This guide is for use of factory 2JZGTE ecu's on NA-T with coil on plug conversion.
I made some diagrams to help people understand whats needed for the TT ecu mod.
This thread shows wiring for vvti coilpacks, which are newer generation coils found on the 1jzgte vvti, 2jzge vvti and 2jzgte vvti.
The bonus is that these coils will fit under the stock 2jzge intake manifold without modification and they are excellent coils.
*Edit* Just recently figured out how to do this mod without the coilpacks and keeping the stock distributor and coil.
This cuts down on quite a bit of wiring and you can still upgrade to coilpacks whenever you want.
See post 4 for that, I am going to leave post 1 with the coilpack version of the mod since its the complete mod.
This thread has grown rather large with a lot of info spread out on different pages, so try using a google search + tt ecu mod to try and find what you are looking for. If you cannot find it or have a old/new question, just post it at the end of the thread as its just an ongoing discussion and tech help at this point, its alright even if its been asked before it can be a little challenging the first time you do the mod.
So, Onto the good stuff. From here you must make a choice that will affect the parts you need to perform the mod.
There are 2 choices.. Choose your destiny... USDM 2JZGTE ECU or JDM 2JZGTE ECU
simple right..? not really but majority should just go ahead and use the JDM ecu which is the proven setup and works with most common na-t setups.
all 2jzge and 2jzgte non-vvti have the same ecu connector so that is the starting point for this mod, we can plug in several different ecu's.
For 2JZ-GE's that are 92-95, I recommend using a JDM ecu 100%. its map sensor based and takes the least amount of messing with to get it to run well.
For 2JZ-GE's that are 96+ non vvti, I still recommend using the JDM ecu as its map sesnor based and runs the best out of the box. The wiring is a little different you must take power and ground from the tps as the 96+ maf (12v) is different than the 92-95 maf (5v).
- IF you want to try and have an obd2 compliant ecu then there is sort of an advantage to using the USDM ecu as you can keep odb2 working. The wiring is a little different we don't reuse the maf wires for the map so see post 4 for that. *DISCLAIMER* setting up the US GTE ecu's with a maf can be quite a pain to get them to run without misfire codes. only do this if you must have emissions, and consider getting a VPC or map ecu to delete the maf. Even a vpc seems to set off misfire codes otherwise the cars seem to run ok. not sure anyones tried the map ecu yet.
If you are 98+ vvti, then you have to use a JDM VVTI 2jzgte ecu but odb2 port will not work. The VVTI 2jzgte was never offered in US.
The 2jzgte vvti and 2jzge vvti have the same ecu connector (I think), but its not the same as non vvti connector, so you are stuck with this ecu but the good news is you already have the right coilpacks ignitor and most of the wiring, and once done it will control vvti like a gte would, will probably need a gte maf to be swapped in place of stock maf and a map sensor added (2jz) to keep ecu happy. Don't think anyone has done this so let us know if you have more info on it.
Now that we touched on the year ranges and an idea of what ecu you should look to use, I want to mention about transmissions.
The tt ecu mod does not control the torque converter lockup on the GE transmissions. this function does not work.
The GE trans will shift through all the gears, it just won't lock/unlock the torque converter.
If this is important to you for long drives, cruising on the highway etc.. then you need to look into swapping in a TT auto and wiring it up, or swapping to a manual transmission, or possibly investing in a beefy trans cooler but I dont know if that will be enough (probably a good idea either way though).
So, this write up is focused on 92-95 using the JDM ecu and VVTI coils, that is what most will end up using as it is just map sensor based.
Skip to post 4
for info on using a USDM ecu 96-97 (you will need a TT maf and TT map, and get 550cc injectors instead of the 440cc)
See post 4
for wiring up the stock coil/distributor instead of a vvti coils (still need a ds62 ignitor though)
See post 4
for wiring up TT ignitor/coils instead of a vvti ignitor/coils (must have a Font Facing Intake Manifold)
See post 4
for wiring up 1ZZ/2ZZ coils instead of a vvti ignitor/coils (must have a Font Facing Intake Manifold)
See post 4
for wiring up GM LQ9 coils and for using the stock ignitor/coil (both currently require an IGF simulator/faker).
