The Unofficial NA-T Roll Call Thread - 2JZ's & 1UZ's Are Welcomed!
07-16-11, 12:21 PM
#1
Driver
Thread Starter
The Unofficial NA-T Roll Call Thread - 2JZ's & 1UZ's Are Welcomed!
Hey Club Lexus,
It seems as though NA-T has been getting a bit more popular over the past few years and is starting to become a lot more common. Since ClubNA-T is more of an archive now than a forum... here's the rundown!
For those of you who have turbo'd your naturally aspirated engine, whether it be a 1UZ or a 2JZ, please check in and post.
I'm hoping this will turn out to be a good reference for future NA-T owners, such as myself, allowing them to figure out costs, whether it's safe for them to turbo their motor, how reliable NA-T really is, etc.
Here's an example...
Model: SC300
Miles When Turbo'd: 130,000
Mileage Now: 150,000
Reliability: 8 (On a scale of 1-10, ten being the MOST reliable)
Total Cost: $ 3,500
D.I.Y: Yes
Ease of Project: 5 (On a scale of 1-10, 10 being the most difficult)
-OR-
D.I.Y: No
Who Did The Work: SomeRandomShop, located in El Monte, California
-Optional- Additional Commentary
[write about the things you would have done differently, your build sheet, regrets, thoughts, or anything you would like to share with the community]
Thanks guys!
It seems as though NA-T has been getting a bit more popular over the past few years and is starting to become a lot more common. Since ClubNA-T is more of an archive now than a forum... here's the rundown!
For those of you who have turbo'd your naturally aspirated engine, whether it be a 1UZ or a 2JZ, please check in and post.
I'm hoping this will turn out to be a good reference for future NA-T owners, such as myself, allowing them to figure out costs, whether it's safe for them to turbo their motor, how reliable NA-T really is, etc.
Here's an example...
Model: SC300
Miles When Turbo'd: 130,000
Mileage Now: 150,000
Reliability: 8 (On a scale of 1-10, ten being the MOST reliable)
Total Cost: $ 3,500
D.I.Y: Yes
Ease of Project: 5 (On a scale of 1-10, 10 being the most difficult)
-OR-
D.I.Y: No
Who Did The Work: SomeRandomShop, located in El Monte, California
-Optional- Additional Commentary
[write about the things you would have done differently, your build sheet, regrets, thoughts, or anything you would like to share with the community]
Thanks guys!
07-16-11, 02:27 PM
#2
Model: 1995 SC300 auto
Miles When Turbo'd: 135,000
Mileage Now: 145,000
Reliability: to give it a number is a misnomer... my car starts and runs every time, and has been uber reliable this whole time. I dont really worry about anything going out on it or stranding me anywhere, not to say I dont think the tranny would burn up, but they are easy to come by and i have the know how to put it in..
Total Cost: less than 2k... just over 2k if you count the wheels, brakes, tint and electronics.
D.I.Y: Yes
Ease of Project: More time consuming and fab heavy than anything. It wasnt hard in the slightest. I just only had a few hours a day here and there to mess with it.
Next time... lol. There will be no next time. I love my car, but i will buy a TT supra before i NA-T another one... I want the ease of "basic bolt-ons". I encourage anyone to do it if they want a turbo, I just wont do it again.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc-...the-works.html
Miles When Turbo'd: 135,000
Mileage Now: 145,000
Reliability: to give it a number is a misnomer... my car starts and runs every time, and has been uber reliable this whole time. I dont really worry about anything going out on it or stranding me anywhere, not to say I dont think the tranny would burn up, but they are easy to come by and i have the know how to put it in..
Total Cost: less than 2k... just over 2k if you count the wheels, brakes, tint and electronics.
D.I.Y: Yes
Ease of Project: More time consuming and fab heavy than anything. It wasnt hard in the slightest. I just only had a few hours a day here and there to mess with it.
Next time... lol. There will be no next time. I love my car, but i will buy a TT supra before i NA-T another one... I want the ease of "basic bolt-ons". I encourage anyone to do it if they want a turbo, I just wont do it again.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc-...the-works.html
07-16-11, 09:06 PM
#3
Model: '96
Turbo'd @: 170k miles
Now: 180k miles
Reliability: 8 (Its never stranded me but usually takes more than one try to start... I blame this on MAP-ECU, If i had the money I'd go standalone)
D.I.Y.: Yes
Ease of install: 5; Tapping the block was the worst part and it wasnt hard, just stressfull.
Na-t is cool but would be better with full standalone as opposed to a Piggyback.
