigger than the stock 440cc injectors) , etc.... when summed up could cost a fortune . So even if you don't want the car... sell the parts you won't use on a build you are planning, you get back your money , probably more and get a lot of free parts for your build. Best way to build your toy as I kept on mentioning. You can't go wrong if your friend is selling it to you for $3500 and you buy it.

Last edited by gerrb; 11-30-14 at 10:48 AM.
Old 11-30-14, 04:36 PM
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maaaaackle
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I'll post some pictures soon. Sorry, the car is on a lot and the lot is gated and the gate has been locked on the weekends so I'm gonna take pics this week!
Old 12-01-14, 09:24 AM
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If you were closer id trade you for a ge block that runs. That seems like a good deal pics pics pics
Old 12-02-14, 05:07 AM
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Originally Posted by GSXMike
True. I gathered that the op wasn't ready to do a rebuild but if it does have a gte motor it would be cheaper than if he had to source a gte motor. I think a jdm gte goes for 6500? But how much will a rebuild cost him now? At least 3500 and that's not including a lot of details.

Still need pics to really deicide.
Not sure where you grabbed the prices you mentioned but I believe they are way too high. I am pretty sure about that since I have a few of them. You can even get a BRAND NEW 2jzgte short block from a Toyota Dealership for $2500 . A JDM 2jzgte VVTI swap with auto transmission is around $1650 plus $250 shipping. A non-VVTI swap is around $2200 plus $250 shipping. Since he only needs a good short block, it makes sense just to get a VVTI . The short block of vvti and non vvti 2jzgte are the same. Depending on where the OP is, there are probably some local JDM dealers not far away so he can save much of the shipping cost if he picks it up which is more advantageous since he can inspect and do some testing like compression and leak down tests.

If he plays his cards well and be patient, he can even end up with a free short block if he buys a vvti 2jzgte from a JDM dealer . How ? He can sell the head for $500, valve covers $200 , coil cover $75, coils $100 , cams $75 , oil pan $100, plenum / runner / throttle body $200, harness $150 , ECU $100, auto transmission $200 , small parts like oil cooler , alternator , power steering pump, crank dampener, tensioner, AC compressor, coolant elbow with sensors, MAP sensor.. that is at least another $300 . Then , more likely his gte block is good and can be sold for $400. These are the current market prices for these parts . Sum the figures I just mentioned and he will get a good free short block and even made a bit. This will be the way I will do it if it was me.

So even without pictures, for me , knowing the prices of parts that are on that 2jzgte swapped car , buying that car for $3500 is a no brainer if he has the money and is wanting a 2jzgte car. It is a good way to start or collect parts . He can keep what he wants and sell the rests he doesn't want and can end up having free parts for his build. As I keep on mentioning... best way to build your toys... "grab a good deal, keep what you need and sell what you don't need". With the asking price, the shell / interior / wheels & tires and a lot of other parts will all be FREEBIES so who cares how the car look. He could sell it if he doesn't want it . There are tons of small parts on a 2jzGTE swapped car that when summed up can cost a fortune. I mentioned some of them in my previous post. Surely that car has them . A lot of people think that you buy the engine swap and you can now have a GTE swapped car. It is the small parts that will nickel and dime you that is why you see a lot of people abandoning their projects even if they have the engine swap already.

Let us assume for a moment , the car looks terrible. He can still get back his money and get free parts for his build. Terrible looking car without engine but with complete interior / wheels & tires , sell it for $800 , 2jzgte block $400 , mid sump oil pan $200 , head $500, coil cover $50, Valve Covers $200, Coils $100 , Igniter $50 , GTE engine harness $500 , stock ECU $100, if stock injectors (more likely not since he has pt6266 & R154) $75, intake plenum / runner / throttle body $250 , MAP sensor $50 , IACV 100, coolant elbow with sensors $50 That alone is almost $3500... he still have tons of parts to get at least $800 like intercooler and pipings, blowoff valve, clutch , downpipe/midpipe / exhaust AC compressor, PS pump, alternator, crank dampener and others.... AFTER getting back his money and a profit , HE HAS the R154 , PT6266, wastegate and cast manifold FREE for his build.. and those costs a pretty penny even at second hand.... $3000 at least.

You can build your toy without spending tons of money if you play your cards right and be patient. As I always said, no way I can afford to have 5 built 2jzgte toys if I am buying stuff at market prices. If we judge a car based on how a car looks externally , we end up missing or passing up on a lot of good performance stuff .



OP - I hope you won't mind me answering your PM to me here so others can benefit.

* Can you just use a good GE Short Block since you can get it for less than $500 ?

Yes , your friend is right .. you can. Just use an OEM GTE head gasket. Crank and Rods of GTE and GE are same. Pistons are not . GTE has oil squitters while GE do not have one. Oil supply for turbo on GTE can be had on the exhaust side while on GE you can get it on the intake side by using an IS300 filter bolt. But yes you can use a GE block if you don't want to spend that much.

* Will there be reliability issues if you use a GE short block ?

None at all . A lot of people on NA-T which uses the GE blocks are pushing 500rwhp and above on that stock short block. It all depends on your setup. Understanding its limitations and how all the individual parts you put in play their role. As long as the setup is done right and run right .. you can have a good +500rwhp daily driver.

Last edited by gerrb; 12-02-14 at 07:03 AM.
Old 12-02-14, 06:27 PM
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maaaaackle
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Sorry for the delay in getting pictures! Heavy rain over here with the car parked outside just makes it a little annoying to stand outside and get drenched for taking a couple pics. I'll do it when the weather gets better

Tahnk you for all the input though!
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