2JZGE Na-T TT Ecu Mod
06-13-16, 11:05 PM
#3197
According to beech performance they want you to re use the Toyota tps paddle and drill and mount into the nissan throttle body shaft, it sucks, I ended up machining a piece of aluminum with a horizontal locking screw and then drilling and installing two pins to act on the tps, I'm currently far away from my car but if I have time I'll draw a diagram and post it up.
06-14-16, 02:32 AM
#3198
According to beech performance they want you to re use the Toyota tps paddle and drill and mount into the nissan throttle body shaft, it sucks, I ended up machining a piece of aluminum with a horizontal locking screw and then drilling and installing two pins to act on the tps, I'm currently far away from my car but if I have time I'll draw a diagram and post it up.
06-14-16, 08:00 AM
#3199
This is a very rudimentary sketch but I hope you get the idea
Item C is what I made and you don't need a lathe but it was my solution and it locked into the throttle body shaft via loctite and set screw and I started the tps via voltage reading.
I got the same item from beech and not too bad mouth them but I felt let down, had I known I was going to put this much effort into it I would have made my own adapter.
Item C is what I made and you don't need a lathe but it was my solution and it locked into the throttle body shaft via loctite and set screw and I started the tps via voltage reading.
I got the same item from beech and not too bad mouth them but I felt let down, had I known I was going to put this much effort into it I would have made my own adapter.
06-22-16, 10:56 PM
#3201
IAT Sensor
Has anyone confirmed that the GM or AEM IAT's match the 1JZ/2JZ IAT sensors in terms of temp versus resistance? I know that some people say the IAT isn't that important so they just hang it in the engine bay, but I'm a bit of a perfectionist.
If the Toyota IAT matches the GM IAT then I'm leaning towards the GM IAT as A) It's way easier to find (especially with the pigtail) and cheaper, and B) It's an open element design, so it should react far more quickly. However, it would be a different story if its providing the ECU w/ consistently incorrect temp values.
Apologies if this has been addressed, I'm only about half way through reading this entire thread.
If the Toyota IAT matches the GM IAT then I'm leaning towards the GM IAT as A) It's way easier to find (especially with the pigtail) and cheaper, and B) It's an open element design, so it should react far more quickly. However, it would be a different story if its providing the ECU w/ consistently incorrect temp values.
Apologies if this has been addressed, I'm only about half way through reading this entire thread.
06-23-16, 06:41 AM
#3202
Based on what I just saw online it looks pretty close ~2200 omhs Toyota is 68-70°F and 2290 omhs is 68°F for gm. Just search for iat charts for comparison resistances if you need more specific info.
*edit- Also just to add a bit more its typically only ±1-3%, I just have mine for the obd2 code and because the temperature in New York varies significantly throughout the year.
*edit- Also just to add a bit more its typically only ±1-3%, I just have mine for the obd2 code and because the temperature in New York varies significantly throughout the year.
Last edited by 187; 06-23-16 at 04:02 PM.
06-23-16, 08:23 AM
#3203
I could never really find the toyota IAT without buying the whole intake manifold so I just used the other one. from what I understand it just wants to see when cold or warmed up, its not crazy sensitive inbetween those 2 values. good to know its close though based on what 187 said.
07-05-16, 07:07 PM
#3204
To preface: I read all 214 pages over the past few weeks and enjoyed every bit of it. I am excited for those that got everything working, and hope to have learned from those that didn't.
One question I had that was brought up in the thread a few times, but is not answered inside anywhere, is how do you actually remove the 110mph speed limiter from the JDM ecu?
Does the limit only apply to automatics etc?
One question I had that was brought up in the thread a few times, but is not answered inside anywhere, is how do you actually remove the 110mph speed limiter from the JDM ecu?
Does the limit only apply to automatics etc?
07-05-16, 10:15 PM
#3205
To preface: I read all 214 pages over the past few weeks and enjoyed every bit of it. I am excited for those that got everything working, and hope to have learned from those that didn't.
One question I had that was brought up in the thread a few times, but is not answered inside anywhere, is how do you actually remove the 110mph speed limiter from the JDM ecu?
Does the limit only apply to automatics etc?
One question I had that was brought up in the thread a few times, but is not answered inside anywhere, is how do you actually remove the 110mph speed limiter from the JDM ecu?
