I've been wanting to do this interior lighting for a long time
#17
Keeper of the light
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More work on the interior tonight. I've been messing with these for years, but since I decided I liked the runner strips up top I am going to finish this project I started in 2007. See if you can figure out what it is The stock cluster face is being replace with a clear plexi unit, then the plexi will be covered in a custom overlay I designed. The one thing I can't get the camera to show is the waterfall effect I designed into it where the colors merge. It's so nice in person where they blend in. These are my "beaters".
Last edited by O. L. T.; 09-10-12 at 07:10 PM.
#19
Keeper of the light
Thread Starter
iTrader: (17)
Wish granted. I am doing the radio now. Just about got the whole car done.
Just trying to decide on a color. Been putting a design together all week and going back and forth on colors. Colors do not burn at the same voltage. if you put say.... a green and white together the green will light and the white won't. The green draws more amperage and more priority over the white in the circuit. When I pick a color I have to set the voltage up then set the frequency to 38hz so the on time of the led's is low. That way I can hit them harder and brighter, but they are only on for a third the time of an led running lower voltage and hotter output. By using the R/C Time Constant you can burn LED's much brighter than their are rated for without killing the gates in the diodes. I've been underclocking the speedometer cluster frequency for years so people can have brighter needles and backlight and lower temperatures on the led gates. That's why people who don't know what the hell they are doing sticking led's in there at full clock speed burn them out sooner (and they usually look like crap anyway just stuck in there). I am clocking the entire car's lighting at 38HZ on high power and 48 hz on medium power and putting a potentiometer in the console to control it all centrally (almost like the dimmer ****, but for the frequency and voltage controller rather than just controlling resistance).
LOL, I just noticed the frequency counter is clearly on 38 hz in the background.
In other words, it's gonna be hawt without being hot. Now I just have to decide on color.
Just trying to decide on a color. Been putting a design together all week and going back and forth on colors. Colors do not burn at the same voltage. if you put say.... a green and white together the green will light and the white won't. The green draws more amperage and more priority over the white in the circuit. When I pick a color I have to set the voltage up then set the frequency to 38hz so the on time of the led's is low. That way I can hit them harder and brighter, but they are only on for a third the time of an led running lower voltage and hotter output. By using the R/C Time Constant you can burn LED's much brighter than their are rated for without killing the gates in the diodes. I've been underclocking the speedometer cluster frequency for years so people can have brighter needles and backlight and lower temperatures on the led gates. That's why people who don't know what the hell they are doing sticking led's in there at full clock speed burn them out sooner (and they usually look like crap anyway just stuck in there). I am clocking the entire car's lighting at 38HZ on high power and 48 hz on medium power and putting a potentiometer in the console to control it all centrally (almost like the dimmer ****, but for the frequency and voltage controller rather than just controlling resistance).
LOL, I just noticed the frequency counter is clearly on 38 hz in the background.
In other words, it's gonna be hawt without being hot. Now I just have to decide on color.
Last edited by O. L. T.; 10-14-12 at 08:25 PM.
#21
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