Parts for JDM ECU:
TT ecu: Jdm Aristo or Supra ecu (aristo is more common and always auto; supra has auto and manual ecu's)
injectors: 440cc (stock size and plug and play), or you can run up to 550cc reliably with a fuel controller
airflow: TT Map sensor(2.3 bar) + Intake temp sensor IAT (universal is fine)
coil on plugs: For vvti coils you need a ds62 ignitor (toyota version) (or dh61 lexus version).
Heated o2 sensor works best but even the stock non-heated one works but a little longer to warm up when cold.
You will also need 5 spare ecu pins to do the mod with vvti coils (recommended), 8 for doing mod with gte coils.
you can get these off a spare harness or from another member or online as well as at Toyota.
STEP 1: Install Map and IAT
Install Stock TT MAP sensor and IAT as per diagram below, if your wire colors are different go by pin location.
Map sensor can be 1jz or 2jz, thats about it. IAT can be from the 1jz, 2jz, GM, or a universal unit (im using an aem one).
this is the wiring for the jdm ecu, which reuses all your old maf wires to connect your new map and IAT to.
note you move the old maf signal wire pin (B66) to the map signal wire spot (B62) at the ecu plug
do not forget or you will have no map signal
Just a heads up, when installing the map, get all your wires right and ready in the connector before plugging the map sensor in, if it isn't right unplug the map and do the wiring till you get it right. Don't make connections while the map is connected or you can hurt the map or worse the ecu 5V driver and then you could need a new ecu.
Step 2: Install injectors
stock size is 440cc, I suggest most people start here and it will support 400hp. good for at least a bar of boost on most medium size turbos.
550's will start and drive around but will run very rich. Most wash out the spark in boost when running 550's and no piggyback.
So a safc is recommended if you go 550cc, but if you go larger like 660cc safc is definitely needed as it won't run right.
You are looking for top feed injectors (unlike gte side feed injectors), and you are looking for high impedance.
also they are specifically import size ("Denso") or 11mm, if you see domestic or 14mm injectors those will not fit the stock fuel rail.
7mgte injectors drop in but are low impedance and require a 7m or JZ resistor pack, and usually an injector cleaning.
Many aftermarket 440cc's are high impedance and do not need a resistor pack (Like some RC's, Delphi) which are the best/easiest route.
Also there are alot of options online for remanufactured injectors that seem to be a good route to try. search for "2jzge injectors".
*I am going to try and update this with known injectors that work as people report them back to me.
I have heard these are the proper RC 440cc: RC SL4-440 but it is not confirmed which part number has the right type for the lower runner, will update when it is.
Alot of injectors like these will have EV1 connectors and you need to change your injector clips to EV1 style (or use plug and play adapters):
There are some injectors that have the round denso clips (like stock) like remanufactured but are easier cause they are drop in with not adapters needed.
consider though that with a ffim, the adapter gives you extra length to tuck your harness under the manifold without having to break out the soldering iron.
If you do break out the soldering iron to change clips, make your wires longer than stock it will help alot when you put on a FFIM you wont need to rewire at all
If you are 96+ or using a 96+ lower runner, note that the odb2 lower runner uses a different style of injectors that look similar to the IS300 injectors which have 2 orings, a small one on the bottom and a large one right above it. ODB1 injectors are the common ones that just have the 1 oring at the bottom. please note they are not the same generally speaking. If you have an odb2 runner you can get away with using obd1 injectors, as the main larger oring will seal the top part even though its not the perfect size. the air assist hose stuff won't work but no one cares about that usually.
other options are to try IS300 injectors which are becoming available now in larger sizes (I am not 100% sure they will fit they just look the same notice I wrote try), or you can change your lower runner to a odb1 lower runner and use the odb1 injectors, and yes the odb2 upper will bolt to the odb1 lower runner just fine. you can also use a obd1 throttle body and that will get rid of the other size of the air assist hose. again you can just use the obd1 injectors it turns out on your obd2 runner and block the air hoses from the throttle body, at least on normal boost applications.