Turbo'd @: 170k miles
Now: 180k miles
Reliability: 8 (Its never stranded me but usually takes more than one try to start... I blame this on MAP-ECU, If i had the money I'd go standalone)
D.I.Y.: Yes
Ease of install: 5; Tapping the block was the worst part and it wasnt hard, just stressfull.
Na-t is cool but would be better with full standalone as opposed to a Piggyback.
07-17-11, 01:31 AM
#5
Driver
Thread Starter
If you followed his build thread, he had a lot of issues with little things not fitting right (which is completely understandable since the XS-Power kit is pretty inexpensive)... so he had to fabricate a thing or two, here and there.
Perhaps it's one of those things that are such a hassle, you only want to do it once. However, it's worth doing the first time because going NA-T is probably the cheapest way to make some good power.
Perhaps it's one of those things that are such a hassle, you only want to do it once. However, it's worth doing the first time because going NA-T is probably the cheapest way to make some good power.
07-17-11, 06:03 AM
#6
Model: SC300
Miles When Turbo'd: 140,000
Mileage Now: 189,000 (2nd motor)
Reliability: 9 (It always gets me home and anything that has gone wrong was my own fault - popped couplers, blown head gasket, oil leaks)
Total Cost: $ 2,500ish?
D.I.Y: Yes
Ease of Project: 5 (On a scale of 1-10, 10 being the most difficult)
If I were to do it again, I'd go GTE. There are a lot of hidden NA-T costs and unless you fork out the cash for stand alone, the driveability is buggy. I'm speaking from an AFC Neo perspective, other piggys can share their experience.
A lot of people rag on the XSPower kit, but for the price, it is the way to go. My "cheap a$$ china" turbo lasted 40,000 miles and would have gone longer if I hadn't melted the turbine running too lean, run it for several thousand miles on a blown head gasket with water in the oil, and allowed it to ingest stuff when my PVC hose came off and I didn't know. In addition it only costs like $40 to rebuild it if it starts smoking or has a lot of play.
Miles When Turbo'd: 140,000
Mileage Now: 189,000 (2nd motor)
Reliability: 9 (It always gets me home and anything that has gone wrong was my own fault - popped couplers, blown head gasket, oil leaks)
Total Cost: $ 2,500ish?
D.I.Y: Yes
Ease of Project: 5 (On a scale of 1-10, 10 being the most difficult)
If I were to do it again, I'd go GTE. There are a lot of hidden NA-T costs and unless you fork out the cash for stand alone, the driveability is buggy. I'm speaking from an AFC Neo perspective, other piggys can share their experience.
A lot of people rag on the XSPower kit, but for the price, it is the way to go. My "cheap a$$ china" turbo lasted 40,000 miles and would have gone longer if I hadn't melted the turbine running too lean, run it for several thousand miles on a blown head gasket with water in the oil, and allowed it to ingest stuff when my PVC hose came off and I didn't know. In addition it only costs like $40 to rebuild it if it starts smoking or has a lot of play.
07-17-11, 06:12 AM
#7
gte & na-t
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If you followed his build thread, he had a lot of issues with little things not fitting right (which is completely understandable since the XS-Power kit is pretty inexpensive)... so he had to fabricate a thing or two, here and there.
Perhaps it's one of those things that are such a hassle, you only want to do it once. However, it's worth doing the first time because going NA-T is probably the cheapest way to make some good power.
Perhaps it's one of those things that are such a hassle, you only want to do it once. However, it's worth doing the first time because going NA-T is probably the cheapest way to make some good power.
Do you know how alot of nat guys end up going gte?
And thats why alot of people hate nat because they halfass it , car doesnt always start car runs funky sometimes.
Better Ecu is the key, I dont think I will ever go gte again unless I get a free swap.
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07-17-11, 08:42 AM
#8
by saying AEM... i actually just mean standalone... id probably go big
Last edited by lookEVO; 07-17-11 at 09:03 AM.
07-17-11, 08:54 AM
#9
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great thread. good info. keep it up guys
my car is currently in the shop getting the loose ends tied up for going na-t with things being welded and the ecu being tuned. just from the few comments here im glad i chose to go standalone as most of the problems sound piggyback related.
my car is currently in the shop getting the loose ends tied up for going na-t with things being welded and the ecu being tuned. just from the few comments here im glad i chose to go standalone as most of the problems sound piggyback related.
07-17-11, 05:31 PM
#12
Exactly it doesnt make any sense
You get whay you pay for we all know that ,i sold my gte to go naT .people likes to do thing the cheaper way.
