Paint Job Costs DIY and PRO (moved from plasti-dipping thread)
02-07-13, 08:33 AM
#61
The body shop I go to for materials sells a thinner for the clear, they only recomend using 5-10% if needed, but I use much more then recomended for reasons I stated earlier.
I realise my technique might not be one tought at school but i can tell you ive learned from experiance, the thicker the clear coat you spray the more orange peeling and flaws you are likely to get, it takes much longer to dry and is in general much less forgiving.
When i thin the clear out and spray very thin coats you literally get next to no orange peeling or flaws, I do need to apply more coats though.
I am not saying I am a pro finisher, I am very open to hearing other peoples techniques and tricks but for now this is the system i use and it works for me.
Also my car is an original finish, I dont think I will be using sealer or primer except on areas where i did body work, I will sand off the clear and get into the original base, but i will do a little more research to see if maybe i should lay sealer over the original base, although i never have before.
I realise my technique might not be one tought at school but i can tell you ive learned from experiance, the thicker the clear coat you spray the more orange peeling and flaws you are likely to get, it takes much longer to dry and is in general much less forgiving.
When i thin the clear out and spray very thin coats you literally get next to no orange peeling or flaws, I do need to apply more coats though.
I am not saying I am a pro finisher, I am very open to hearing other peoples techniques and tricks but for now this is the system i use and it works for me.
Also my car is an original finish, I dont think I will be using sealer or primer except on areas where i did body work, I will sand off the clear and get into the original base, but i will do a little more research to see if maybe i should lay sealer over the original base, although i never have before.
here i put a list together for people doing DYI, also remember this dosent include a DA or an OK gun that can be bought for $200 and DA for $100. It dosent include shipping which is another $70 dollars. This is Cheaper materials i have used to paint my own car, and many other projects their poduct is decent but if i had to do it again i will buy better products, and i already have. When it comes time to change the color of my car i will not be using this product again, but for an average DYier its not a bad start.
http://www.tcpglobal.com/SprayPaintDepot/Cart.aspx
02-07-13, 11:33 AM
#70
if you want bunch of flake use Kustom Shop Metallics, sure its cheap and looks good but good god you will have the flake everywhere. All over you shoes, clothes, hair, floor and anywhere in 150 feet radius. Their metallics have so much flake it settles like dust, when we sprayed the base coat on my car 10 minutes later we took tack cloths and wiped it all down and went out to lunch. When we came back over an hour later we wiped it down again before we sprayed the kandy and there was alof of loose flakes on the base coat. Its also very hard to clean the gun out if you want to use same gun for clear and base. Unless you want a bunch of flake in your clear, you will waste half a gallon of cleaner to clean all the flake out of the gun.
02-07-13, 11:34 AM
#71
I can't say how much I am paying for my materials because if I paint 2 sc's two different colors. Say one red and one white could be 100-300$ price difference. I mean are you adding in mica's pearl so many variables and what the mixing instructions may call for 10 different colors to make that particular red. You just never used a mixing bank before which means you have never painted before which leads me to ask. Why is this thread here you have no idea what your doing. I am I car platinum certified and graduated from wyotechs collision refinishing program so yeah....
I dont know the difference, just trying to make a funny
