should i buy this 95 sc300 2jzge boosted?
#16
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I love my is300! Im just craving boost lol I would boost my stock vvti ge but I don't wanna be afraid of it blowing..
Ill be happy with 325-350 whp
I just miss the boosted fun lol
What would u guys do with my car? I posted in the is section but get no replies lol
Pic of my car..
Ill be happy with 325-350 whp
I just miss the boosted fun lol
What would u guys do with my car? I posted in the is section but get no replies lol
Pic of my car..
#17
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if the price is right, id buy it. I dont know about anybody else but I have to pull fuel on my car under boost, so it could just be running rich. lots of scaredy cats that have little or no actual dealing with NA-T. Mine has been on just an SAFC for 2 years and runs and drives like a dream.
If you want the car, do it. if youre keeping your is then if the car is junk or whatever, swap the parts over.
If you want the car, do it. if youre keeping your is then if the car is junk or whatever, swap the parts over.
#18
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if the price is right, id buy it. I dont know about anybody else but I have to pull fuel on my car under boost, so it could just be running rich. lots of scaredy cats that have little or no actual dealing with NA-T. Mine has been on just an SAFC for 2 years and runs and drives like a dream..
btw a good friend of mine who has been in the sc300 turbo world long before clublexus ( and who is a member here since 2001)had a unopened ge na-t setup on same safc running around 6 psi that he bought from someone locally for the hell of it and two weeks ago cracked and fried piston rings and blew headgasket due to detonation .. i guess you are lucky one
Last edited by lexforlife; 02-08-13 at 04:28 AM.
#19
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Keep your IS and drop a gte swap in it but you will have to bang your firewall so the twins can fit or go single if you don't wanna bang the firewall.
IS300 +Aristo VVTi swap and have fun that's what i would do if i were you!
GL
IS300 +Aristo VVTi swap and have fun that's what i would do if i were you!
GL
#20
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if the price is right, id buy it. I dont know about anybody else but I have to pull fuel on my car under boost, so it could just be running rich. lots of scaredy cats that have little or no actual dealing with NA-T. Mine has been on just an SAFC for 2 years and runs and drives like a dream.
If you want the car, do it. if youre keeping your is then if the car is junk or whatever, swap the parts over.
If you want the car, do it. if youre keeping your is then if the car is junk or whatever, swap the parts over.
Mine being a built na-t running 14 psi on a stock gte ecu
I wouldnt mind seeing what a car with an safc runs like, Id personally be scared too because of zero timing control and i know the GE ecu is finicky as it is.
#21
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^^^ Lol i've never own own a na-t with safc but all the people i have met that were running safc on the with the stock ge ecu said it was a POS LOL so i never actually tried it will never try it on the ge ecu.
Gte ECU is the way to go!
Gte ECU is the way to go!
#22
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I was at 11 psi with the stock ge ecu and just a safc, and it worked fine for months. It was so slow though in boost with that Ecu.
would want to stall at traffic lights or whenever the blow off valve went off, but one can drive around that (slam it into 2nd when slowing down after a boost, or just neutal rev it out which turns heads).
One day, the same normal pull, timing or fuel goes all funny not really sure and I just heard the loudest bad sound I ever heard come from my motor, I let off instantly, it sounded like a massive backfire through the engine while I was in boost. luckily I didn't damage anything, but that ecu setup got trashed very soon after that. I imagine If I had tried it a few more times or it had been a little worse my 2jz would be done for. when we opened it up the motor was clean, so I consider myself pretty lucky, but it can take alot to hurt a 2jz.
If the maf is in front of the turbo, it might be alright go test it out and drive it and if its running good you can do the gte ecu mod.
If the maf is in blowthrough as in in the intercooler piping, and there is no safc or anything, walk away, quickly.
Just boost the IS though or do a swap. The vvti is weaker but it can handle those power levels easy with a proper Ecu.
would want to stall at traffic lights or whenever the blow off valve went off, but one can drive around that (slam it into 2nd when slowing down after a boost, or just neutal rev it out which turns heads).
One day, the same normal pull, timing or fuel goes all funny not really sure and I just heard the loudest bad sound I ever heard come from my motor, I let off instantly, it sounded like a massive backfire through the engine while I was in boost. luckily I didn't damage anything, but that ecu setup got trashed very soon after that. I imagine If I had tried it a few more times or it had been a little worse my 2jz would be done for. when we opened it up the motor was clean, so I consider myself pretty lucky, but it can take alot to hurt a 2jz.
If the maf is in front of the turbo, it might be alright go test it out and drive it and if its running good you can do the gte ecu mod.
If the maf is in blowthrough as in in the intercooler piping, and there is no safc or anything, walk away, quickly.
Just boost the IS though or do a swap. The vvti is weaker but it can handle those power levels easy with a proper Ecu.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 02-08-13 at 10:22 AM.
#23
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. I cant imagine the safc doing well with any type of double digit boost numbers just considering how it works with the ge ecu in comparison to other aftermarket tuning measures.
#24
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I think I know the steps of the gte swap good enough to do the swap 90% then trailer it somewhere to get all the wirIng done haha
I would love to find a place decently close to my location here in wv but who knows..
Thanks guys for the input!
Wish me luck lol
I would love to find a place decently close to my location here in wv but who knows..
Thanks guys for the input!
Wish me luck lol
#25
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or just slap a turbo on it, its easy you already have the oil feed done on the vvti, just drill a drain and slap that turbo on there. use the rest of your money to buy a good ecu and call it a day.
If you are gonna keep it under 400hp there is no need to swap motors and your IS motor is probably in better condition than un unknown motor swap that may need a tear down for piece of mind. Good luck!!!
