turbodremz

iTrader: (18)

could have bought ready to spray flat black paint and a spray gun, and just done the whole car. Or a single stage paint, a half way decent HPLV spray gun, and a compressor. I know the links arent the best source for paint, but neither is Walmart.

One_jZ_SC3

iTrader: (2)

I didnt know what to think when I first saw the pics, the front looks kinda off to me as well but im interested to see the final pics....GL!!

1jzchris

looks good so far..........want to see the finish product

ihiryu

iTrader: (7)

All seriousness here, but have you ever looked into house paint? I mean it's probably easier and cheaper, especially if you don't think it's your final paint job.

keskipper

iTrader: (4)

Thanks for the comments everyone...like it, or don't like it, it certainly looks much better, imo (and that's all that really counts)... Got about 90% completed today, ran out of daylight. Will finish tomorrow. Here are a few pics as of tonight...

97-SC300

iTrader: (17)

Looks like you put some shine back into it. It looked flat in the first set of pics.

keskipper

iTrader: (4)

It wasn't wet sanded or waxed at the time...did wet sanding, rubbing compound, scratch doctor, and meguiars today...

97-SC300

iTrader: (17)

Usually it is not advisable to wax, seal, or apply any type of LSP product onto aftermarket paint for a month after the paintjob is done. Even if it was properly baked in a booth, it is not fully cured for the first month.

keskipper

iTrader: (4)

I did not know that...ty for the info. Is there anything I can do about that now, or just forget about it? What are the adverse effects?

97-SC300

iTrader: (17)

Well, the reason you shouldn't practice it is because a wax or paint sealant leaves behind an extra layer on top of the clearcoat. Even though this layer is extremely thin (most waxes or sealants probably don't even add a micron of thickness), the fact is, fresh aftermarket paint needs time to outgas, and putting on any type of extra layer on top of the paint prevents that or at best slows it down.

If you don't have a dedicated product to strip the wax, you can always use dish soap and wash the car as you would normally. Don't do it in the sun because it will leave behind water spots. I've used dish soap plenty of times on my own cars to get the body as clean as possible before new wax application. Works everytime. Most would reccoment Dawn dish soap, but I've used various brands and they all worked fine. To check that the wax is stripped, just spray or mist some water onto the car and check that there is no beading. No beading=no wax.

Good luck.

1JZPWRD

iTrader: (59)

The above statement is so true. I think the results you were after was achieved, thats all that matters. I think you ought to do the whole car. I am sure you will once you get more sun and daylight out.

1WILLY1

iTrader: (9)

House paint? Are you kidding me ?

I would just leave it, whats dont is done and im sure this isnt going to be a permanent paint job.

I think it turned out well considering your probably on a budget and this is your first time trying it.

The clear coat on your car was destroyed and something needed to be done.

This can be a good temporary fix until you decide to get the whole care done.

keskipper

iTrader: (4)

That's exactly my thought process. And for $140 (and my time), I don't have to see the ugly, dull, failing clear coat!!

greens14

iTrader: (28)

I know its too late to mention but... you know any store that sells automotive paint could've mixed the original color into an aerosol can to make it easier to match. I thought you were doing the whole car black!

JJ823

I like the teal mist I have the same color. I agree with *****, much better then how she was.