Step 3: Install Coil on plug ignition system
I recommend using the vvti coils and ignitor setup, which is all around better than gte coils and fits under the stock intake manifold.
See the diagram for the vvti wiring below.
You can run the vvti coils with either the lexus ignitor (DH61) or a toyota ignitor (DS62) as they both are the same ignitor.
I recommend finding the DS62 because they are widely available online and you can usually get the plug with some wires on it all for around ~$30, and the plug is really usefull as plug alone cost similar at toyota, and the dh61 alone will be several times more than this price and I have never seen one with the plug cause no one in their right mind will cut a vvti harness so you can have the plug and wires. You can get these parts at Toyota also if you have one without the plug but its pricey for just a connector and some wires.
I put steps 2 and 3 together, its because when doing the injectors you will have the stock intake manifold apart, and is a good time to drop the coils in as you will have to remove at least to the throttle body to get the vvti coils dropped in, like a regular spark plug change. Also the old metal spark plug holder thing needs to come out of the plug valley so your coilpacks can sit right and its held on by the inside valve cover bolts.
Step 4: Fire her up and set your base timing with a timing light.
Follow the timing check procedure in any of the manuals.
You jumper the diagnostic pins (TE1 and E1), and set the base timing by rotating the distributor.
You should always hear a VERY NOTICEABLE change in how the motor is running/sounding when you put the jumper in to set the base timing
If you don't hear anything change, the tps is not in the right position and it wont let you change base timing cause it thinks you are revving some.
See this very helpful post by HiPSI showing how to adjust the tps when ecu won't let you set base timing.
Once you got it changing sound when you put in the jumper, you are ready to initially set the base timing.
I recommend starting low like 6-8 degrees I like mine best @ 8 and I have a TT headgasket only.
After it is warmed up fully hot double check and adjust your base timing if necessary. If you set it cold before then it may be different now.
stock gte base timing is 10 degrees but the higher your compression is the less base timing you can run or you may pick up knock.
For Example: If you have gte compression (8.5), set it to 10. if you have 9.x:1 compression, set it to 8. If you have stock compression, you probably want to try 6-8.
Play with the advance at your own risk but remember lower is safer.
Always set your base timing when changing ecu's, if you happen to be too advanced you can damage your motor
Step 5: O2 sensor
The stock o2 sensor technically will work the JDM ecu and you only need one o2 sensor instead of 2 or 3 you may have already.
some SC's come with 1 wires sensors (non heated) and 4 wire sensors (heated- found on obd2 or all cali spec).
If you have a 4 wire then you have the right kind already, make sure the one that goes to ecu pin B48 is the one you are using, and that the heater for that one goes to B71.
If your downpipe doesn't take the bolt on kind you have you can just get a 4 wire sensor described below that is a scew in type, and redo the wiring on your plug, no need to add wires to the ecu since your car came with heated you are ahead of the curve.
If you have the 1 wire, then you can either use that and live with burning a little extra fuel on startup till the car warms, or get a 4 wire sensor and wire it up to the ecu. alot of times you want a new sensor because of a screw in type for most downpipes and well unless you just replaced yours its a good idea to get a new o2 sensor on these ecu's especially since you are turbo now.
You can also just get a 1 wire screw in type and put it in and call it a day, but if you want your o2 to come on within 20 seconds or so of starting the car, then you need to add the heater wires.
The sensor I use is a Denso 234-4309 universal 4 wire sensor (you can get great deals on these online usually under $35).
To wire a 1 wire to a 4 wire:
One black wire goes to ecu pin B71 (heater pin ecu uses to turn heater on).
Other black wire goes to 12v pin (black/red wire at ecu or in engine bay, power for the heater).
