2JZGE Na-T TT Ecu Mod
04-12-16, 01:53 PM
#3106
The tt ecu mod is working great for me right now, I was just switching ecu's as I thought I was making changes to the car sooner, but then this whole audi project happened so I am going to hold off on it till I actually do make the changes. I want to go larger turbo and quick spool valve, and possibly meth injection or just swap over to E85.
Once the audi is done I wont be using the SC much so I dont need the reliability of the TT ecu like I would on a daily driver, so I plan on running more power (at least 6-700hp) and possibly drag racing it for fun. I wanted to have the extra features the aem has like 2 step launch, failsafes, and ability to run extra stuff and also get a tune on it for some extra ponies.
I am sure there are ways to make the tt ecu mod work with more power and even e85 which I may experiment with but I just wanted the flexibility and more options on the aem and since the used units have dropped in price dramatically I figured why not grab one. I can also run a sc400 1uz on a aem box so it can be used on a bunch of different projects in the future. when I bought/sold mine way back they were like 1200-1400 used, now they are like 6-700 used and as annoying as they are to setup they can make some good power once tuned properly, that is if you can get the car started.
Once the audi is done I wont be using the SC much so I dont need the reliability of the TT ecu like I would on a daily driver, so I plan on running more power (at least 6-700hp) and possibly drag racing it for fun. I wanted to have the extra features the aem has like 2 step launch, failsafes, and ability to run extra stuff and also get a tune on it for some extra ponies.
I am sure there are ways to make the tt ecu mod work with more power and even e85 which I may experiment with but I just wanted the flexibility and more options on the aem and since the used units have dropped in price dramatically I figured why not grab one. I can also run a sc400 1uz on a aem box so it can be used on a bunch of different projects in the future. when I bought/sold mine way back they were like 1200-1400 used, now they are like 6-700 used and as annoying as they are to setup they can make some good power once tuned properly, that is if you can get the car started.
04-13-16, 09:10 PM
#3107
Still on the w58 with upgraded clutch?
The tt ecu mod is working great for me right now, I was just switching ecu's as I thought I was making changes to the car sooner, but then this whole audi project happened so I am going to hold off on it till I actually do make the changes. I want to go larger turbo and quick spool valve, and possibly meth injection or just swap over to E85.
Once the audi is done I wont be using the SC much so I dont need the reliability of the TT ecu like I would on a daily driver, so I plan on running more power (at least 6-700hp) and possibly drag racing it for fun. I wanted to have the extra features the aem has like 2 step launch, failsafes, and ability to run extra stuff and also get a tune on it for some extra ponies.
I am sure there are ways to make the tt ecu mod work with more power and even e85 which I may experiment with but I just wanted the flexibility and more options on the aem and since the used units have dropped in price dramatically I figured why not grab one. I can also run a sc400 1uz on a aem box so it can be used on a bunch of different projects in the future. when I bought/sold mine way back they were like 1200-1400 used, now they are like 6-700 used and as annoying as they are to setup they can make some good power once tuned properly, that is if you can get the car started.
Once the audi is done I wont be using the SC much so I dont need the reliability of the TT ecu like I would on a daily driver, so I plan on running more power (at least 6-700hp) and possibly drag racing it for fun. I wanted to have the extra features the aem has like 2 step launch, failsafes, and ability to run extra stuff and also get a tune on it for some extra ponies.
I am sure there are ways to make the tt ecu mod work with more power and even e85 which I may experiment with but I just wanted the flexibility and more options on the aem and since the used units have dropped in price dramatically I figured why not grab one. I can also run a sc400 1uz on a aem box so it can be used on a bunch of different projects in the future. when I bought/sold mine way back they were like 1200-1400 used, now they are like 6-700 used and as annoying as they are to setup they can make some good power once tuned properly, that is if you can get the car started.
04-14-16, 08:42 AM
#3108
Unfortunately yes, its still working although the clutch has gotten a little softer its still basically an on/off affair with that clutch. Have plans to go 6 speed either the 350z or the Tremec path is what I am leaning towards now, which will happen later will likely pull the motor and do all the upgrades and drop it back in with the new transmission if I ever get to that point.
04-17-16, 10:01 AM
#3109
So little update for the obd2 mod. I tried uncapping the IACV and connecting the large port that was previously connected to the fuel rail area to the large vacuum port that the power steering pump used to use. It did not improve anything, it did keep the idle higher than normal ~800 as apposed to 650. I have reverted back to capping both ports as before.
