SC- 1st Gen (1992-2000)

Paint Job Costs DIY and PRO (moved from plasti-dipping thread)

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Old 07-18-16, 12:45 PM
  #106  
mikef
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Originally Posted by 1WILLY1
with all due respect man they are conning you, unless you are a painter yourself you cannot say you need a gallon of base and a gallon of primer and a gallon of clear,after you thin those your going to have over 5 litres of each and that is WAYYYYY too much, your finish would be like a 1/2 inch thick by the time your done spraying 10 LITRES of material on it. Oh and dont forgot then another 4 litres of primer too . 14 litres all together LOL

The real pro's dont use more material they use much much less because they are much more efficient, few thin coats of base, few nice coats of clear and its done , off to the next one.

Check out the thickness of the finish on a new Lexus, its paper thin they probably use less materials then even i am using since its all done electronically by machines and robots.

I operate a furniture refinishing business , and I can tell you people in my business do the EXACT same thing that body shops do, they lie about material costs,, charge astronomical amounts of money, lie about how long it really takes etc...its a complete joke, body shops are criminals and never to be trusted.

but for the sake of argument lets say your right and you need 1 gallon each of base and clear, thats still not much money.

1 gallon of base here is less then $200, Id say even $150 ish, clear coat around the same $200 or less, then your thinner and hardener and sandpaper etc.... your still only looking at about $500 to $600.

I feel so bad for the poor guy here in Canada that recently made a thread, he paid $11 000 dollars for a little body work and paint job, its sickening, but in the end its his fault completely.

any company that lies should go under i feel
Old 07-18-16, 06:41 PM
  #107  
xxtoobsxx
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the body work and the prep are what you really pay for in a paint job. My buddy hooked me up with mine. I paid about roughly $1,000 just in paint, clear, primer/sealer and misc things here and there. I bought my stuff directly from the supplier. If you use good paint and have ****ty prep and body work it will show. Especially if your doing a multi stage job. If you are using a single stage with an integrated clear then yeah you can get it done SUUUUUUPER cheap. But it wont look as good as a legit job.

I have done both, the cheap one looked good alone. Put next to a car with a sick paint job and you can see the difference easily. But if you prepped the car just right the **** paint will look good, not great or awesome but good.
Old 07-19-16, 09:24 AM
  #108  
Blkexcoupe
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Originally Posted by Biddles
What was the end result *****? Any pics of the finished paint job?
He never finished the car and sold it.
Old 07-19-16, 01:14 PM
  #109  
Biddles
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Originally Posted by Blkexcoupe
He never finished the car and sold it.
LOL @ all the arguing in this thread for nothing. Would have been cool to see the finished product.
Old 07-19-16, 09:24 PM
  #110  
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Bump much? lol. My non-confrontational self died a little reading the first 7 pages of this. Cutting compound, polish, and wax (all by hand) was fine for me, though I imagine those with heavier body/paint damage or SC passion might feel differently.


Interesting and useful info for whatever it's worth, which seems to be about $300 - $5000.
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