99SC42

iTrader: (44)

This is the pair of TRD mounts for your engine. These are made of MUCH harder rubber (urethane) than your stock mounts and are highly recommended to anyone with high mileage and/or any Supra with a single turbo upgrade.

The engine mounts are made for 1993-96 Supra Twin Turbos. However, if you have a 1997-98 Supra Twin Turbo, you can still use these, but it requires purchase of the 1993-96 brackets. The "Toyota Engine Mount Brackets for 1997-98 Supra", part # To 1231146090.

99SC42

iTrader: (44)

97-98 MK4 uses the same brackets with the SCs atleast up to 98 , and they both use the short mounts and longer brackets.

93.5-96 uses the longer mounts with the shorter brackets, so for example you have your the TRD mounts and they are exactly the same height as the 93.5-96 na or TT mounts.they just have different material on the inside .So for you to use those mounts you will need MK4 supra 93.5-96 motor mount brackets. Your SC brackets will not work .

1JZPWRD

iTrader: (59)

Quik is the man on here for parts and threads. Wish I had some help on my thread. Lol. Nice build, been there and done that. Subscribed.

suprus

OKay I got ya. Thanks for clarifying. Hopefully I can find a used pair on supraforums or something so that I dont have to pay dealer prices..

stockhatch

iTrader: (12)

It is just notorious for causing thrust bearing failure. There was another thread over on SF just yesterday of another crankwalked Supra running a heavy ACT PP. Some people get away with running it, but not everyone is so lucky.

99SC42

iTrader: (44)

What do you need help on? just ask and you should receive


I would just put a WTB thread there and you will get a set in no time.


About the clutch like "Stockhatch" said do not use a HD.As for Pressure Plate i would use the stock PP and a full disc works fine or if you are going for 400rwhp+ just get a feramic disc , use your stock flywheel, and stock PP and should be fine.
Please do not use LWF they are junk .
GL

lmfod

6 puck clutches are evil...

suprus

So what do you think I should run instead? I mean I was planning on using an act heavy duty pp. my goals are 450-500 to the ground. Minimal track use. driven a couple days a week, not daily

suprus

Okay, so you think the stock pressure plate will hold up to 5? and a full face disk should be okay? This is great let me know how your setups have worked before, like I said this is my first build so I have no physical experience with any of these clutches.

99SC42

iTrader: (44)

I had ACT and it held the power but i kept breaking the PP , i broke 3 ACT PP where 92) of them were covered under warranty.The same clutch will promote a crankwalk .
Overall i like ACT because they stand behind there products.

I have an RPS clutch now it's a little too much for me, I am going with a stock PP it will hold 700rwhp no problem with the right combination ( disc and flywheel)

I know alot of people on SF that had crankwalk with ACT and RPS clutches lol. So yeah the stock PP with the Feramic will do the job as long as you don't take it to the track and beat on it you will be fine .

suprus

Ya I am really not trying to crankwalk this motor, I really dont have the money to replace the bottom end if things get screwed up haha. I just had no idea that the stock r154 pp could hold that kind of power or I never would have considered going with an act or rps pp.

What about doing marlin crawler parts in the r154? have you used any of those parts or had your tranny rebuilt before? Is it worth spending the cash on while the tranny is still out of the car?

stockhatch

iTrader: (12)

I am running the ACT "HD" PP with 6 puck sprung disk and I hate it. The W58 version of the "HD" PP is not that bad regarding actual pedal force, but the 6 puck disk chatters like a ****. To be safe, I still disabled the neutral start switch and never ride the clutch at lights or intersections.

I will run a full face disk next time. I MAY run the HD PP again, but not an "Xtreme". The R154 stock PP is stronger than the W58 and will hold more power than its W58 counterpart. If I had an R154, I would run a stock PP and a full faced Feramic street disk.

sclee00

inspiring build, hope i can get mine started in jan GL with the build very informative

account2x

iTrader: (5)

return the trd mounts and buy (regular) 98 supra mounts from the dealership.

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...-92-sc300.html
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...or-mounts.html

suprus

Merry Christmas everybody! I hope Santa brought you Borg Warner turbos, Volk Wheels, and Full-Race turbo manifolds.

ANYWAY, I had a little time to wrench on the car and made a little bit more progress from last week. I finished disassembling the rest of the turbo components and the water pump pipe and also removed the valve covers in order to strip the old paint and prepare for new paint and new seals. But I am most excited about the paint I found last week that I am going to use for the valve covers as well as the turbo piping etc. Its actually a bbq paint and goes on flat but it is going to look so sweet with a gloss on it. So heres some pics:

Here's the water pump inlet pipe before I stripped it



And here's the valve covers. They were pretty corroded from that salty Japanese air and were in much need of some fresh sanding and paint.





I was able to take a peek at the cams and stuff, which looked pretty grimey in my opinion. What do you guys think from your experience? How does my cams compare to what you guys have seen? And also what have you guys done to safely clean this whole area without dropping anything down in there or screwing everything up? The spark plug valleys also?






Next I started stripping all the turbo piping, water inlet, and valve covers:





Then I layed down a few coats of high temp primer for everything and even did some wet sanding to smooth everything out real nice.





Last I tested out the bbq paint on one of the pipes, and I absolutely loved it. If you remember the last pics I posted, I was using that lighter grey paint that looked okay, but was not what I had envisioned in my head. The new paint is spot on to what I had imagined I wanted it to look like:





And here are some pics of the paint with one layer of clear coat on it. I should have waited until I have all the clear coats on it and they are completely done to post the pics, but I was pretty excited so I had to post them and show everyone. Not everyone may like it, but to me its perfect.






So next I need to finish painting the rest of the piping and valve covers, and wait for the new seals to come in. I was going to ask you guys though, do you know where I can find all of the stock1jz couplers and rubber hoses and connectors for the stock twins? Some of them look like high pressure hoses and have 90 degree bends and stuff and they are all dry rotted and cracking. Is that going to be difficult to source? ANd last, do you guys think I should just replace the cam seals as well as the valve cover seal while I have the covers off or do you think they will be good? Ive never changed those before so im a little worried about getting messing up the timing and stuff, so I could use a little help/advice with that stuff.

Well thats about it for now, I know it wasnt much of an update so I will post again soon. Have a safe holidays everyone!