The White wire to a chassis ground (Its a ground don't ask me what its for just ground it already).
The blue wire goes to ecu pin B48 or just connect to original signal wire (the signal wire its pretty self explanatory).
This is what it looks like on a car that comes with a 4 wire o2 stock for reference (95 supra TT USDM).
Note that the heater wire on the JDM ecu is B71 as said above. It is not the one in the picture below the one below is just an example.
Step 6: A/C Relay (when using Aristo ecu, Supra ecu not needed).
If you are using an aristo ecu here is the a/c fix, see post #29
Basically GE Hvac unit sends send ground to the ecu, and aristo ecu wants a power signal, so this relay fixes that by sending power to the aristo ecu when it gets the ground from the GE Hvac unit.
Step 7: torque converter lockup fix (Only for automatic models, if you are manual skip this step)
There was a theoretical relay fix here on post 1619 that was tried but it does not work, so don't expect this function to work.
I would suggest swapping to a manual transmission and not worrying about any of this stuff as mainly the stock auto is delicate,.
You can go with a GTE auto and add all the extra wiring (I dont know what exactly you will have to look up the wires or easier way is grab a gte harness and unwrap it and borrow all those wires).
*Edit* I did some reading over at clubna-t in this thread http://forum.clubna-t.com/showthread.php?t=4145
Basically it says you can swap the valvebody of an GE auto onto a GTE auto so you can have a GTE auto controlled by the GE ecu (what we want but backwards). Well that got me thinking its probably possible to then install the GTE valvebody onto the GE transmission and control it with our GTE ecu. So if someone wants to try it just need a gte trans or valvebody, and then swap it onto your stock trans. the wiring would also need to be added for the extra solenoids like if you were swapping the whole gte auto and moving a pin or 2 around at the ecu.
I would still think its better to swap in the gte auto and wire it up, than installing the valvebody on the GE transmission because the gte transmission can hold more power and more reliably.
Step 8: Re-Plumb ACIS butterfly directly to intake manifold (recommended with stock intake manifold)
The TT ecu has different VSV's than the GE ecu and does not control ACIS correctly when doing the mod.
This results in sluggish spool and down low performance basically getting no benefit from the GE intake manifold design.
Good news is connecting the ACIS valve as shown in the post below will give you a large increase in spool compared to leaving it disconnected.
In vacuum you get long runners all the time now for extra torque/spool, and when you get into boost it goes to short runner which is better for top end HP (when the engine needs the most air it can pull through both sides of the Y in short runner as opposed to one side in long runner).
Think of it like a car having long runners all the time, and short runners in boost. the end result is very good for performance.
see post 1095 http://www.clublexus.com/forums/8095725-post1095.html
If you have removed all those hardlines, simply run a vac line from intake manifold to the butterfly like you would connect a bov or boost gauge.
Connecting the 2 hardpipes shown above achieves that by bypassing the canister and connecting the butterfly to the intake directly.
Step 9: Tach mod to get tachometer reading again with new ignitor
the 3 channel (vvti) and 6 channel (gte) ignitors put out a different tach signal than the stock 1 channel ignitor (distributor).
to get it working again remove the cluster and you need to jump a resistor with a short piece of wire (bypassing it).
easiest is to just solder each side of the wire to each of the legs of the resistor going into the board (you don't have to remove resistor in case you ever want to go back just cut wire).
its the same thing you would do if you were doing a gte swap.
jump the R109 resistor on 92-94 clusters, and the R73 resistor on 95-96 clusters.
for the newer gauge clusters 97 .. jump resistor R2 (Thanks for the info Gerrb!)
Step 10: go out and actually enjoy your na-t for a change without battling the stock ecu
I have tested it out personally, and it runs great.
cheap engine management for 400hp with the 440cc injectors, basically how a stock supra drives with a single on it.
throw on a piggyback and larger injectors after you get it all sorted and you can make even more power.
The best part with na-t is that the distributor can be rotated, so you can actually change your base timing with the gte ecu.
