Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

reset it and select 6 cylinder and "pressure". sounds like the map is wired right.

tptpete

iTrader: (2)

Changed setting to pressure and 1 in/1 out. I think it's thworth scaling factor not that I can find info on it at the moment lol. Seems happy. I'll take it to work tomorrow to get it relearning.

tptpete

iTrader: (2)

All fixed. Now I know more about the set up at least.

Studiogeek

iTrader: (6)

Wow, when I was running the TT ECU Mod, my car ran perfect every day (except the day I shorted the ECU out LOL).
If it needed a tweak, I could pop into this thread and get expert help any time from Ali, HIPSI or any number of other generous members who know their stuff.
I got an AEM V2 and I barely drive it now. It cuts off under heavy boost and no one knows why (I actually have not put much effort into fixing it admittedly).
What I really miss is this forum where we all were running almost the same gear and could help each other out almost instantly.

Don't take this for granted guys, this is a unique ecosystem here.

I'll never sell my TT ECU parts (maybe my 3 spare setups though ;-)

Thanks again guys!

tptpete

iTrader: (2)

It is a great group here. Very happy with the support and lack of trash talk and trolling. Good mods.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

Thats great you got it figured out, it only helps to know how its all setup.

So you are saying you will be back soon

I think the most important thing has been knowledgeable members sharing information with each other and when appropriate stopping the spread of misinformation in a non-confrontational way.

Its not that I don't want to poke fun at the guy who doesn't know that a pull type bov is inherently better than a push type bov, or that a GTE turbo manifold does not bolt up to a GE motor, its just that I won't because there was a day when I was that guy

ems

iTrader: (1)

Hey, does anyone have any spare pins from a harness laying around? Its on my parts list and figured it was easier to ask here than the classifieds. I am so close to getting all my NA-T stuff together it feels like waiting for christmas day! Thanks for the years of posting this info on here, most of my SC friends keep saying "standalone dont waste your time with that!" but its not about the price, its about the challenge at this point.

187

So I was doing a bit more research over on the IS and Supra forums and I think I'm going to try splicing the second heated 02 into the primary bank 1 sensor 1. Apparently it is pretty common for the IS guys, I figure its worth testing and then if it works I can make more permanent changes at the ecu. I also picked up a variable resistor for some IAT testing and I got my B chip in the mail today so just waiting for the car to be cold before trying that out.

Other than that just passed my yearly inspection, not with ease but that was my fault.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

will check to see if I have spare pins ems.

187, you only have one of the 2 o2 sensors connected? that means only 3 cylinders are getting correction... the other 3 are running rich. on the USDM ecu you need both o2 sensors connected. you can try the splice but if its not working I would probably just put another o2 on the downpipe and wiring to be safe.

187

I have all three 02's I was just referring to the ones that actually do something. It had no effect but it did work so kind of weird.

I disconnected the the stock pins from the vpc iat and put a variable resistor in there and set it at 68 degrees F because that was the ambient. I'm going to test cruising around with that and see what happens. The difference between the vpc iat and a stock maf is pretty big it was about 1000 ohms vs 2500 ohms today.

I'll try out the chip sometime this week after the iat testing, but it did seem to be happier after the iat change.

myLEXsc400

i havent been on this tread in a while.

So, my car has been running the on a USDM OBDII TT ECU and it runs nice, but i might have a slight boost leak somewhere. My CEL is still on for a random misfire, but the car seems to run nice. I think it only misses at idle. I have some fuel being trimmed by doing a basic tune with an SAFC2. I have no clue how to get rid of the CEL though.

The really strange thing happens after driving the car for a while and shutting it off and then starting it back up a later when the engine doesnt have time to fully cool off. At that point when its started, the car idles a tad lower and wideband shows very lean condition. However, once I give it some gas once or twice, idle pics up a tad and lean condition goes away and A/F ratio goes back to hovering between 15-16. What can this be?

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

Oh I see now. well that is good that it works but probably no advantage their to running 2.
alot of vpc users seem to say to use the resistor, so their may be something to it.
let us know on the chip, I still am not sure how it can work with the 550's but if it does that would be nice.

sometimes the tps can affect things at idle, try backing off the tps as much as possible so it reads the lowest. that somehow raises the idle up via the ecu I figured out lately and it seems to run smoother, but it could also be alot of other stuff as you said.

I would avoid doing trimming on the safc that is not all across the board the same value (like injector changes) unless its on the WOT part above like 4k rpm's. if you are trimming in closed loop and its not a constant across the board thing, the fuel correction will be all over the place and start to swing. something to think about.

the lean on the restart after shutting down is called the "hot start" issue. its completely normal, it happens on all of the 2jzgte ecu's.
what happens is the motor is actually hotter than when you shut it down for the first 20-30 minutes cause the coolant isn't circulating, and this causes a lean burn until the motor gets some coolant running through it again and has a minute to stabilize in temps. I find a couple taps of the gas can clear it out faster instead of just letting it idle lean. I usually just get in and start driving it right away when that happens and then you don't even notice it under load. Give it a minute or 2 before going into any serious boost though.

187

So got a chance to do some driving this weekend, nothing ground breaking to report sadly. I did try the 680cc chip, the car idled comparatively to the 550 but when I tried to drive it it was horrible. Kind of hard to describe but I poped the 550 back in and it was back to "normal". I also had the chance to plug in the car to my friends computer, the second 02 sensor has a fixed short term fuel trim at -1% for some reason. I also didn't know that each sensor has its own short term fuel trim. I'm going to try hooking the sensors together again and put some miles on it.

I'm not giving up on the chip stuff just yet, but its a moot point being that the open loop tune doesn't appear to work properly and I don't see anyway of fixing that.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

yeah as soon as you hit the throttle I am sure it went lean and wouldn't rev right. mine does the same thing if I pull too much fuel on the map ecu. thats why I thought it wouldn't work without the larger injectors. those kind of things like the vpc you have to match every little thing to the tune.

on obd2 each o2 sensor has a long term trim and short term fuel trim, I would run 2 complete heated o2 sensors.
all the rest of the options you will just chase your tail. tying them together is not a good idea in my book, but then again IS crowd does lots of things that I think aren't good ideas.

187

The only problem other than that one with the stuck trim is that they are at different distances on the mid pipe. And I just put a brand new 02 in the port i'm combining at. Still not sure whats going on with my fuel, are there any max fuel trim limits both long and short term?

The way the 680 chip acted made me second guess the 550 operation as well. Going to go into open loop today to see whats going on outside of the 02's. I need to do some more reading on why my fuel is all over the place.