Does the limit only apply to automatics etc?
Must have taken a while
That is a good question. IF you have a manual transmission, you can pull the speed sensor wire from the ecu, or alot of people run that wire through a switch and flip it when you need it.
you can also buy a HKS speed limit defencer (SLD) instead and it will let the ecu have the speed signal and then trick the ecu sort of like the Greddy boost cut controller but for speed cut.
If you have an automatic, its not as easy. anything you do with that wire will affect the trans shifts, and I am not sure what happens if you put it on a switch. You more or less need to buy an HKS speed limit defencer (SLD) which I believe lets the signal go up to before speed cut and then it holds that signal to the ecu, so everything works fine (trans) and there is no speed cut.
Alot of this stuff turns out easier when running a manual transmission.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 07-05-16 at 10:18 PM.
07-14-16, 11:29 AM
#3206
If I have done the vvti coils and keep the distro minus rotor for cam sensor, what is the best way to check timing? So I jump TE1 and E1 but where do I pull signal for the light from. Im sure im missing something simple, but I cannot find a specific NA-T answer for this.
By the way this has all been a huge help on my build, cant wait to fire her up once my manifold comes back from the fab shop.
By the way this has all been a huge help on my build, cant wait to fire her up once my manifold comes back from the fab shop.
07-14-16, 11:48 AM
#3207
If you follow the guide for vvti coils, you end up with the coils sitting on cylinders 2, 4 and 6.
now the coilpack on cylinder 6 will have a wire that runs to cylinder 1.
So when I check timing I attach the timing light on the wire running to cylinder 1, with the arrow pointing towards cylinder 1.
with wasted spark you can check it off of cylinder 1 or 6, doesn't matter so if you have your coils sitting differently than in the thread then just use the wire on 1 or 6.
Also to note, use the most basic timing light you can find.... do not use a "DIAL BACK" timing light, where it has the digital gauge and you enter the timing you want... it will read wrong with wasted spark. you want the old one with just an on off button and you line up the numbers on the crank yourself.
if it was 6 individual gte coils you would need the adapter thing that sits between the coil and the plug, just another convenience of having vvti coils, easy to check timing on... and since that wire from 6 to 1 is so long, I can usually get to it without removing the coil plug cover.
good luck on the start and keep us posted on how it goes
now the coilpack on cylinder 6 will have a wire that runs to cylinder 1.
So when I check timing I attach the timing light on the wire running to cylinder 1, with the arrow pointing towards cylinder 1.
with wasted spark you can check it off of cylinder 1 or 6, doesn't matter so if you have your coils sitting differently than in the thread then just use the wire on 1 or 6.
Also to note, use the most basic timing light you can find.... do not use a "DIAL BACK" timing light, where it has the digital gauge and you enter the timing you want... it will read wrong with wasted spark. you want the old one with just an on off button and you line up the numbers on the crank yourself.
if it was 6 individual gte coils you would need the adapter thing that sits between the coil and the plug, just another convenience of having vvti coils, easy to check timing on... and since that wire from 6 to 1 is so long, I can usually get to it without removing the coil plug cover.
good luck on the start and keep us posted on how it goes
07-18-16, 02:42 PM
#3209
Good luck, follow the guide and it will work out especially with the JDM ecu setup.
Since you are doing coils and FFIM at the same time you may have a few bugs to work out as its just a lot of things to cover at once, but if you aren't sure just ask away cause everything is easier to reach before you install / start wiring.
Since you are doing coils and FFIM at the same time you may have a few bugs to work out as its just a lot of things to cover at once, but if you aren't sure just ask away cause everything is easier to reach before you install / start wiring.
07-25-16, 11:21 PM
#3210
Hello all,
It has been a while since I've last posted. All is running nice and dandy with my NA-T motor without using a a fuel controller. I've been thinking of getting a set of Brian Crower 264 duration cams but am hesitant because it may make my motor run too rich on idle. Does anyone have experience running aftermarket cams with the NA-T ecu mod?
Thanks!
It has been a while since I've last posted. All is running nice and dandy with my NA-T motor without using a a fuel controller. I've been thinking of getting a set of Brian Crower 264 duration cams but am hesitant because it may make my motor run too rich on idle. Does anyone have experience running aftermarket cams with the NA-T ecu mod?
Thanks!