If you run really large injectors and your piggyback is advancing your timing, you can actually dial back your base timing with the distributor/CPS.
YOU CANT DO THAT ON A GTE MOTOR!!! an extra feature that may prove to be very helpful in the future.
**edit** I wanted to link this great thread on using a TT ecu w/TT coilpacks
also check out my distributor delete thread for coilpack related wiring info (I recommend keeping the distributor as a sensor with the TT ecu mod, couldn't get my 7m cps to work but that was after a re-wire which could be the reason it doesn't work now. You can try it but not sure how well it works so I recommend just using the distributor and going 7m cps if you are on a standalone)
I have found it to run really well with the stock map sensor and 440cc injectors. thats a great baseline to start from.
The TT coilopacks and ignitor works with the TT ecu, The vvti coilpacks and ignitor works as well, I have verified both.
I have not run the distributor in its stock form with the stock ignitor and coil, and some people are having ignitor issues trying out the stock setup. The gte ecu with proper coils should now be the starting point for na-t management. the ge ecu cannot even compare to how the gte ecu drives.
My car drives like a stock lexus again, with about double the power.
Short vid of it running on the GTE coils and Ignitor, before i installed the vvti coils and ignitor.
Note: if you do not have a front facing intake manifold (FFIM), you cannot run TT coils and ignitor, they wont fit under the stock intake.
This is another reason I only recommend the vvti coils now.
Another short vid of it running on the vvti coils and ignitor (my preferred/current setup).
Here is what the ecu connector looks like and the places of interest to us (GE and GTE have same connector).
This shows how you wire up the coils and also move the wire for the old maf sensor to the new MAP sensor spot (ODB1 only).
Remember the 3 coils have to go in a certain order as shown in the picture (this is the least confusing arrangement trust me):
Coil 1 sits on cylinder 6 (and has a lead wire running to cylinder 1 not shown)
Coil 3 sits on cylinder 4 (and has a lead wire running to cylinder 3 not shown)
Coil 2 sits on cylinder 2 (and has a lead wire running to cylinder 5 not shown)
general guideline of what to do for the ignitor wiring:
your wire colors may be different but the pin locations are always the same on these ignitors.
look at this diagram from a 95 supra for pin locations (I don't have the SC one right now).
the power wire should always be black/orange, and the IGF is always red/yellow... the tach wire is usually black or black white..
the rest well the vary from year to year
First remove all the pins/wires out from the old ignitor plug, and then insert them into the new ds62 ignitor plug as shown in the diagram, this includes +B, tach, IGT1, IGF.
you only run 2 new wires from the ecu and that is IGT2 and IGT3.
Then you add a ground wire and ground it to chassis ground or even battery ground.
For the 4 wires to the coils, you run the 3 signal wires (coils 1-3) to the new coils, and for the +B for the coil you have to splice off the +B wire you just moved over from the old ignitor.
The old coil wire that goes from the stock ignitor to the stock coil is not shown in the diagram above because normally its not used as it goes to the wrong place, but its the 5th wire connected to the old ignitor that's not the 4 shown above. If you were to rewire your harness you could potentially move and reuse this wire, but its easier to just forget about it, and get a mk3 coilpack harness and extend those 4 wires from the coils to the ignitor, as it already has the right clips on it and everything, its just short some.
here is the wiring of the plug for the TT map sensor (courtesy of 8052JZ)
this is the wire description for the maf plug on the diagram below.
pin 1 is brown: Sensor ground for MAP and IAT (not to be confused with a regular ground. 5V sensors have their own ground pin on the ecu)
pin 2 is yellow/black: IAT signal wire
pin 3 is yellow/green: MAF/MAP signal (remember to move pin to b62 for JDM version of the mod)
pin 4 is blue/red : +5v (blue/red is always +5v not to be confused with +12v used on the newer maf's like the gte maf)
pin 5 is brown: another ground (I generally use the other ground above and leave this one alone)