2JZGE Na-T TT Ecu Mod
12-22-15, 08:57 PM
#2986
The coil packs are brand new, so hopefully they last awhile then again they are aftermarket, I'll know soon as I start pushing them though, might have to gap the plugs down but hopefully not too much.
12-26-15, 08:17 AM
#2988
12-26-15, 06:42 PM
#2989
Ok, I've been going crazy on this one, I have no working tach, I saw several posts where spoolxexo says he solved it but I'm posting up here and then sending him a pm for the 1zz coils, thus far they are great, the car feels like it did with the stock single coil. I have done the cluster R109 jumper already, if anyone can chime in great, when I get a solution I'll make sure to post back up.
12-28-15, 11:19 AM
#2990
Ok, I've been going crazy on this one, I have no working tach, I saw several posts where spoolxexo says he solved it but I'm posting up here and then sending him a pm for the 1zz coils, thus far they are great, the car feels like it did with the stock single coil. I have done the cluster R109 jumper already, if anyone can chime in great, when I get a solution I'll make sure to post back up.
um have you tried to see if you jump the R2 resistor behind cluster to see if that helps?
12-28-15, 01:27 PM
#2991
well he is running the internally ignited coilpacks so its probably the wiring cause he said he jumped the tach resistor already.
what I think happened is normally there is a tach wire going from the ignitor to the cluster. you obviously aren't using a separate ignitor anymore and so you probably have not connected anything to the factory tach wire, and have only connected the IGT's going to coils and the IGF's coming back to the ecu.
I would try connecting the IGF wire that you have returned to the ecu to the stock tach wire. I am pretty sure that the tach and IGF signal are similar signals on the later ignitors, which is why some of the newer ignitors don't have them and some cars with the ds62/dh61 have a blank pin where the tach pin is.
what I think happened is normally there is a tach wire going from the ignitor to the cluster. you obviously aren't using a separate ignitor anymore and so you probably have not connected anything to the factory tach wire, and have only connected the IGT's going to coils and the IGF's coming back to the ecu.
I would try connecting the IGF wire that you have returned to the ecu to the stock tach wire. I am pretty sure that the tach and IGF signal are similar signals on the later ignitors, which is why some of the newer ignitors don't have them and some cars with the ds62/dh61 have a blank pin where the tach pin is.
12-29-15, 10:27 PM
#2993
sure you can use any piggyback on the jdm GE ecu. It uses a map sensor similar to the GTE one and it just messes with the map signal, but the voltage is different cause the GE map sensor does not read much boost and will mess with / trip the ecu when it sees boost
to run boost some people run like an emanage on it which use its own map sensor and trick the stock sensor, and find ways to add coils etc.. but it was very complicated and how it was done before people figured out how to use the gte ecu, which has all of those things stock and will pretty much always run better when a turbo is involved.
if you are just wanting to put a piggyback on a jdm ge ecu without a turbo just to tune it a little, then yeah any piggyback would work, its just when you want to add boost that ecu does not register it stock. there might be ways to trick it with the right injector size etc... but you always take a hit in driveability.
to run boost some people run like an emanage on it which use its own map sensor and trick the stock sensor, and find ways to add coils etc.. but it was very complicated and how it was done before people figured out how to use the gte ecu, which has all of those things stock and will pretty much always run better when a turbo is involved.
if you are just wanting to put a piggyback on a jdm ge ecu without a turbo just to tune it a little, then yeah any piggyback would work, its just when you want to add boost that ecu does not register it stock. there might be ways to trick it with the right injector size etc... but you always take a hit in driveability.
01-20-16, 10:11 AM
#2994
Hope everyone is running well!
I should be able to look this up but I have not found what I need with pictures. Sorry if I asked this before.
I replaced my Aristo ECU with a Supra ECU so no longer need the resistor for the AC. I want to remove it today but I am nervous about where the 3 wires connected to the resistor should go after the resistor is removed. Can someone please make this super clear for me? I tried to just look up the diagram to reverse it but my link no longer has pictures. My resistor has 3 wires connected if I remember correctly.
Thanks Guys
I should be able to look this up but I have not found what I need with pictures. Sorry if I asked this before.
I replaced my Aristo ECU with a Supra ECU so no longer need the resistor for the AC. I want to remove it today but I am nervous about where the 3 wires connected to the resistor should go after the resistor is removed. Can someone please make this super clear for me? I tried to just look up the diagram to reverse it but my link no longer has pictures. My resistor has 3 wires connected if I remember correctly.
Thanks Guys
Last edited by Studiogeek; 01-20-16 at 10:37 AM.
01-24-16, 11:16 AM
#2997
map problem
I am having trouble and so i thought i would ask here. i have a map sensor 89420-24040 and when i have it installed the idle is very rough and giving it some gas does not help it. once i remove the sensor the car will idle just fine. is the map sensor bad? if so can someone help me locate one. thank you
