SC300 Puzzling Window Issue!
05-13-11, 02:51 PM
#1
SC300 Puzzling Window Issue!
Hey guys,
So I've had this WEIRD window problem going on for a few weeks now. Basically my passenger side window is not dead and will not go down. Both the driver side switch and the passenger side switch are just DEAD. It first started out that the driver side became slugging to lower the window and eventually the switch died out so I was forced to only use the passenger side switch. Now the passenger side switch is dead.
Things to note:
1. Motor is NOT dead...had a body shop check it and they said with their external switch they connected to it, it was working fine.
2. I replaced the passenger side window button unit but it wouldn't go down still!
3. Is the driver side master window switch unit the problem? (I wanna say no to this because if the driver side acts as the gateway master switch to process the signal from the passenger side then that wouldnt make sense because my the driver side switch died first while the passenger worked for a while on its own?....is that true???
4. I dont wanna just keep replacing switches left and right for no reason.....what can I do to pinpoint the issue?
5. THANKS for the help!
So I've had this WEIRD window problem going on for a few weeks now. Basically my passenger side window is not dead and will not go down. Both the driver side switch and the passenger side switch are just DEAD. It first started out that the driver side became slugging to lower the window and eventually the switch died out so I was forced to only use the passenger side switch. Now the passenger side switch is dead.
Things to note:
1. Motor is NOT dead...had a body shop check it and they said with their external switch they connected to it, it was working fine.
2. I replaced the passenger side window button unit but it wouldn't go down still!
3. Is the driver side master window switch unit the problem? (I wanna say no to this because if the driver side acts as the gateway master switch to process the signal from the passenger side then that wouldnt make sense because my the driver side switch died first while the passenger worked for a while on its own?....is that true???
4. I dont wanna just keep replacing switches left and right for no reason.....what can I do to pinpoint the issue?
5. THANKS for the help!
I think I was unclear in my first post...a body shop tested the window by taking apart the door panel and hooking up a switch to the motor. The window was going up and down PERFECTLY. So the issue is the signal from the switches (both driver and passenger) are not functioning. I have bought a new passenger side switch but not driver side...yet.
Last edited by Mortal300; 05-13-11 at 07:14 PM.
05-13-11, 03:38 PM
#2
Lead Lap
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: texas
Posts: 474
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
ayy bro i know what is wrong. its hard to get help with questions that have been discussed in the past cl dont like to repeat themselves much. anyhow your window regulator is dead. it is common in the sc. the regulator drives your window up and down by using a cable. sadly the cables connects to your window by a little piece of white plastic. the plastic just like everything else in the car is brittle after 14 years. so the stud on the cable brakes through the plastic. so that it is no longer connected to the window. and the worst part is you should buy a new regulator for 250 bucks because used is just gonna brake again. sucks i know i have to do both of mine right now. good luck bro might as well do the other one too because ot wont be long before it snaps too.
05-13-11, 07:13 PM
#3
ayy bro i know what is wrong. its hard to get help with questions that have been discussed in the past cl dont like to repeat themselves much. anyhow your window regulator is dead. it is common in the sc. the regulator drives your window up and down by using a cable. sadly the cables connects to your window by a little piece of white plastic. the plastic just like everything else in the car is brittle after 14 years. so the stud on the cable brakes through the plastic. so that it is no longer connected to the window. and the worst part is you should buy a new regulator for 250 bucks because used is just gonna brake again. sucks i know i have to do both of mine right now. good luck bro might as well do the other one too because ot wont be long before it snaps too.
I think I was unclear in my first post...a body shop tested the window by taking apart the door panel and hooking up a switch to the motor. The window was going up and down PERFECTLY. So the issue is the signal from the switches (both driver and passenger) are not functioning. I have bought a new passenger side switch but not driver side...yet.
05-13-11, 07:23 PM
#4
Lead Lap
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: texas
Posts: 474
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
oh well yeah i misunderstood. my bad. it is an sc wouldn't surprise me to find out there is an ecu for the windows dont know though and im assuming you checked all your fuses. i am stumped as well. put a hamster in each door with a wheel hooked up to the regulators and shoot them up with roids every day thats a secret mod dont tell anybody.
dont know though and im assuming you checked all your fuses. i am stumped as well. put a hamster in each door with a wheel hooked up to the regulators and shoot them up with roids every day thats a secret mod dont tell anybody.
05-13-11, 07:28 PM
#5
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: ca
Posts: 1,574
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I know you don't want to hear it, but these window issues have been covered ad nauseum. If you search a bit you WILL find advice about checking the wiring in the door jambs and also info on the circuit operation, ie. that the ground path to both the master window and passenger window is routed through the master switch. G/L
05-13-11, 07:32 PM
#6
Lead Lap
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: texas
Posts: 474
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
apparently you can check the switch with a multi meter by setting it to ohms on the 200 ohms scale measure between the common and each terminal while pressing the button the resistance vshould be less then 1 ohm. any more and the switch has contact problems. you could get some deoxidizer spray and clean the terminals. if that fails the switch is bad. also take the drivers panel off and make sure the wires are not cut or torn. yeah what he said ground would be my guess too or bad contacts.
ground would be my guess too or bad contacts.
Last edited by bleedspeed; 05-13-11 at 07:35 PM.
