Wired my battery backwards (SOLVED)
01-26-13, 09:16 AM
#1
Wired my battery backwards (SOLVED)
So, I'm currently doing a SC400 W58 swap and the other day I just finished putting everything together. When I turned on the car, there wasn't enough juice for the car to turn over and I knew my battery was going to crap so I went to Auto Zone and got a new one. I was too excited to start my car that I didn't check that the battery was opposite polarity. So when it connected it made a big spark and it blew some fuses. Well now I got the right battery and I checked all the fuses and replaced the ones that blew. The problem now is that the cluster lights don't turn on when I put the key in and I can't even start the car. Would anyone know what the problem would be? I'm thinking it's one of the relays but not sure which one.. Also where can I find a 150a fusible link?..
Last edited by nguminh; 01-26-13 at 05:24 PM. Reason: wrong problem
01-26-13, 02:08 PM
#5
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sorry to hear about this man, I do electrical design for a living and deal with clients determining point of failure in their systems so i know first hand the headache this can be.
i usually like to try the simplest things first IF you have checked all the fusable links.
first i would suggest you puck up a volt meter with a millivolt scale they can be had relatively cheap(just saw one for $12 at walmart, you might be able to find cheaper.). and a run of wire maybe 20'
use the long run of wire to connect the ground of your voltmeter to your battery
this tool will help you in a few ways it will tell you if you have power, contunity in the wires, and prolly most importiant for you, you can perform a voltage drop test.. I would strongly recomend you do a little reading on voltage drop if you are not familar with it. you want no more than 500 millivolt drop in any system on your vehicle.
turn on the system you want to check
If you have no voltage theres is a break in that circuit (check the fusable links)
If you do find a drop greater than 500mV before a load in any circuit you have something stealing power from the circuit (follow the circuit path and look for melted wires or burned components where the circut has lost its connection or fused to another circuit)
hopefully someone will be kind enough to link you to a wire diagram, I'm new to the site so there may be one stickied somewhere
good luck
-jec
i usually like to try the simplest things first IF you have checked all the fusable links.
first i would suggest you puck up a volt meter with a millivolt scale they can be had relatively cheap(just saw one for $12 at walmart, you might be able to find cheaper.). and a run of wire maybe 20'
use the long run of wire to connect the ground of your voltmeter to your battery
this tool will help you in a few ways it will tell you if you have power, contunity in the wires, and prolly most importiant for you, you can perform a voltage drop test.. I would strongly recomend you do a little reading on voltage drop if you are not familar with it. you want no more than 500 millivolt drop in any system on your vehicle.
turn on the system you want to check
If you have no voltage theres is a break in that circuit (check the fusable links)
If you do find a drop greater than 500mV before a load in any circuit you have something stealing power from the circuit (follow the circuit path and look for melted wires or burned components where the circut has lost its connection or fused to another circuit)
hopefully someone will be kind enough to link you to a wire diagram, I'm new to the site so there may be one stickied somewhere
good luck
-jec
Last edited by JasonTX; 01-26-13 at 03:19 PM.
01-26-13, 02:58 PM
#6
Keeper of the light
iTrader: (17)
I agree perfectly with that aside of the fact most people only get themselves in worse. A pro knows when to stop and regroup and try a different angle, has plenty of experience and backup knowledge to deal with issues that arise and unexpected problems. Knows where not to put the hot wire and why, and knows why they are specifically looking for bigger than a half a volt drop in the circuit. They won't be able to determine if there is a diode inline dropping the voltage 6 tenths or if they have a bad coil on their relay inline.
It's damn good advice for being correct advice, but it really opens up a lot of worms which is why I don't post super detailed tech. It almost always causes more problems than good. If it can't be done simply, let someone properly able do it. Stick to basic checks.
It's damn good advice for being correct advice, but it really opens up a lot of worms which is why I don't post super detailed tech. It almost always causes more problems than good. If it can't be done simply, let someone properly able do it. Stick to basic checks.