I'm still very rich up top, showing 10.0. The drop in power is noticeable once the fuel reaches a constant 10.0. You can almost hear the excessive fuel drowning out the cylinders. I have not played with the vpc much with regard to this issue because the computer trims pretty much ignore the vpc.
The only thing I've been thinking about is the IACV. As far as GE vs GTE and the iacv placement and that check valve that I don't have. I plan on adjusting the vpc to see if I can pull back some of the fuel, but the long and short term trim seems to be strongly tied to the iacv confusion.
On the plus side the car is still a ton of fun to drive especially since I fixed that boost leak. Any info on IACV issues that you FFIM guys might know about would be appreciated.
I'm still very rich up top, showing 10.0. The drop in power is noticeable once the fuel reaches a constant 10.0. You can almost hear the excessive fuel drowning out the cylinders. I have not played with the vpc much with regard to this issue because the computer trims pretty much ignore the vpc.
The only thing I've been thinking about is the IACV. As far as GE vs GTE and the iacv placement and that check valve that I don't have. I plan on adjusting the vpc to see if I can pull back some of the fuel, but the long and short term trim seems to be strongly tied to the iacv confusion.
On the plus side the car is still a ton of fun to drive especially since I fixed that boost leak. Any info on IACV issues that you FFIM guys might know about would be appreciated.
04-19-16, 06:37 AM
#3110
Ali, just curious but at one point you mentioned that you switched to an AEM unit. Just curious but was this a plug and play unit and do you have a part number? If it wasn't plug and play how much work would it take someone to switch the wiring around in order to make the unit compatible. Again as always thanks for the answers.
04-19-16, 08:48 AM
#3111
Not sure how the IACV would affect the AFR's once everything is under boost, you have the stock IACV and intake manifold right? If you have the stock intake since the IACV gets its air from the throttle body, its all metered air so there is no check valve and the air turn around because its all under the same pressure.
only thing I can think of is that the injectors are flowing more than the factory ones, so what happens is in closed loop it will correct but when you go WOT, it will be rich since there isn't any correction in WOT. The thing to do is to pull fuel up top on boost areas but I don't think you can do that with those piggybacks, its something you would need like a map ecu to do. you could also pull fuel all over the map till its not rich in boost and let the ecu tune its closed loop back to stoich which is something you can probably do with your current stuff.
its tricky to say the least but sounds like you just need some trimming all over and then maybe a little more in boost. if you had an adjustable fuel pressure regulator, you could try lowering it a couple psi and reset the ecu and see if that does the trick, but not everyone has one of those and if you don't then just go the electronic route.
Reyke, the aem ems v1 and v2 plug right in, I think its the newer ones that need wiring. Im using the v1 the part number for a gte which is 30-1100. there is a n/a 30-1101 unit but they are practically the same, I use the gte unit cause they are more available used on supraforums etc.. you have to install a map sensor and IAT (similar to the tt ecu mod except a bigger map sensor) and get it all tuned. do not expect to be driving your car around very far on the base map. I actually just put the tt ecu mod back in so I can enjoy it for the summer until I do the upgrades then I will go standalone.
only thing I can think of is that the injectors are flowing more than the factory ones, so what happens is in closed loop it will correct but when you go WOT, it will be rich since there isn't any correction in WOT. The thing to do is to pull fuel up top on boost areas but I don't think you can do that with those piggybacks, its something you would need like a map ecu to do. you could also pull fuel all over the map till its not rich in boost and let the ecu tune its closed loop back to stoich which is something you can probably do with your current stuff.
its tricky to say the least but sounds like you just need some trimming all over and then maybe a little more in boost. if you had an adjustable fuel pressure regulator, you could try lowering it a couple psi and reset the ecu and see if that does the trick, but not everyone has one of those and if you don't then just go the electronic route.
Reyke, the aem ems v1 and v2 plug right in, I think its the newer ones that need wiring. Im using the v1 the part number for a gte which is 30-1100. there is a n/a 30-1101 unit but they are practically the same, I use the gte unit cause they are more available used on supraforums etc.. you have to install a map sensor and IAT (similar to the tt ecu mod except a bigger map sensor) and get it all tuned. do not expect to be driving your car around very far on the base map. I actually just put the tt ecu mod back in so I can enjoy it for the summer until I do the upgrades then I will go standalone.
04-19-16, 01:40 PM
#3112
I'll give the vpc a shot, I think it only maxes -8% across the board. Also I do have a TT fpr sitting around that can decrease the fuel pressure. The difference between the ge and gte is significant. So I'm pretty much guaranteed to be flowing more, I should probably double check that.
