Tilt steering repair
07-15-14, 01:58 PM
#377
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Try this. It will pull up most everything you need.
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from...+gear&_sacat=0
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from...+gear&_sacat=0
11-01-14, 01:22 PM
#381
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All,
Great thread and very good to know about the gear drive...will try to do the one on my 92 SC400...grinds and is stuck all the way up.
Is its CORRECT to assume the LS400 and SC400 tilt mechanisms are essentially the interchangeable?
ie: gear on the E-BAY listed for the LS400 will fit the SC400?
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from...+gear&_sacat=0
Seems reasonable...but that doesn't make it so!
Looked but could not find that in this thread.
Thanks Pete
Great thread and very good to know about the gear drive...will try to do the one on my 92 SC400...grinds and is stuck all the way up.
Is its CORRECT to assume the LS400 and SC400 tilt mechanisms are essentially the interchangeable?
ie: gear on the E-BAY listed for the LS400 will fit the SC400?
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from...+gear&_sacat=0
Seems reasonable...but that doesn't make it so!
Looked but could not find that in this thread.
Thanks Pete
11-01-14, 01:27 PM
#382
I wondered the same thing. I vaguely recall seeing something that said they're different sizes, but I'm like 5% sure of that... (Edit: I went back and did a quick eBay search and see part #CC18 listed for both, so they probably are interchangeable.) At any rate, you'll most likely be able to re-use your original gear by just flipping it around so the worn side of the teeth are out of harm's way.
11-02-14, 11:06 AM
#383
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T2D2,
The thought that the parts are the "same".. well, ALMOST!...but "different"!!!! . Has left me lying on my back under a car on a cold Saturday night cursing like crazy and p--s-d as the part won't fit and the store is closed weekends...well 20 years ago I guess.
OK....Flipping the gear to the good teeth AND using washers to shim out the slop that lets the gear "wander" away from full engagement ought to do it (with out buying a new gear).
Will give it a try today.
Thanks T2Dt and all the rest of you folks for the great ideas in this thread...!
Pete
The thought that the parts are the "same".. well, ALMOST!...but "different"!!!! . Has left me lying on my back under a car on a cold Saturday night cursing like crazy and p--s-d as the part won't fit and the store is closed weekends...well 20 years ago I guess.
OK....Flipping the gear to the good teeth AND using washers to shim out the slop that lets the gear "wander" away from full engagement ought to do it (with out buying a new gear).
Will give it a try today.
Thanks T2Dt and all the rest of you folks for the great ideas in this thread...!
Pete
11-02-14, 02:23 PM
#384
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HELP how to hold the gear to get the NUT off?
OK,
Finally figured out there are THREE screws...on as someone mentioned behind the steering wheel....turn the wheel right to about 5:00 o'clock and you can see it, No need to destroy the plastic upper/lower shell.
the 3 gear box cover screws are obvious...but you need to loosen the bracket that supports the assembly...I just loosened the bolt underneath and it rotated out of the way.
---------OK BIG PROBLEM...how do you break loose the NUT that holds the gear on ???
Started to put torque on it and the stripped gear just ratchets along the worm drive gear...need to jam the gear in place to break the holding nut loose...? Going back out to stare at it again and try to hold the gear and still get enough torque on the nut to get it to POP loose...
******GOT the nut LOOSE...! VISE-GRIP pliers on the washer worked...rotated the metal clip all the way out and then got the vise-grips on at an angle and it broke loose with a socket wrench...
Thanks Pete
Finally figured out there are THREE screws...on as someone mentioned behind the steering wheel....turn the wheel right to about 5:00 o'clock and you can see it, No need to destroy the plastic upper/lower shell.
the 3 gear box cover screws are obvious...but you need to loosen the bracket that supports the assembly...I just loosened the bolt underneath and it rotated out of the way.
---------OK BIG PROBLEM...how do you break loose the NUT that holds the gear on ???
Started to put torque on it and the stripped gear just ratchets along the worm drive gear...need to jam the gear in place to break the holding nut loose...? Going back out to stare at it again and try to hold the gear and still get enough torque on the nut to get it to POP loose...
******GOT the nut LOOSE...! VISE-GRIP pliers on the washer worked...rotated the metal clip all the way out and then got the vise-grips on at an angle and it broke loose with a socket wrench...
Thanks Pete
Last edited by ifr2lax; 11-02-14 at 02:34 PM. Reason: solved the problem
11-02-14, 05:31 PM
#385
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Success...!
All,
With the help of this thread a success...!
Used TWO RUBBER HOSE washers behind the gear, nothing to the front. Spaced the gear to the center of the worm drive. They were thick enough to put the gear in light compression as the nut/washer were snugged down..
In a pinch consider using a layer or two corrugated cardboard for a spacer...cut to the size of the cavity. If the outer layer of cardboard was cut from a box cover with a "shiny label", Would be slippery and not absorb that much grease. Two layers may be about same thickness as 2 hose washers. If the gear is spaced out. would not think it matters what is spacing it.
Best tip I read.....STEERING COLUMN COVERS have THREE SCREWS ! Turn the steering wheel to the right "5 o'clock" to see the hidden screw...otherwise totally out of sight!.
To get the main drive nut/washer I used VISE-GRIPS tol hold the WASHER. Socket wrench went between the jaws. Now you can get torque on the nut and not ruin more nylon gear teeth as it skips past the worm.
Gear comes off with patience...used two dental tools to wiggle it from either side...paper clips with 90 bends would work. Took ~10 minutes jiggling...kept accidentally pushing the gear back in.
My gear teeth were ONLY worn on the outer edge. Gear had slipped all the way back, the worm drive could only engage outer teeth. Bet most gears are only worn on one edge and still good if centered on the worm drive.
Used white lithium grease on the gear and worm, should be FINE.
Worst case, new gear on E-bay ~$20. Just have to wait for it to be delivered..
thanks again, Pete
With the help of this thread a success...!
Used TWO RUBBER HOSE washers behind the gear, nothing to the front. Spaced the gear to the center of the worm drive. They were thick enough to put the gear in light compression as the nut/washer were snugged down..
In a pinch consider using a layer or two corrugated cardboard for a spacer...cut to the size of the cavity. If the outer layer of cardboard was cut from a box cover with a "shiny label", Would be slippery and not absorb that much grease. Two layers may be about same thickness as 2 hose washers. If the gear is spaced out. would not think it matters what is spacing it.
Best tip I read.....STEERING COLUMN COVERS have THREE SCREWS ! Turn the steering wheel to the right "5 o'clock" to see the hidden screw...otherwise totally out of sight!.
To get the main drive nut/washer I used VISE-GRIPS tol hold the WASHER. Socket wrench went between the jaws. Now you can get torque on the nut and not ruin more nylon gear teeth as it skips past the worm.
Gear comes off with patience...used two dental tools to wiggle it from either side...paper clips with 90 bends would work. Took ~10 minutes jiggling...kept accidentally pushing the gear back in.
My gear teeth were ONLY worn on the outer edge. Gear had slipped all the way back, the worm drive could only engage outer teeth. Bet most gears are only worn on one edge and still good if centered on the worm drive.
Used white lithium grease on the gear and worm, should be FINE.
Worst case, new gear on E-bay ~$20. Just have to wait for it to be delivered..
thanks again, Pete