Do you know how alot of nat guys end up going gte?
And thats why alot of people hate nat because they halfass it , car doesnt always start car runs funky sometimes.
Better Ecu is the key, I dont think I will ever go gte again unless I get a free swap.
You get whay you pay for we all know that ,i sold my gte to go naT .people likes to do thing the cheaper way.
Do you know how alot of nat guys end up going gte?
And thats why alot of people hate nat because they halfass it , car doesnt always start car runs funky sometimes.
Better Ecu is the key, I dont think I will ever go gte again unless I get a free swap.
HOLY **** man !!!! Clarity please. I thought you went 2jz gte. It made no sense to me why someone would someone sell a 2jz-gte to go na-t. Chaser 1JZ swap which is THE WORST possible swap to make.
07-17-11, 08:01 PM
#13
great thread. good info. keep it up guys
my car is currently in the shop getting the loose ends tied up for going na-t with things being welded and the ecu being tuned. just from the few comments here im glad i chose to go standalone as most of the problems sound piggyback related.
my car is currently in the shop getting the loose ends tied up for going na-t with things being welded and the ecu being tuned. just from the few comments here im glad i chose to go standalone as most of the problems sound piggyback related.
My plans for when I graduate is full standalone and 6spd swap, after this is done theres not really any limitations vs. a TT 6spd swap
07-17-11, 08:35 PM
#14
Driver
Thread Starter
If I recall correctly, hasn't someone figured out a way to use the JDM Aristo TT Ecu in replacement of the 2JZ-GE ECU?
It was suppose to work great up till around 400hp.
It was suppose to work great up till around 400hp.
07-18-11, 05:51 AM
#15
let me jump in here for a minute
with the gte inventory drying up at the source in japan , you are picking from the bottom of the barrell ( in manner of speaking).. higher milage engines and alot full of sludge etc etc ..
also i dont care for the low compression of the gte setup at 8:5:1 .. running that compression is 15 yr old technology only because toyota wanted to play it safe in case people put 87/89 octane in instead of 92/93.. it would still be able based on toyotas programming of its ecu with knock map to pull enough timing at stock boost to prevent engine damage..
in todays time i personally would not go any lower than say 9:2:1 my goal is doing close to 10:0:1 setup .. at present im at around 9:5:1 give or take ..
makes driving in vac very peppy and allows you to make power with less boost meaning less wear and tear on engine..i did 592 @only 19psi on 93 octance on conservative rich tune.let me see any gte on a pte 67mm turbo make that at only 19 psi without meth / race gas or e85..
the only key ingredient on na-t is ecu .. must go standalone and get a quality turbo manifold like boostlogic etc ,but hey even if doing gte to go beyond 550ish standalone should be used to tune safely ( yeah i know about people using safc ,vpc ,map ecu) but the cars never really run right with those .. stock ecu always fighting and changing things , not for me
thats my take , and for me will always remain na-t to the bone btw ffim is not essential for prior to using one i made 561 on stock intake and 2.5 mm piping..my car is going on 4 yrs this october being boosted and its the same stock 14 yr old block that came with car in 1997...
with the gte inventory drying up at the source in japan , you are picking from the bottom of the barrell ( in manner of speaking).. higher milage engines and alot full of sludge etc etc ..
also i dont care for the low compression of the gte setup at 8:5:1 .. running that compression is 15 yr old technology only because toyota wanted to play it safe in case people put 87/89 octane in instead of 92/93.. it would still be able based on toyotas programming of its ecu with knock map to pull enough timing at stock boost to prevent engine damage..
in todays time i personally would not go any lower than say 9:2:1 my goal is doing close to 10:0:1 setup .. at present im at around 9:5:1 give or take ..
makes driving in vac very peppy and allows you to make power with less boost meaning less wear and tear on engine..i did 592 @only 19psi on 93 octance on conservative rich tune.let me see any gte on a pte 67mm turbo make that at only 19 psi without meth / race gas or e85..
the only key ingredient on na-t is ecu .. must go standalone and get a quality turbo manifold like boostlogic etc ,but hey even if doing gte to go beyond 550ish standalone should be used to tune safely ( yeah i know about people using safc ,vpc ,map ecu) but the cars never really run right with those .. stock ecu always fighting and changing things , not for me
thats my take , and for me will always remain na-t to the bone btw ffim is not essential for prior to using one i made 561 on stock intake and 2.5 mm piping..my car is going on 4 yrs this october being boosted and its the same stock 14 yr old block that came with car in 1997...