01-26-13, 05:02 PM
#7
this happened to my old honda once and luckily it was only the main fuse that needed to be replaced, also it fried the battery completely. since its a lexus I would like to think they have safety precautions that have protected your major components, ecu, alt etc.....
Your battery is probably gone forsure though.
Good luck.
Your battery is probably gone forsure though.
Good luck.
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01-26-13, 05:28 PM
#8
sorry to hear about this man, I do electrical design for a living and deal with clients determining point of failure in their systems so i know first hand the headache this can be.
i usually like to try the simplest things first IF you have checked all the fusable links.
first i would suggest you puck up a volt meter with a millivolt scale they can be had relatively cheap(just saw one for $12 at walmart, you might be able to find cheaper.). and a run of wire maybe 20'
use the long run of wire to connect the ground of your voltmeter to your battery
this tool will help you in a few ways it will tell you if you have power, contunity in the wires, and prolly most importiant for you, you can perform a voltage drop test.. I would strongly recomend you do a little reading on voltage drop if you are not familar with it. you want no more than 500 millivolt drop in any system on your vehicle.
turn on the system you want to check
If you have no voltage theres is a break in that circuit (check the fusable links)
If you do find a drop greater than 500mV before a load in any circuit you have something stealing power from the circuit (follow the circuit path and look for melted wires or burned components where the circut has lost its connection or fused to another circuit)
hopefully someone will be kind enough to link you to a wire diagram, I'm new to the site so there may be one stickied somewhere
good luck
-jec
i usually like to try the simplest things first IF you have checked all the fusable links.
first i would suggest you puck up a volt meter with a millivolt scale they can be had relatively cheap(just saw one for $12 at walmart, you might be able to find cheaper.). and a run of wire maybe 20'
use the long run of wire to connect the ground of your voltmeter to your battery
this tool will help you in a few ways it will tell you if you have power, contunity in the wires, and prolly most importiant for you, you can perform a voltage drop test.. I would strongly recomend you do a little reading on voltage drop if you are not familar with it. you want no more than 500 millivolt drop in any system on your vehicle.
turn on the system you want to check
If you have no voltage theres is a break in that circuit (check the fusable links)
If you do find a drop greater than 500mV before a load in any circuit you have something stealing power from the circuit (follow the circuit path and look for melted wires or burned components where the circut has lost its connection or fused to another circuit)
hopefully someone will be kind enough to link you to a wire diagram, I'm new to the site so there may be one stickied somewhere
good luck
-jec
I agree perfectly with that aside of the fact most people only get themselves in worse. A pro knows when to stop and regroup and try a different angle, has plenty of experience and backup knowledge to deal with issues that arise and unexpected problems. Knows where not to put the hot wire and why, and knows why they are specifically looking for bigger than a half a volt drop in the circuit. They won't be able to determine if there is a diode inline dropping the voltage 6 tenths or if they have a bad coil on their relay inline.
It's damn good advice for being correct advice, but it really opens up a lot of worms which is why I don't post super detailed tech. It almost always causes more problems than good. If it can't be done simply, let someone properly able do it. Stick to basic checks.
It's damn good advice for being correct advice, but it really opens up a lot of worms which is why I don't post super detailed tech. It almost always causes more problems than good. If it can't be done simply, let someone properly able do it. Stick to basic checks.
this happened to my old honda once and luckily it was only the main fuse that needed to be replaced, also it fried the battery completely. since its a lexus I would like to think they have safety precautions that have protected your major components, ecu, alt etc.....
Your battery is probably gone forsure though.
Good luck.
Your battery is probably gone forsure though.
Good luck.
01-27-13, 10:47 AM
#13
Damn, sorry to hear about your issues. Just some info for ppl buying batteries from AutoZone, they have incorrect information inside their database about our batteries. I bought a battery last summer and they had the vice versa positive/negative info. I finally bought the correct one but it could have been a major issue similar to the OP.