If you are gonna keep it under 400hp there is no need to swap motors and your IS motor is probably in better condition than un unknown motor swap that may need a tear down for piece of mind. Good luck!!!
#26
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Im not trying to say anyone is an idiot or anything and not trying to get under anyones skin...
Ive been a professional mechanic most of my adult life (im in my 30's) and grew up in my dads shop building HIGH hp cars with him. Ive built many many turbo, S/c and nitrous cars than I can remember. I know for a fact my car runs great, I dont get any kind of stall condition, I get PERFECT AFR's at cruise, at idle (which is 750~) and under boost. Im pulling fuel under boost and adjusted my timing myself. I also did the knock mod on my SAFC and have logged knock while tuning it on the dyno.
Now, Ill add that Im fully aware there are better methods of tuning my car and I do have plans to upgrade in the near future, but i dont street race or track race for that matter as i dont care to or have time. I have had literally no concerns with my car in the nearly 2 years (and nearly 30k miles) its been boosted so I will say that i speak from experience when I say that, at least in my case, SAFC works just fine.
Later this spring when i oull my head to do a MHG and some other goodies, I will take pics to show how my engine is, and Im willing to bet I will see no problems, and Ive had it around 12 psi this whole time, it was dynoed at 10psi so my HP numbers are a little low.
Ive been a professional mechanic most of my adult life (im in my 30's) and grew up in my dads shop building HIGH hp cars with him. Ive built many many turbo, S/c and nitrous cars than I can remember. I know for a fact my car runs great, I dont get any kind of stall condition, I get PERFECT AFR's at cruise, at idle (which is 750~) and under boost. Im pulling fuel under boost and adjusted my timing myself. I also did the knock mod on my SAFC and have logged knock while tuning it on the dyno.
Now, Ill add that Im fully aware there are better methods of tuning my car and I do have plans to upgrade in the near future, but i dont street race or track race for that matter as i dont care to or have time. I have had literally no concerns with my car in the nearly 2 years (and nearly 30k miles) its been boosted so I will say that i speak from experience when I say that, at least in my case, SAFC works just fine.
Later this spring when i oull my head to do a MHG and some other goodies, I will take pics to show how my engine is, and Im willing to bet I will see no problems, and Ive had it around 12 psi this whole time, it was dynoed at 10psi so my HP numbers are a little low.
#28
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be careful sir .. a unopened improperly tuned ge na-t setup at 10psi could have been detonating itself to a slow death .. if they were not using a good tuneable ecu , do a full compression test , leakdown test and invest in a remote mini camera that you can stick down the sparkplug holes and look at the tops of the piston .. oem 15+ hg being on boost does not ususally hold up for long .. as a fellow nat'er who builds these , again be careful for it can turn into a money pit real fast
Buying a car that has already been turboed by 'some guy' in my opinion is a bad move, you can be sure hes been beating on it , and testing the limits of the car and the engine, this is the last person u want to buy from.
chances are this guys been redlining, doing burnouts, quarter mile time trials and smoke shows to his friends ,,,dont pick up his leftovers.
Last edited by 1WILLY1; 02-09-13 at 01:04 AM.
#29
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Im not trying to say anyone is an idiot or anything and not trying to get under anyones skin...
Ive been a professional mechanic most of my adult life (im in my 30's) and grew up in my dads shop building HIGH hp cars with him. Ive built many many turbo, S/c and nitrous cars than I can remember. I know for a fact my car runs great, I dont get any kind of stall condition, I get PERFECT AFR's at cruise, at idle (which is 750~) and under boost. Im pulling fuel under boost and adjusted my timing myself. I also did the knock mod on my SAFC and have logged knock while tuning it on the dyno. .
Ive been a professional mechanic most of my adult life (im in my 30's) and grew up in my dads shop building HIGH hp cars with him. Ive built many many turbo, S/c and nitrous cars than I can remember. I know for a fact my car runs great, I dont get any kind of stall condition, I get PERFECT AFR's at cruise, at idle (which is 750~) and under boost. Im pulling fuel under boost and adjusted my timing myself. I also did the knock mod on my SAFC and have logged knock while tuning it on the dyno. .
id like to know under wot how you are controlling timing on a stock ecu .. toyota ecu's are not open source code ecus so theres no way to alter its timing and fuel curves at wot .. you are relying soley on 20+ yr old ineffective oem knock sensors that at best have maybe alittle timing adjustment based on what it thinks it hears , but even then the amount of timing it pulls then slams back timing which sends a/f all over the place and wreaks havoc on attempting to spool turbo correctly ..if you are adjusting base timing at idle back a couple of degrees via dizzy adjustment , be careful , for mine being a obdII 97 i did use a odbii reader while on dyno once to just to see where timing via the ecu was and i was scared out of my mind when the reality hit me that this thing eventually is going to give me a nice skylight in the bottom of the block if i continue this route
ecu will fight from time to time safc settings , i have tried this route years ago with a map ecu on my car for the hell of it and was the worst exp ive ever had ..
again not trying to argue or insult , but want to make sure the masses DO understand a na-t equipped car can be as potent as a gte equipped singled setup but only with running a gte ecu at min or better yet a full standlone for without full timing and full fueling control without the intervention of some ecu , you are on a prayer
btw perfect a/f at idle and cruise is subjective , but what happens to a/f when stock ge ecu sees something it doesnt like and because theres no lookup maps in its program ( above 1 bar or atmospheric pressure) to do this or that with timing and fueling although you are in open loop at wot and have some sort of control of fuel with the safc if the ecu hasnt pissed a total hissy fit
Last edited by lexforlife; 02-09-13 at 05:21 AM.