I wish I knew more about what the iacv is trying to do but I do know the obd1 style iacv works better than my style.
I wish I knew more about what the iacv is trying to do but I do know the obd1 style iacv works better than my style.
04-19-16, 02:07 PM
#3113
yeah I am not sure the adjustments it has, but if there is an across the board adjustment then lower that all the way, and then if there is a boost adjustment then lower that one also. if its just rpm based, then lower all the rpm's the same. maybe take a picture of what adjustments are there and I can help you better really never used a vpc before. also make sure you have the right chip in it, some chips are for aftermarket mods.
edit* found a picture
looks like you should be turning the gain **** down then until you see 10.5-11 at least on the wideband.
I would start by turning it down all the way and then seeing where you are at, reset the ecu and start er up on a cold start after turning the **** down.
if that causes you to lean out on tip in (rapid press of throttle from idle) then turn up the throttle response **** a hair.
if that also causes you to idle lean then turn up the idle **** some also.
I find that after adjusting any of these areas on my map ecu, the tends to freak out and wants to be reset.
the only area I have adjusted without it freaking out is the +5psi boost cells but you can't do just that area on a vpc, so be sure to reset the ecu after adjustments and wait till the motor is cold again to truly test it. its annoying but do small steps and you can home in on it in a couple tries/days.
the computer will start to learn stuff so if its not perfect in the first couple seconds don't worry as long as its not super lean, if it is then try the idle **** as said or take the gain up a notch, but wondering if the gain all the way down will cure the boost issue. since the boost area is the one part that does not have o2 correction, I sort of base total across the board adjustment on the boost area being an 10-11 range AFR which is like stock afr. it is different for everyone due to turbo, injectors, and boost run etc... and then the rest of the map should be pretty close... that works most of the time lol
edit* found a picture
looks like you should be turning the gain **** down then until you see 10.5-11 at least on the wideband.
I would start by turning it down all the way and then seeing where you are at, reset the ecu and start er up on a cold start after turning the **** down.
if that causes you to lean out on tip in (rapid press of throttle from idle) then turn up the throttle response **** a hair.
if that also causes you to idle lean then turn up the idle **** some also.
I find that after adjusting any of these areas on my map ecu, the tends to freak out and wants to be reset.
the only area I have adjusted without it freaking out is the +5psi boost cells but you can't do just that area on a vpc, so be sure to reset the ecu after adjustments and wait till the motor is cold again to truly test it. its annoying but do small steps and you can home in on it in a couple tries/days.
the computer will start to learn stuff so if its not perfect in the first couple seconds don't worry as long as its not super lean, if it is then try the idle **** as said or take the gain up a notch, but wondering if the gain all the way down will cure the boost issue. since the boost area is the one part that does not have o2 correction, I sort of base total across the board adjustment on the boost area being an 10-11 range AFR which is like stock afr. it is different for everyone due to turbo, injectors, and boost run etc... and then the rest of the map should be pretty close... that works most of the time lol
Last edited by Ali SC3; 04-19-16 at 02:22 PM.
04-19-16, 02:15 PM
#3114
Hey everyone, today the car started to bog at idle. Been on this set up for a while no issues, previously HiPSI car. Jdm 6spd ecu. It's a rough idle goes up to maybe 800 and bogs to 650 rpm and wants to die. Any thoughts on what to check? 90 degree heat today in NC, I drove it a half hour home doing a few pulls and let it cool a little before I turned it off when I was home. Half hour later it did this. It's warm still, but temp gauge isn't higher than normal or amything.I got a fresh tank of gas yesterday so I'm hoping it isn't a bad fuel mix or something.
I'm gonna turn it over tomorrow morning to just see if it's the heat or what.
I'm gonna turn it over tomorrow morning to just see if it's the heat or what.
04-19-16, 02:29 PM
#3115
that is normal, the GTE ecu idles down to 650 when everything is OK and engine is up to full temp. So it is a good sign. it will stay at around 800 until it is fully warm then at a light it will want to wind down to 650.
with that low of rpm's it does feel like it wants to die at times especially if you are turning the steering wheel but it never really does on mine, but I did use the throttle screw to bump up the idle a hair so it stays more around 800, but that is tricky cause you have to readjust the tps, and if you are on the stock throttle body is not that much adjustment, but might be worth looking into. sometimes turning the a/c on will help stabilize the idle also.
also when you restart the car after turning it off within like 20 minutes, it will start and run lean for like 1 minute, they all do that as the engine is hotter than usual (not enough to show on gauge). sometimes that makes the idle act a little funny but clears up right away or if you start driving it clears up also. do you have a wideband? if you do you might notice it reading lean when that happens its called a "hot start" issue, its normal also on a map sensor car.
could also be something else but sounds like the hot start thing, the extra idle rpm's helps with that also.
with that low of rpm's it does feel like it wants to die at times especially if you are turning the steering wheel but it never really does on mine, but I did use the throttle screw to bump up the idle a hair so it stays more around 800, but that is tricky cause you have to readjust the tps, and if you are on the stock throttle body is not that much adjustment, but might be worth looking into. sometimes turning the a/c on will help stabilize the idle also.
also when you restart the car after turning it off within like 20 minutes, it will start and run lean for like 1 minute, they all do that as the engine is hotter than usual (not enough to show on gauge). sometimes that makes the idle act a little funny but clears up right away or if you start driving it clears up also. do you have a wideband? if you do you might notice it reading lean when that happens its called a "hot start" issue, its normal also on a map sensor car.
could also be something else but sounds like the hot start thing, the extra idle rpm's helps with that also.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 04-19-16 at 02:33 PM.
04-19-16, 03:24 PM
#3116
that is normal, the GTE ecu idles down to 650 when everything is OK and engine is up to full temp. So it is a good sign. it will stay at around 800 until it is fully warm then at a light it will want to wind down to 650.
with that low of rpm's it does feel like it wants to die at times especially if you are turning the steering wheel but it never really does on mine, but I did use the throttle screw to bump up the idle a hair so it stays more around 800, but that is tricky cause you have to readjust the tps, and if you are on the stock throttle body is not that much adjustment, but might be worth looking into. sometimes turning the a/c on will help stabilize the idle also.
also when you restart the car after turning it off within like 20 minutes, it will start and run lean for like 1 minute, they all do that as the engine is hotter than usual (not enough to show on gauge). sometimes that makes the idle act a little funny but clears up right away or if you start driving it clears up also. do you have a wideband? if you do you might notice it reading lean when that happens its called a "hot start" issue, its normal also on a map sensor car.
could also be something else but sounds like the hot start thing, the extra idle rpm's helps with that also.
with that low of rpm's it does feel like it wants to die at times especially if you are turning the steering wheel but it never really does on mine, but I did use the throttle screw to bump up the idle a hair so it stays more around 800, but that is tricky cause you have to readjust the tps, and if you are on the stock throttle body is not that much adjustment, but might be worth looking into. sometimes turning the a/c on will help stabilize the idle also.
also when you restart the car after turning it off within like 20 minutes, it will start and run lean for like 1 minute, they all do that as the engine is hotter than usual (not enough to show on gauge). sometimes that makes the idle act a little funny but clears up right away or if you start driving it clears up also. do you have a wideband? if you do you might notice it reading lean when that happens its called a "hot start" issue, its normal also on a map sensor car.
could also be something else but sounds like the hot start thing, the extra idle rpm's helps with that also.
04-19-16, 03:38 PM
#3117
yeah, knowing hipsi I am sure everything is set up well already, so it might just be the first time you noticed the hot start issue. whenever I notice it hot start I just rev it up and start driving and itll be gone by the time I stop, but if you find that is not it then report back and will try and figure it out.
04-19-16, 05:55 PM
#3119
I'm guessing if the vpc is telling the computer to add less fuel because we are simulating less air going in it should lean out the top. I will probably have to add fuel at idle if I'm taking some away down low, but there should be some combination in there worthy of testing.
And I 100% understand the need to do all the testing cold, had to do a bunch of that with the tps. I'll report back when I get some testing in, thanks again.
And I 100% understand the need to do all the testing cold, had to do a bunch of that with the tps. I'll report back when I get some testing in, thanks again.
04-20-16, 05:04 AM
#3120
I am back sadly..
Today I started the car after sitting over night. In the video you can start to hear the rough idle, see a CEL that is new today and hear some ticking that I don't recall being so load as before. I didn't drive the car so I can't tell you if it clears up after a drive since I didn't want to deal with a problem on the way to work. Let me know what you think.
I am lost to ideas at this point. I didn't see any flashing light to count for the OBDI code. I'll read up as I can throughout the day as well.
Today I started the car after sitting over night. In the video you can start to hear the rough idle, see a CEL that is new today and hear some ticking that I don't recall being so load as before. I didn't drive the car so I can't tell you if it clears up after a drive since I didn't want to deal with a problem on the way to work. Let me know what you think.
I am lost to ideas at this point. I didn't see any flashing light to count for the OBDI code. I'll read up as I can throughout the day as well.